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Ask Mike V. Your Own Question
Mike V.
Mike V., Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 23633
Experience:  25 years of experience, Certified Subaru Technician and Nissan factory trained.
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my car wont start not getting any fire

Customer Question

my car wont start not getting any fire
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Mike V. replied 7 years ago.
HiCustomer Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer. The other Experts and I are working on your answer. By the way, it would help us to know:
-What year is your Car?
-What make and model is your Car?
-How many miles are on your Car?
-What type of engine is in your Car?
-What have you already tried?

Thank you again for trusting us with your problem. Please reply as soon as possible so that we can finish answering your question.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

1986 Oldsmobile regency 98 3.8

Already Tried:
ive checked my fuel pump its pumping
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
my car is a 1986 oldsmobile regency has a rebuilt 3.8 engine with about 40.000 far i have checked my fuel pump and its working fine
Expert:  Mike V. replied 7 years ago.
OK. This is normally a problem with the pickup coil or the ingnition module located in the distributor.Here is some info for testing.You will need a volt meter.Hope it helps!Thanks

See Figures 2 and 3

If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega. If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.
Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.

These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

  1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
  2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
  3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.
Click image to see an enlarged view

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