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1996 Lincoln is pulling hard LEFT when braking.
It gets worse as brakes heat-up.
Already Tried: Replaced Pads (semi-metallic), Replaced Rotors, Replaced RIGHT Pads (with ceramic(see below)), Replaced Right Rotor, Replaced RIGHT Caliper. Note - When I replaced Right Rotor (1st time) I screwed up & put Right brake pad on backwards (!) (it was dark) (outer pad only), so I replaced right pads again, and right rotor again (!!) (pad was slightly damaged, so was rotor -- metal to metal for a little bit...). Right pads are now ceramic, left are semi-metallic. Pulling Hard left, gets worse as brakes heat-up. While my LEFT pads need changed to ceramic, and my Left Rotor probably is OK, WHAT ELSE could it be, if doing the Left pads over to Ceramic doesn't fix it? What is this proportioning valve? How likely is a partially clogged right brake line, if this gets worse as brakes heat-up? To me, I would bet it's the Ceramic Right & Semi-metallic Left (pads) that are causing this. Still, I want to be sure -- I'm tired of trying to get the jack out from under the car, after letting it down, the air shocks "pin" the jack under the jack-point (!!!)
If you want your car to brake straight, Always replace with exact same type pads on both sides. As far as one side dragging, and wearing out, and heating up, that is another problem. When replacing front pads, you should crack open the bleeder before pushing pads back. If you have already pushed pads back without opening bleeder, you will now need to have your ABS system electronically bleed with a scanner to equalize the pressure in the ABS system. A porportioning valve separates the front from the back brakes to hold brake pressure in case one loses pressure. It has other functions but that is the most important one. If you had rear drum brakes it would hold off pressure from the front until the rear brakes were engaged to obtain even braking porportionally which is how it got it's name. I hope this information has helped you.
Also for your information, before raising the vehicle you must turn off the switch in the trunk that operates your air shocks. Failure to do this could result in damage to your level ride control and air shocks. After lowering the vehicle you can turn the switch back on. All this information is only an effort to solve your problem. Most people, even some very competent mechanics don't know the information that has taken me years to aquire.
OK, now BOTH sides are NEW Calipers, with Ceramic pads.
It STILL Pulls HARD LEFT -- the harder I step on the brake, the harder it turns.
The steering wheel twists left, and the car dives left, and when I release,
the wheel releases, and the car stops diving left, and 'offsets' a little to the right.
Any ideas? Brake line, from caliper to metal tubing?
ABS sensors, or something?
OK, now I've got ceramic pads and new calipers and rotors on BOTH sides.
SAME problem. Pulls Hard left.
The harder I step on the brake, the more it pulls -- in fact it 'dives' under hard braking,
and the steering wheels twists left.
When I release, steering wheel releases, and the car 'straightens up' some, quickly & with a sort of lurch to the right.
have your left calper checked.. if you've replaced pads and rotors the whole way around..and the problem is infact only in braking.. and pulling left.. i recommend the left caliper, sounds like the piston is staying out
LEFT caliper is NEW.
Replaced it yesterday, when putting the new ceramic pads on.