So tell me...is the car starting now with the new battery?
You are just after the dome light and radio illumination.
Is this correct?
I've done a bit more studying on the electrical schematic on your vehicle.
With a 12volt test lamp, check to be sure there is power at the 10 amp PARK fuse in the underhood junction block.
If there is power to both sides of the 10 amp PARK fuse, then we will need to do some checking with the headlamp switch and dimmer switch on the dash.
A problem here, may have caused the battery to go dead as well.
Let me know
One of the first steps you need to take at your end to help me help you find your problem.
Check the large terminal at the Starter Motor. There should be a larger Battery Cable and a Blue Fusible Link connected on the terminal. Be sure the connection is secure and check to be sure the fusible link is not burned.
The fusible link runs from the starter to the Alternator. Check the back of the alternator to be sure the connection there is good. Make sure the fusible link is ok under the insulation, by gently pulling on the blue fuse link. If it stretches, it is bad.
If you have checked these connections and cannot find a problem, then at minimum, I will need to work with you with a 12volt test lamp.
I will need to know by your tests with the test lamp, where we have power and were we don't.
Check the items I have mentioned in this post and my previous post, and let me know what you find.
I would also need to know if the vehicle is equipped with any type of aftermarket alarm.
And does your vehicle have keyless entry and security system.
There are some wiring issues in the left front door area that can cause everything you are experiencing. This is a common problem.
There is a technical service bulletin that addresses this issue.
BULLETIN NO.: 99-T-43
ISSUE DATE: September, 1999
GROUP/SEQ. NO.: Electrical-03
CORPORATION NO.: 99-08-45-002
SUBJECT:Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) or Security System Inoperative and/or EngineWill Not Crank, Power Door Locks Inoperative or IntermittentlyInoperative, Power Windows Inoperative, Power Mirror Inoperative, DoorSpeaker Volume Cutting Out, 1OA BODY Fuse Open or 1OA CHIME FuseOpen (Repair Body Wiring Harness)
MODELS AFFECTED:1996 - 1999 Saturn S-Series Sedans and Wagons
CONDITION:Customer may comment that on occasion, one or more of the following conditions occur:
Power mirror inoperative. (Must be equipped with RPO code D35.) Front door speaker volume cuts out intermittently.
CAUSE:The cause of the above conditions may be the main body to front door wire harness coming into contact with front door hinge reinforcement bracket. (Refer to illustration.)
The harness is routed into the front doors through a grommet as it enters the outer door structure. It is then routed across the front door hinge reinforcement (about 51 mm [2 in.] from end of grommet) before it is anchored by a rosebud. Depending on variation in either the manufacturing or routing of the wire harness, there is a chance that the wire harness can come into contact with hinge reinforcement bracket and chafe, causing a short to ground on one or more of the circuits listed in this bulletin.
Even if you decide that these checks may be too much, this information will give you a heads-up when you take the vehicle to a technician for diagnosis and repair.
You should now be armed with a likely cause for your Saturn Battery,No-start and interior lighting information. Any questions, let me know.
Yes, a multi-meter will work fine.
OK, so the old battery may be OK anyway.
So you didn't have any system voltage at the 10 amp PARK fuse.
Set the meter on the next step above the 12v scale, usually about a 20V DC scale, and connect the black negative lead of the meter to a good ground on the engine or negative battery cable....and probe with the Red positive lead.
Most fuses can now be checked without even pulling them out of the socket. Probe each side on the top and you get batt voltage on both sides of the fuse, it's good.
You see no 12 volts there at the PARK fuse and we need to backtrace a bit.
So do you have 12volts on the post on the back of the alternator? And there is a Fusible Link at the alternator too.
And do you have 12 volts on both sides of the 30amp IGN4 fuse in the underhood junction block and IP BATT 30 amp fuse?
If either of the 30amp fuses are not receiving their 12 volt power , you need to check the Positive Battery Cable. Coming off of the Positive cable right at the battery, is a large cable running down to the starter, and the small one running over to the Underhood Junction Block.
You will need to check the small Red Wire going from the battery to the Junction block.
Make sure at the ring terminal where it connects at the junction block is clean and secure. And receiving 12volts from the battery.
This should be getting us close to a solution.
Let me know how it goes.
Go through and let's see if we can do these checks without the need of any additional special tools.
That brings us right back to the Bulletin I sent you.
If yours is a Sedan or Wagon.
Check 10 A Body fuse and 10 AMp Body fuse.
Then step by step through the Bulletin.
If you need the wiring schematics, let me know.
Need to go through the steps to verify your vehicle