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Hey you still there?
yes I am.
let me check tsb one this on sec
When this happins does the clicking sound pause?
or is that still normal?
The clicking is normal. Just signaling in the oposite direction
When you signal a roght turn it works fine. When you signal a left turn the right indicator activates. Press the hazard button the left indicator activates.
You still there?
New expert here, my name is Mark.
The problem you are having is being caused by a bad multi function switch on the steering column. This is the turn signal lever and the switch it is attached to.
Once you remove the covers from around the top of the column, the switch is easily replaced.
Thanks for your answer. I will go ahead and order the switch. I will let you know if this solved the problem.
I live in the caribbean and it will take a few days to get the switch out of Miami. Despite this I will accept your answer in order to avoid delay in you getting credit for your time.
My name isXXXXX can help you trace, diagnose and repair your vehicle instead of guessing and throwing expensive parts at your vehicle one at a time.
Let me know if you want some help.
I am going to list a few wiring diagrams that are specifically for your 2000 Ram 2500 Truck. I am presenting these diagrams for you in Adobe PDF File Format for your convenience and printing ability, so you can take them right out to the truck when we get into the process of testing circuits with a 12 volt test light. I hope you have a test light??? I will be adding links to the posts as I find them. They are not easy to convert for your viewing and use.
# XXXXX Rear Tail Lights & Stop Circuits
# XXXXX Right Rear Tail Lights & Stop Circuits
# XXXXX Right Park & Turn Signal Circuit
# XXXXX Left Park & Turn Signal Circuit
# XXXXX Front Fender Lamps
# XXXXX Flasher Circuit
So this is a start at knowing how your truck is wired and some of the components involved. Take a close LOOK at #7 Combination Flasher
Thanks Dale. Will have technician go thruyour recommendation. This may take a few days. I have already replaced the multifunction switch. However I notice that when the truck is driving un a rough road the headlights keep blinking which tells me there is a loose connection somewhere. If you toch the harness it behaves differently after doing so.
This is so frustrating with the mechanic tell me the module is faultly and need to pay $600.00 to program a new one.
I read your answer again. We do have a test lamp. I am not a technician and the diagram does not mean a whole lot to me. However, we will go thru it together with the local technician until we resolve the problem.
Thanks for replying Derick and providing me the information. I jumped into your question and issue after you had accepted the information that "Mark" had provided where he told you to replace the multi-function switch. I did that as a courtesy and as luck would have it, Mark got paid to give you erroneous advice. AND THAT IS OK DERICK. I am not here "trying to help folks" just for the $$ but it does make me wonder about things from time to time.
Anyway let's not be concerned with how that worked out. Let's try to help you resolve the issue. I realize you have limited diagnostic, tools and knowledge to figure this one out , but I will assure you that if you end up taking your vehicle to a technician to reach a positive diagnosis, He or She will really appreciate the wiring diagrams that I have pulled out of the database. BE SURE AND OPEN EACH ONE AND PRINT THEM OFF, so you and/or who ever ends up getting to the bottom of the problem will have those schematics to work with. Unless you are the WIZARD of OZ, :-) you will need the schematics and electrical diagrams to trace out the system and figure out what is going on.
I DO NOT MIND CONTINUING TO HELP YOU if you can relate to my instructions and are able to carry out my instructions. I am a person that just enjoys sharing 40+ years of knowledge with others to help them. Especially some of the customers that have one vehicle, a family and rely on their vehicle to get them where they need to go. Many people these days cannot afford to pay $ 75.00 - $ 125.00 an hour shop labor to try and get their vehicle running properly. I would much rather give them the information, IF THEY ARE WILLING AND ABLE TO TRY AND REPAIR THE VEHICLE THEMSELVES. The money should go for the essentials of life "like baby formula" not paying someone to guess at what may or may not be wrong with the vehicle.
I hope you understand and appreciate what my thoughts are. Just let me know what you need me to do from here and I will be more than happy to try and help you resolve the issue.
Have a Great and Prosperous New Year,
PS- IF YOU HAVE A HONEST, LOCAL TECHNICIAN, TREAT HIM OR HER WITH RESPECT! Because it is not like the old days where every man felt compelled to be able to repair his vehicle to retain his masculinity. These vehicles today are so very complicated that NO ONE Person can possibly know it all. That is why we are here and try to work together as a group of experts to pool the knowledge and help resolve the issues that are presented to all of us.
In the caribbean it can sometimes take a week or two to get parts. I did not want Mark to feel I was withholding his payment, hence I paid him thinking that he had it right.
The other problem I am having is that the local technicians are clueless as how to resolve the problem and they never tell you the do not know. You will eventually notice how they try to avoid you and refuse to return your calls.
I do appreciate your help and will work with a technician and your schematics to resolve this. It will take a few days or more but rest assured that as soon as it is resolved you will be paid.
Don't worry about paying me. Just let me know what I can do to help you. I can't fly to the Caribbean to diagnose and repair your vehicle, although I have had a couple of customers on older model, more of the Classic nature offer to fly me to Florida, put me in a nice hotel, provide a car for me, pay for any and all incidentals and then pay me by the hour at whatever price per hour I set just to get me to LOOK and ADVISE them on there automobile. It was quite an honor to be offered but I declined and tried to help them on line as much as possible and then advise them how to find and retain a good automotive technician.
I would think that there would be some pretty smart technicians in Caribbean, just because of where it is. If you want, you can use me as a second opinion technician. As far as they are concerned they do not know who or what I am " LET THEM KNOW THAT YOU HAVE AN AUTOMOTIVE DIAGNOSTIC SPECIALIST/CONSULTANT WITH OVER 40+ YEARS OF EXPERIENCE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO RUN THEIR DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION BY ONCE THEY TELL YOU HOW MUCH AND WHY" That should give you one leg up on them so do not think you are not just coming in blind and set the stage for you to get some honest answers. That way they tend not to try to take advantage of you. The one that gets me are the nice people that "IN ALL GOOD FAITH PAY A TECHNICIAN & GET SCREWED ANYWAY" That really irks me, but then again, that is just the way most of the people in my line of work operate. That is why everybody likes us so much :-)
I am here if you need me.
PS-Derrick, I have spent my entire adult life teaching, training, managing and arbitrating automotive issues and trying to bring some honor and integrity to the automotive technological industry as a whole. They want me to do a Radio show. What do you think?
I just thought I would touch base and see how things are going with 2007 Ram 2500 turn signal problem. I hope someone has stepped up to the plate and helped you find the source of the problem.
If I can help, just let me know.
Actually Dale, Sorry for not geting back to you before. I had to travel overseas and was out of touch as far as the internet goes. The technician promised to come at 3:00 pm on monday and did not show up. However I I beleive I found the problem myself. The connecter that plugs into the multifuction switch is faulty. The wires into the connector fit loosely.
Is it possible to order a connector and reattach the wires or do I need to order the entire harness? And what is the correct name.
Do you have the old multifunction switch? If you do you could cut the plug off of the old switch and then do "WHAT I CALL A CLEAN REWIRIE" so that it is just as good as new. You would want to leave yourself 4-6" of the pigtail (the wires coming out of the plug) to work with.
If you think that is a viable option, let me know and I will walk you through the proper way to splice the old connector into the new harness.
Just let me know.
I do have the old multifuction switch. However, If I understand you correctly, I am not sure this would work. You can desribe it as a male connector fitting into a female connector. The one coming from the multifuction switch being female. I would there fore need a male connector.
NB. I am confident this is the problem. I am currently driving the vehicle with out the plastic cover behind the steering wheel where the hazard switch is located. Last night It started acting up and i just pushed the wires in a bit and there was not problem for the rest of the evening.
It sounds to me like to have isolated the area of the problem. There is obviously a problem with the multi-function switch or the associate wiring that is attached to it. It could be a bad switch, or you may have damaged it in some way when you installed it. When you pushed the wire and the problem stopped that tells me there is an intermittent open to close problem with one of the connections that are associated with the switch. IF YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING IT and you think it is the gang connector at the bottom of the column you could splice in the old connector and or eliminate the connector altogether. I have done this in the past when a new connector was not available. I am going to give you the professional way to do this and then you can decide whether to do it or not. Whether you use this procedure to splice in the old connector on one side or just cut out the connector on both sides you must follow this procedure exactly in order to make a good, clean connection .
When you cut the harness you do not cut it straight across. I usually spread the cut over a 2 - 4" section of wire. I cut the wires at different places on the harness so everything is not being reconnected at the exact same place. You also need to check to make sure the wire color coding is the same on both sides of the plug connector. Cut the harness ( in different places as I have told you) strip back the ends of each wire about 3/4" on each end using a good pair of wire strippers. Purchase ( at Radio Shack) enough Heat Shrink Tubing of the proper size. Slide the heat shrink tubing far enough up or down the harness so it does not get hot when you are soldering. Twists the wire ends together (one wire at a time) and try not to have any loose ends sticking out. Use a medium size solder with a rosin core and either a pin point solder gun or iron and carefully flow the solder at the connection. HEAT THE WIRE FIRST AND THEN APPLY THE SOLDER TO THE WIRE-NOT TO THE TIP OF THE SOLDERING IRON. Let it cool and clip off any sharp points that may be sticking out with a pair of side cutters and then slide the heat shrink tube over the splice so it covers both ends. Use a lighter, barbecue lighter or a small hand propane torch (wHICH IS WHAT i USE) to carefully heat the heat shrink tube until it shrinks and seals the splice. Repeat the process at the different places on the harness with the different color coded wires. When all the wires are connected use a good brand (3-M Preferably) of electricians tape and wrap the splice very tight in a spiral way from one end to the other. This is hard to explain to you how to do but I have done it so many times that it is quite easy for me at this point and it really comes out with a nice clean splice.
I WOULD ONLY DO THIS IF I KNEW FOR SURE THAT THE PROBLEM WAS IN THE PLUG CONTACTS. USUALLY WIGGILING OR TWISTING A BAD PULG CONNECTION WILL OPEN AND CLOSE (LIGHTS OPERATE-NON OPERATE OR YOUR MIGHT SAY PROBLEM COMES AND THEN GOES AWAY AS YOU MANIPULATE THE PLUG.
If have confused you it certainly was not intentional. It is not unusual because of mass production for a gang plug to cause this open to close problem. You should be able to tell by manipulating the harness plug as to whether the problem is in the plug or not.
I do understand the proceedure you outlined. However I would only resort to this if I am not able to purchase the connector. I am not sure where the other end leads to. If it leads to another connector, then I would purchase the harness.
Can you please help with the correct name for a start?
Thanks for the reply Derrick,
What is it that you want the correct name for?
I not clear on what you want?
To think of it, I should not even be asking you that question. It is apparent that I need to contact a sales person and tell them I need the connector that links the multifuction switch to the harness etc. Hopefully they would be able help me from there.
PS. A friend of mind promised to stop by tomorrow to see if we can solve this problem one way or the other. Will keep you posted.
It is OK Derrick,
I just did not know what part you were referring to. I do a great deal of parts research. I will look and see if I can tell through the diagrams how much of the harness you would have to replace to get the plug. I ran into this on my John Deere D 118 Rider and they wanted to sell me the whole harness so I just eliminated the plug. The way I look at it, is the plugs are just there to make it easy for the manufacturer to assemble the vehicle. But how many times are you going to want to unplug the multifunction harness. So it the plug is bad, it is not big deal to just do the modification I described to you. On the other hand sometimes people will pay $(NNN) NNN-NNNNjust to keep a vehicle factory original and I guess I understand that.
I will take a look and see what I can find for you.
Have a good one bud.
PS- Is this the gang plug you are talking about ?
These models are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS by disconnecting the battery negative cable(s) and allowing at least two minutes for the air bag capacitor to discharge.
Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
If equipped with a tilt column, remove the tilt lever (turn CCW).
Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.
Remove the mounting screws which require a tamper-proof Torx® bit.
Gently pull the switch away from the steering column.
To disconnect the wiring, remove the screw which secures the connector to the switch.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
The plug in your image carries quite a few wires. The one on the Dodge has about 4 to 5 wires only.
Even if we eleiminate the connector their are no wires coming out of the multifuntion switch. In other words there is a plug on the MFS which the connector fitts directly into.
Once my friend shows up we will be using the information you supplied to try and resolve this.
Very well Derrick,
I will just stand by for further instructions and/or questions.