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Do you have any warning lights showing in instrument cluster? Like - a check engine light or otherwise?
No lights appear at the moment. Previously had trans temp but no longer appears but took car to Subaru dealer and they tell me what they can read is Transmission Torque
faulty or something like that. I thought it might be torque converter so bought brand new original in New York , installed it and now its even worse the fault I am about ready to put a bomb on it.
Is it possible you can retrieve the code? Or perhaps it was written down previously? I feel your problem was likely not diagnosed thoroughly. You and the mechanic(s) may have all agreed, the car does not perform well and it feels like a transmission problem. However, any system of your car that has computer control, DTC output, (the ability to report trouble codes) NO MATTER what system it is, Engine, ABS, SRS and so on - those codes (if present) need to be addressed. What if you have a faulty transmission input/output sensor providing corrupt data to the PCM? (pcm = powertrain control module) If so, it's possible the transmission will not perform correctly. Even engine performance may be effected. Conversely, if the transmission has a mechanical defect, you do of course have to consider the quality of the rebuilder. Do you know if the rebuilder has good references? Please let me know if you can accurately post the code here - even if the light is now off. If you have no area rebuilders that are quality - you may be better off finding a remanufactured transmission, supplied through a large company that offers a warranty. Call around. Some shops work with companies that supply rebuilt engines and transmissions. And yes, they should carry a warranty if a defect occurs. Even a GOOD USED transmission would be better - say from a low mileage "wrecked" car of same year/year/make/model. Nothing is worse than a poorly refurbished automotive part, be it an engine, transmission or distributor for that matter. All will perform poorly and drive you nuts and give you an unreliable vehicle. I hope this helps you.
I am afraid we are talking about a 3rd world country. Subaru has never been a popular car so parts have to be ordered from the States. There is no such thing as a rebuilt transmission or one out of a junk yard, so after spending over 3,ooo in parts I need to fix this one as this God forsaken country forbids import of remanufactured parts. I dony have any codes present have read with Subaru equipment and with OBDII equipment and the only code present was with the Subaru equipment that read Torque in Transmission fault. Pse help I am going crazy.
I feel terrible for your situation. And, I can appreciate that you're frustrated. I can offer the following. Your problem is complicated based on many factors. Answer all questions below so I can decide where I'm taking this. Please answer like this:
1) yes OR no
2) yes OR no -and so on. Add any useful information next to answer, if needed. Keep answer/info separate by #1 and 2 and so on. >>
1) Does engine START WELL?
2) Does engine RUN WELL?
3) If engine STALLS in gear sitting STILL, what about as you DRIVE on road?
4) Does the engine ever Stall or Stop in Drive - while your foot is pressing down accelerator and you're doing at least 25 MPH/40KPH?
5) Does the transmission shift into DRIVE smoothly when your foot is on BRAKE. Or, does it JERK or SLAM into gear and/or make a loud noise?
5) Does the transmission shift well while DRIVING?
7) Does outside air temperature or rain (moisture) make this problem any different?
Let me know!
2.- yes but revs too high when put into shift
3.-if driving I cannot apply break hard as it will stall, have to drive with both feet
5.-it kind of slams a bit
Only started car yesterday after being stopped for a while and it took a while for transmission to respond
I feel you do not have a transmission problem at all. I feel you likely - used to.
Everything we've gone over suggests your engine has a LARGE vacuum leak or an IDLE air control circuit failure. Or a TB defect. If there are no lights or codes to go from now - we can run some basic manual testing.
Are you so inclined to test for a vacuum leak? One thing you need to look at right up front is 1) Air cleaner box to engine. Start where air cleaner is and follow all rubber/plastic piping (intake tubes) until you reach engine TB (throttle body) Are any ajar? Loose clamps? Are any intake tubes torn or holed in anyway? 2) Check the Vacuum line that runs from intake manifold TO power BRAKE booster. Is it leak free and secured?
Try this test. Start and run engine until warm. Will it idle OK in PARK with your feet off gas and brake pedal? If so, press brake pedal down firmly and hold. Does engine RPM change or does engine stall?
Lastly, Do you know where the MAF sensor is and what it looks like? (maf = mass airflow sensor)