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I had wondered this...
yesterday, found this:
which suggested I remove the 5amp fuse (or at least set up a kill switch for it). I tried, and nothing changed.
When I asked the mechanic who is familiar with the car but NOT familiar with Land Rovers in general - he did the repair when we needed to replace the damaged controller with a refurbished one - he suggested NOT to try running the car without one or more of the ABS-related fuses or relays, because "something could overheat or melt again...
What does the 5amp fuse cover, and what does the 30amp fuse cover?
I'm not a mechanic, so I wondered if the 5amp is for something piddly like the sensors and perhaps the 30amp covers something hungrier like the pump. And I wondered if maybe removing the 5amp fuse disables ABS/TC just fine when ABS is not on the fritz, but the 30amp would need removing when the ABS IS on the fritz.
I am hoping someone can confidently reassure me that I won't harm anything by trying to run my rig without the 30amp fuse in place. (And perhaps, what would happen if I ran it without the ABS relay? It is already running without the EAS relay - has been since I bought it...)
can you tell me if there is a word missing?
"Removing the 30 amp fuse disables the and system"
I just want to be clear on what it disables...
Removed 30amp fuse.
Still get fault message for ABS, then fault message for traction control. Then comes message for fuse 17 blown. Car still handles and brakes fine. But once fuse 17 (under passenger seat) blows, have to replace it in order to be able to shift out of park and try again. (And I think it has no brake lights until fuse replaced...)
Removed 30amp fuse AND ABS Relay.
Same thing happens.
So... If system is disabled, how am I getting faults and, if system disabled, why would it blow fuse 17 (which is for brakelight switch)?
will be checking switch after work.
will definitely get back to you and am very appreciative!!!
Unfortunately, can't really disconnect the brake light switch to test the fuse; the car won't shift out of park without the brake light switch connected, so I can't try to drive and then brake, which is when the fuse typically blows...
I have to order a new brake light switch and brake light bulbs to see if the current ones are the culprit(s).
I am not certain of everything fuse 17 controls, but I have seen at least one thread (on JustAnswer, re: a RR SE 98 and fuse #17) that mentions that it controls hvac and air suspension switches.
Any final thoughts?
Thanks for your help!
Waiting for new brake light switch and bulbs to see whether the current ones are to blame for blowing fuse 17.
Otherwise, it will be a hunt for a short. As our mechanic disabled (cut out) all the aftermarket wiring months ago, and it behaved solidly for a good while, we are perplexed. I am just happy to have (seemingly) removed the ABS pump/accumulator from the equation by disabling it, and now we can focus on what keeps blowing the fuse. It would have been awful to have invested in new pump/accumulator only to find the fuse keeps blowing...