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To help car dude out....
The 1.3L is NOT an interference motor. I am in agreement with you that the cam gear was put on wrong position.
I have a known good 1.3L head in my garage right now and 2 running Swift's with the 1.3L in my driveway. I can take photos for you and should be able to guide you through this, showing you the belt alignment marks and the cam dowel position.
One thing to check beforehand, please make sure the keyway did not fall out of the crank shaft when the cog was removed or replaced.
Here in photo #1 I've aligned the timing mark shown by the screwdriver:
In photo #2, the cam dowel for the cam gear should be roughly in the 10-11 o'clock position.....again pointed out with the screwdriver:
In the last photo, the "extra" timing mark points to roughly the 4-5 o'clock position and the "extra" dowel hole should pretty much point straight down:
There is a combination of 4 positions this can be in and it will only run in one. The big thing will be making sure the cam dowel is in the correct position. I believe the cam gear is installed on the wrong hole and the engine won't run with either timing mark that way.
As previously stated, please make sure that the crank keyway is still holding the crank cog.
Let me know how you make out and we can go from there.
Yes they used different cam gears over the years. I believe my 95 has the "I" and "E" on the cam gear, but I'm not prepared to pull the motor apart yet to take photos.
The key with the photos, is to make sure the cam dowel is in the right position in relation to the upper timing mark. If the dowel is in a different position, then the cam is rotated in the wrong spot.......meaning no matter how you try to line up the belt outer timing mark with the inside cover, it will always be off.
Suzuki pretty much used universal cam gears for the SOHC and DOHC 1.3 which is why you will see the I and E stamped.
Ok.....i couldn't resist......
I went and pulled my running motor cover off. Yes the cam gear is different as expected, BUT, mine only has 1 hole for the dowel and it points straight down.....which is different then the pic I provided. My timing belt looks like new too! hahahha
Here is how we are going to have to do it......I'm not giving up on you as I want your car running:
1: Verify for CERTAIN the cam dowel and crank keyway are still in place. If they are not, we are chasing our tail. If those are good.....
2. On the old core motor, if the belt is still on it, rotate the engine until the belt timing marks line up to their respective marks. Now look at the cam dowel. Which position is it in? Verify if it is in the same position as the motor in the car. If not, adjust as needed.
Lastly, if the first 2 don't get it running:
3. As I stated you have a 1 in 4 shot of timing it correctly. If you have tried both timing marks and neither work in ONE cam dowel position, pop the cam gear off, rotate it to the next dowel position and try the timing marks.
Since the motor is non-interference and you have good compression, I would not worry about a valve kissing a piston, the damage would have been done already when the belt was previously put on. Now with it being out of time and I don't know how long it has been cranked, I would advise removing the spark plugs to allow them to dry while you make any adjustments. It is probably flooded so if you do get the timing marks right, it may take an excessive amount of cranking to clear it out and to get it to fire. It could fool you into thinking the timing marks are still off. At least with dry plugs, you won't be unsure if the car isn't starting due to the timing being off or fuel soaked plugs.
One of these 3 should get it running. If by some reason it doesn't, report back and we can bang our heads against the wall some more.
The photo of my head is not going to help in this scenario. I knew the cogs were different, but I thought the dowel position was constant. Please follow my steps posted after that.
Like I said, FIRST compare the cam dowel on the core motor to the one in the car with the belt marks lined up. Make sure the CAM DOWEL POSITION matches, If that can't be done due to the core motor missing parts, or being disassembled, then the LAST resort is running through the 4 positions (2 belt alignment marks per dowel spot). You obviously know the 2 outer timing belt marks are NOT working, so you will have to undo the bolt, remove the cam cog and place it in the other dowel hole.
Do pull the spark plugs as they are probably drenched and the car will probably not fire off right away.......which is what you need it to do in this case to verify the cam timing is correct.
You can't skip steps at this point or you could be running around in circles.
Like I said, follow the above in order to make sure the cam gear is on the camshaft in the right position.