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hi and welcome. were is the ticking coming from? i.e. top,bottom of engine ,inside the car
This is probably the hydraulic valve lifters they are starving for oil. The problem is sludging. the sump that sucks the oil from the pan is clogged. The only fix is to remove and clean the oil pan and replace the sump. If you have any further questions let me know.
if you go to eeuroparts.com put in your vehicle and then go to "engine mechanical".This will bring up a diagram of engine it is #82 on the list of parts down the bottom of the picture near the oil pan.I tried uploading picture myself but didn't work.if you need further help let me know.
yes the rest will not be far behind.
I heard that some people drill larger holes on the oil pickup tube mesh so the tube doesn't clog as easily. What's your opinion on this procedure?
Also, will just cleaning instead of replacing the oil pickup tube work? Since the part is a special order and will take time to get at eeuroparts.com
The holes are that small for a reason if something gets threw the mesh and gets into the engine then it could destroy or clog it. I don't recommend this. If eeuro parts cant get it the saab dealer may have it in stock I would check with them. You can clean it but if you miss something then you may be back were you started.For the price of the part it is not worth cleaning.
ok let me know.
I am having trouble removing the oil pan. I removed all visible bolts, but the pan won't come loose. the pan by the right front wheel feels loose, but the pan by the transmission still feels like a bolt is holding it.
you need to surport the engine on top and drop the subframe.
the bolts go all the way around the pan there is a shield cover for the transmission .sorry this got omitted from my last post
Our transmission doesn't have a shield cover. The oil pan is complete.
Also, our engine was replaced with an engine that came from a manuel transmission. Do you have a picture of the oil pan? I think our oil pan might be different than the original.
Here is a picture of the oil pan by the transmission:
the picture you sent is to close here is a picture of oil pan
Yeah, our pan is different. Maybe these pictures are better :
This part of the pan feels stuck. In your diagram there is a transmission cover in its place.
hi have a couple of 95's here 5spd and auto let me get them on the lift and compare maybe tomorrow before I can get back to you
I just got done looking at both cars and the pan is the same,this is a 4cyclinder correct? and you said it came out of another car what model?
this could be a pan from an early 9000 but i am not sure .I will opt out maybe another expert can help. don not reply to this post.
I don't know if Jeff is still helping you but there is always some metal in in pan thats why they have a magnet. The pan is usually caked with grit but since you have had yours replaced it may not be.doesn't take much to reduce flow of oil through that strainer.just for your own info that oil pan is out of 95 5spd 2004 and up.
tube all the the same till 2009.
I replaced the pickup tube and o-ring, started it, but the noise is still there.
The oil pan was thoroughly cleaned. I also put new oil and oil filter.
When the car started making noise, it was from one day to another. It wasn't a gradual change.
I also replaced the oil pickup tube and o-ring because Brian advised me to.
After I had started the car with the new pickup tube, I uncovered the valve cover and found very little oil. Is there any device the sends the oil to the lifters and cams that perhaps may not be working properly?
How do I test the oil pressure? Do I need to buy a gauge?
where is the oil pressure switch located?
The oil pressure was 22psi at 1000rpm and 40psi at 2000rpm. The car was in nuetral at normal operating temperature while pressure was read.
When I had the oil pan off before, I think it was the rod bearing that made noise when I tried moving it side to side.
Can lifters go bad in one day? The car sounded fine one day and the next day the engine was loud.
Also, how do I tell if a lifter is bad or good?
I do not have the $350 to buy the lifters now, but I will hit the "accept answer" for helping me. Thank you for your help.
You do not have to answer my last question, but will anything happen to the car if I keep driving it with the ticking lifters?
How many were bad when you checked them?? Also how were the chain and rails when you removed the cams?...jeffrey590
All but one or two lifters were bad. The chain and rails looked ok.
Before on Sunday May 23, you said I had to drive the car after installing the new lifters for the noise to go away, how long should I do this for?
I drove the car 425 miles today at 65-70mph. The noise is still the same. Do you think it may still be the bearings?
Anyways, tommorow I will drop the pan to check it.
Once, I have taken off the oil pan, what do i do next?
Also, what kind of damage do i look for?
How do I order new bearings? Do I need to know bearing size?
The rod bearings look to be worn more on the outside of the "C-ring" than the middle. I will replace these.
I took off the valve cover and checked the lifters. They are not as hard as when i purchased them.
Before, I had also ordered another set of lifters, and they went soft after installation and starting the car, just like this second set.
What could be causing this? Could it be the rod bearings? Or is this normal?
When ordering plastigage, is one strip enough?
Should I order .004-.009 , .001-.003 , .002-.006? what size?
I changed the rod bearings. They were within specs according to the plastigage. The engine makes ticking noise. The cam followers were installed facing the black bolts. The black bolts were installed toward the spark plugs.
Anything else that could be causing the noise?