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Derrick
Derrick, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 923
Experience:  A.S.-Automotive Analysis A6-Electrical A8/L1-Engine Performance Cert., CA Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge Tech
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My 2001 chrysler sebring 2.7l engine. a.

Customer Question

my 2001 chrysler sebring 2.7l engine. a. my battery keep dying but the machanic says that my alternator is good nothing is wrong. what else can cost my battery to die? also my fan by my radiator keep cutting off its not consistant thus costing my car to run hot. does anyone have any answers?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

Hi there,

First of all, with regards XXXXX XXXXX fan being inop, it is most likely the fan itself or the fan relay.

First check all of your fuses, but if they are ok:

WIth the engine running and AC on, try tapping on the fan motor with a hammer. If the fan comes on you have a bad fan, if not, you most likely have a bad fan relay, but you should check power/ground at the fan, here is the wiring diagram:

81556955

Next, with regards XXXXX XXXXX battery dying:

If your battery is ok and your alternator is ok, the only other cause is parasidic draw with the engine off.

Here is how to perform your IOD test (but do it at the negative ground jump post under the hood instead of the battery itself to make it easier).

  • Disconnect the battery negative cable.
  • Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
  • After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charging System for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.

    CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

  • Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
  •  

    I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions!

     

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    i'll make sure run this pass my machanic tomorrow im a woman, what u say make some sense but i cant fully understand im learning things as it goes along. but another question if a fuse isnt good can it cost a. the battery to die and b. car to run hot?
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    A blown fuse would keep the fan from coming on and therefore the car would overheat.

    It would not cause parasidic draw though.

     

    Take a look at this and talk to you mechanic and please feel free to ask if you have any more questions!

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    oh ok so the parasidic draw deals with my fan is coming on and it spins just it stops at time its just not consistant, also my battery dont die right away it take dayssss to die but it still die
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    No, these are two different problems.

    Your fan is not coming on for some reason (fan motor/relay/fuse).

    Your battery is dying most likely as a result of parasidic draw (amperage draw when the car is off), like leaving your lights on, but most likely a much smaller amount. Make sure you dont have any components plugged in like phone chargers or dome lights left on overnight.

    Anyways, those are your two issues you are having.

     

    Let me know if you have any more questions!

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    ok i'll talk to my machanic tomorrow and im a person that stand by the word if its resolved i'll surely leave a bonus. i'll read up on what u told me and enlighten my machanic.
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Sounds great, I will be looking forward to your reply.

     

    In the meantime, if you hav any more questions, feel free to ask!

     

    Thank you,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    the reason it took me so long to come back on is the fact that the machanic found out the problem the engine wires was hooked up wrong thus costin the alternator to not get power enough to charge up the car thus also costing the car to get hot because of the bad wirering
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Im glad you got it figured out!

     

    Thnaks,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.

    ok here is something u can help me with and if u can check my activities i pay just for a the right name of the part so im reliable. Ok here is the problem now. my car battery dont die anymore after takin it to the machanic nor did it run hot, but the water was bubbleing in the water tank and a lil hole, looks like its a normal suppose to be there hole on the water tank. Now remember its a 2001 chrysler sebring 2.7l engine so maybe u have a pic u can also show me of the water tank and if it does have a lil hole. So after i drive the water is boiling and the lil hole lets off smoke but still car didnt run hot. I got annoyed of the smoke coming from out my hood so i cover up the hole and thats where the problem started, costed my car to run hot a lil. After that happened i moved the cover from the little hole now the problem is my fan don't come on when i have the sensor hooked up to the coolant water outlet sensor but when i move the sensor out of it the fan spins normal, can u tell me what might be costin that.Also when i drive a little distance the water is still bubbleing and boiling but now the water is coming out at the bottom of my car and now my engine gets hotter. i dont know what might be wrong but please see if u can help me out. so lets go over it again

    1. fan wont come on when sensor is hooked up to the coolant water outlet

    2. water is coming out of the car at the bottom, like something is leaking

    3. seem like the car is running hot because the engine feels hotter than usual small distance.

    Thank you alot if u can help me out.

    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Well if your car is overheating, it will boil over and out of the overflow tank.

    If it is boiling over, you are overheating still.

    This is most likely as a result of the fan not working.

    Have you done some troubleshotting as to checking power and grounds?

     

    Thanks,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    i had a machanic check it out while checking out y my battery was dying and i drove it after it was done it wasnt overheating the water was just boiling my gage showed my temperture maybe 2 marks up from cool and a long way from hot and i drove a distance it didnt run hot it just had boiling water and steam coming tru a lil hole on the water tank someone suggested its missing antifree so the water is boiling, but now if i hook up my sensor to my coolant outlet aka gooseneck sensor my fan cuts off but when i remove the cable the fan comes back on. maybe u can explain that to me please, also if u have a pic of the actual water tank for the 2001 chrysler sebring so i can see if that little hole is normal that would help also. thanks a million later.
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Well if you have a hole in your system, the would cause a leak and eventually cause overheating.

    I will get a picture for you, but are you looking for a picture of the radiator or the overflow bottle?

     

    Thank you,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    i dont know whats it call but its where u put the water and coolant in on the 2001 its one place to put those stuff its a clear lookin jug with a cover i think its the radiator jug. so wha is the purpose of the sensor being pluged into the water outlet the place where the hose are hooked up to , and what might cost the fan to stop spinning when its hooked up
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Ok that is the overflow bottle, and the sensor is the coolant level sensor.

    Here is a picture:

    Is there a hole/crack in this somewhere?

    This is a pressurized unit and if there is a hole/crack as the fluid pressurizes it will leak out and overheat.

     

    Thank you,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    ok the diagram if u look between label 1 and label 2 in the back next to the bolting parts there is a lil item there not label thats what gives off steam , meaning as soon as my car stop u can hear it bubbleing and boiling but that little unlabel part gives off the steam what comes thur my hood
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Ok, well your cooling system is boiling over, that is normal when you are overheating. The reason you are overheating is most likely because your fan is not coming on. That is what we need to troubleshoot first.

     

    I will be back later with wiring diagrams.

     

    Thank you,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    when i pull out the sensor the fan comes on when i put the sensor back in the fan doesnt so i drive with the sensor unplugged. what can be the cost of that sort of problem and how do i solve this problem without spendin more money
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    If the car works fine with the level sensor unplugged, then when you plug it back in the fna stops working, I would be led to beleive you have a shorted sensor that brings down the fan when it is pluggged in.

     

    Exactly which sensor are you talking about?

     

    Thank you,

    Derrick

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr108/musicme_01/P1010068.jpg there u go its a pic of my old no good coolant water outlet the gold and blk top what is at that angle everytime i plug the plug into that the fan stops
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Oh ok!

     

    You have a failed bleeder housing. They go bad all the time on these engines.

     

    Just call your local Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge dealer's parts department and ask for it. They should have one in stock and they are relatively cheap.

     

    Just replace this and top off your coolant and you should be good to go. The new housing has a new sensor installed already.

     

    I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more quetsions!

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.

    do u have a pic of the bleeding housing isnt it the little top on the coolant outlet? if so i just got the whole thing brand new so please let me know if u mean the top of it. also someone told me its normal for the fan to not blow always and that is blow only when the computer sends a indication that the engine is gettin hot and need to be cool so the fan comes. But the whole coolant water outlet is brand new everything i just bought

    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    The bleeder housing is the entire assembly you had the picture of. Just buy a new one of those and you sould be good to go.

    The fan should only come on when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) tells it to. But the PCM receives the temp input from the failed sensor that you are replacing, so your problem will be taken care of.

     

    Let me know if you have any more questions!

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    wow im talkin about i just just bought that brand new one about a month back the entire thing in the pic i showed u i replaced it brand new. i drove my car a few miles yesterday it didnt run hot but the water boiled and steam came thru label 7 in the diagram i took from u , im showing u where the steam comes thru so the same pic but i have a 7th label check it out. http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr108/musicme_01/chrysler.gif
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Well the temp sensor most likely failed and that caused the fan to not turn on, therefore the car overheated and the coolant pressurized and leaked out of the bleeder housing (which is designed very poorly to begin with), and htat is where you are at.

    The problem is the temp sensor. Once that is fixed with the bleeder housing, you should be good to go.

     

    I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions!

    Customer: replied 5 years ago.
    ok i'll try it tomorrow the pic i showed u only a part got broken so i can just exchange it all that should be cheaper thanks alot tomrrow i'll get back at me. goodnight
    Expert:  Derrick replied 5 years ago.

    Good luck! Let me know if you have any more questions!

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