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Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be more than happy to assist you.
Hi, I'm Rich
Hello Rich. I would like to start off by checking two fuses. Give one min to load up the location of them
I can give you the pinout of my dlc connector pins 2,3,4,5,7
and pins 9,11,12,16
Yes I can get you that info also.
I can give you the fuse locations if you want
the interior fuse for the DLC is #2
Ok you have already check #2
Do you have a volt meter or test light?
I think that I have checked that fuse already yes
I do have volt meter and test light
ok good. Turn the key on ground the test light lead to a clean metal surface, make sure it works, and test slot 16 at the DLC connector. Does the test lamp light?
ok i will look
No problem take your time.
I have to step away for about 5 min. I will be right back
I am back
I'm not getting any congenuity anywhere do I have to have to key on?
Yes the key does need to be on
I have grounded my test light on metal petal and probe light to all available pins and I got no congenuity
it's funny because I have gotten continuity in the past
I checked the 10 amp fuse for the dlc and replaced it
it was ok and I did that before i tested for continuity
Then lets do this. Go to Fuse #2, ground the test light, Turn the key ON, And touch the test light to the little metal tabs on the fuse. Does the test lamp light up at both metal tabs on the fuse.
I'm not sure how you can insert the fuse into its socket and test the two tabs, i did test the fuse itself
i dropped the little 10 am
I dropped the little 10 amp fuse and replaced it with the larger american size
Ok give me one min
With the fuse still installed you will two metal tabs. You will want to touch the test light to each tab and have the test light lead grounded to a clean metal surface. Test needs to be done with the key ON.
Used two paper clips no conginuity
I've got to go in about 5 minutes
that's what happens when your granddaughter has to get to dance class
Ok if you want we can keep going later on. I will be on for atleast 6 more hours.
Ok, thanks Matt
When you have a chance go to the under hood fuse box and check this fuse. See if it is blown. If it is not then check to see if it has power with the test light.
I dropped two ten amp fuses under the fuse box for the dlc then had to buy some more fuses
Am I still connected?
Matt are you there?
Matt J I have returned and would like to go over what I should do next.
where are you?
Matt I received the diagram of the engine compartment fuse box and I check the 30 amp fuse that you had circles in red. It was good.
I have the same diagram in my owner's manual which describes the fuse as battery main
Matt I haven't solved the problem yet, please help me to do that.
I need to know why I don't have power to the dlc?
Matt J please give me some more help we haven't solve the problem yet
Sorry I was lock into another question
And the system just told me 5 min ago you responded back.
Hello hello hello
Did you have power at the fuse?
but why not?
that may be the problem
I looked at the 15 amp fuse for the ecm and it was good
I am going to look at the interior fuse F13 ecm, tcm, vss I think I have looked that before, but I'm not sure
When you tested the fuse under the hood, did you hook the volt meter lead uo to the battery negitive post? And did you make sure the test light did work.
Not volt meter lead, Test light lead
The two fuses I had you check are the only ones the get power to the DLC
F13 is ok
What was the other fuse that you asked me to check
Fuse #2 in the fuse block on the passenger side fuse box
I check the battery main fuse the one you had circled and it was good. So both fuses that you asked to check were both good
Did you make sure the test light works?
There must be one of the leads to the DLC that is not connected. What lead would that be
Yes in fact i also used a volt meter
for a continuity check
Take the volt meter, Touch the read lead to slot 16 at the DLC and ground the other end to a clean metal surface. What is the voltage. Test must be done with the Key ON
ok will check
still no continuity
somewhere I have a pinout diagram for that dlc, I looking for it
pin 2 J1 850
pin 2 J1850 Bus+
Try this turn the key on, touch the red lead of the volt meter to Slot 16 and the Black Lead to Slot 5
#5 pos and 16 neg 14vdc
so you do have voltage?
I'm not very good at this I may have not turned the engine on on one of our tests (a little alliteration)
I had the polarity wrong
sorry about that
I thought something was not right. Give me a few min to pull up the test info again and go over everything since now we know there is power and ground at the DLC
the pin out I have is pin2 j1850 bus+, 4 Cgnd, 5 Sgnd, 6 CAN high, 7 K-LINE ISO 9141-2 and ISO/Dis 14230-4, 10 J1850 Bus -
The next test I would like you to do is, Turn the Key ON, take the Volt Meter, touch the red lead to Slot 2 and the black lead to Stol 5. What is the Voltage?
14 CAN Low ISO-9141-2 and ISO 14230-4, 15 ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4, 15 ISO 9141-2 TX/RX, 16 +12v Battery Power
The test procedure show everything I will need to assist you to find the cause.
I have pins 2,3,4,5,7 top and 9,11,12,16 bottom
ok, sounds good
The next test I would like you to do is, Turn the Key ON, take the Volt Meter, touch the red lead to Slot 16 and the black lead to Slot 2. What is the Voltage?
Ok it looks like you have a short in the Serial Data Class II wire from slot 2 to the ECM. Now you will have to follow the Purple wire from slot 2 all the way to the ECM on the passenger side of the dash. Some where along the wire you will find where it is rubbed open and touching metal or pinched.
I will look at that just stay with me a minute
anyway I won't delay you good job, thanks
Far as what it would cost to fix the problem or just what you spent on here.
On a side note you are actually only 30 to 45 min away from me. I live in St Louis