Ask a Car Mechanic and Get Answers to Your Car Questions ASAP
hi i am shannon i will help on this issue.
yes it sounds like you may have more than one problem
and you will need to do some testing
i can help with diagrams and testing
do you have test light?
do you have a volt/ohm meter
you will need both to fix this problem
so just post your answer when you are ready.
i mainley work in the evenings
but will be hear tomorror am.
gone noon to 5pm
you 94 should not have mush over 1.5 amps to start. and then drop to less than 0.10 amps. any thing under 0.20 amps is good. if it stays higher than 0.20 you will need to start removing fuses one at a time. whale looking at the amp meter. (remove ,look, reinstall ) one at a time. untill you see the meter fall below 0. 20amps
this will identified the bad circuit thats drawing the battery dead. over night.
but first remove the red or big wire from the back of the alternator .if that makes the draw go down . replace the alternator its bad
I'm not working on the vehicle right now. I'll start this afternoon, could you give me a list of the steps? I plan to disconnect the alt, disconnect all fusible links and remove all fuses from the fuse block, until I get down to no current draw with the key on. I'll reconnect one circuit at a time and check current draw or volt drop for each leg of the circuit as I reconnect them. Here are few question you could help with; 1. Does the alarm system need to be connected for the ECM to function? 2. Could the auto transmission control module or transmission solenoids be causing the problem? Neither the alarm or tran contol module are in the Haynes schematic I am using.
question 1: no 2: yes
please do the test in the other way. have every thing connected. then remove one thing at a time .and if no amp change . put it back on before going on to the next circuit. the reason for this is the computer will hold some circuits live after the key is turned off .you may even see this happen. when you reconnect a circuit.the amps may go up . but the computer will put it back to sleep after its wait time . thats is why i had you test the battery draw over 15 minuets. when you find a circuit that reduces the draw but it still not below 0.20. note the amp change but put it back on .. and kept going. its good to test feasible links but they kill a lot of circuits at once . and you need to find the one bad circuit.
just to remind you i ll be leveing for the track at 10.00 am in 3 hours . be back at around 5.00 pm.
I troubleshot the alternator Field Regulator circuit. There is 12.6 V on pin 2 directly from the battery and 12.3 V on pin 1 from the instrument cluster Battery indicator lamp. The Battery indicator behaves normally with switch on, it turns on until the engine is started then goes out. However, as the battery 12.6 volts drops down below 11 volts, the Battery indicator does not come on. Which tells me the alternator regulator circuit is not working. I conducted the Hack Saw Blade test, using a steel hacksaw blade held near the alternator when running and watch for magnetic field being developed. At idle, 500 rpm, I can see the blade moving towards the alternator then stop, looks like the field is on for 1 sec, then off for 1 sec. At 2000 rpm, the blade is not attracted to the alternator; witch tells me the alternator regulator circuit is not developing the field. Replaced the Remi alternator with a new Duralast 18420. Same symptoms, no 13-14 volts from alternator, hacksaw blade test the same. Any suggestions?