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I would suggest that you first check if the car is getting any fuel.
You can do this with a simple at home test.
This is a manual bypass of the whole fuel system.
If the car starts and dies, the fuel is not reaching the chambers (bad pump, injectors, or ecm)
If the car starts and remains on the car had a clogged or dirty fuel system
Car still does nothing, we need to move on and test for spark.
Okay did the cranking change or was it the same?
That means we have a spark problem. You can confirm the spark problem by doing the following test.
This issue can be cause by a bad ignition coil, igniter, ignition rotor, or distributor.
We will test them from most likely to leak likely. You can perform the spark test (test mentioned above) prior to proceeding to testing the ignition coil. The most common cause of this issue is the ignition coil. When the coil goes out, the car does not have spark. You will need a voltmeter or multimeter to conduct the testing.
The ignition coil is secured to a mounting bracket, which is located on the firewall of the engine compartment
The ignition coil should be approximately 68°F (20°C) when tested.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnecting the battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the functions of the on board computer systems and may require the computer to undergo a relearning process, once the negative battery cable is disconnected.
Detach the lead wire connector and coil-to-distributor wire from the ignition coil.
To inspect the ignition coil primary circuit, use an ohmmeter to measure the circuit's resistance as shown-1990-95 Samurai models
Connect the ohmmeter to the ignition coil as indicated for the primary circuit test-1989-95 fuel-injected Sidekick and Tracker models
The ohmmeter should be connected to the terminals shown for ignition coil testing-1996-98 models
Using an ohmmeter, measure the primary coil resistance between the positive (+) and negative (-) coil terminals. The primary coil resistance should be as follows:
1.3L engines-0.9-1.1 ohms
1989-93 1.6L engines-0.72-0.88 ohms
1994-95 1.6L engines-1.08-1.32 ohms
1996-98 1.6L engines-0.7-0.9 ohms
Using an ohmmeter, measure the secondary coil resistance between the positive (+) terminal and the coil-to-distributor wire terminal (on the coil). The secondary coil resistance should be as follows:
1.3L engines-10.2-2.8 kilohms
1989-93 1.6L engines-10.2-3.0 kilohms
1994-95 1.6L engines-22.1-29.9 kilohms
1996-98 1.6L engines-2-18 kilohms
Measure the secondary circuit resistance by connecting an ohmmeter to the terminals shown-1990-95 Samurai models
For 1989-95 fuel-injected Sidekick and Tracker models, attach the ohmmeter to the ignition coil as shown for secondary circuit testing
If the primary or secondary resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.
Install the coil, and reattach all wires to it.
Connect the negative battery cable.
You checked for spark and it's shooting spark?
DId you check on just one of the wires, or all?
Because here is the thing.
If the car has spark and the car has fuel (we supplied fuel directly), then we have a bigger issue.
Here is the equation for starting the car.
Fuel + Spark + Air = Start.
We have fuel and we have spark, this would mean that we are not getting air (compression).