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Glenn
Glenn, ASE Master Certified Tech
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 1746
Experience:  28 Years ASE Master Auto & Truck Tech with advanced engine perf L1&2, Ford Senior Master Tech.
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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger 4X4 with the 2.9 liter engine, I ...

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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger 4X4 with the 2.9 liter engine, I have replaced the Coil, distributor cap and rotor. I have good power going to the coil and then out of the coil to the distributor ( primary) but I still have no power going to the distributor from the secondary wire thus I have no spark at any plugs I have tried different coil wires (secondary) to no avail. any help wopuld be greatly appreciated.

hello there,

Yes your stator is very likely defective, you should have a flashing test light at the neg side of the ignition coil,[during cranking of engine] since you have already replaced the ign module the only thing left is the stator.

Glenn and 4 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
well I changed the stator and still no fire
I am totaly stumped do you think it could be a fuse or wiring? Also when I put the tet light to the positive side of the coil I get steady burn
when I put the test light on the negative side of the coil I get a draw down( when starting engine) but still a steady burn, nothing out of the coil wire to the cap.

Did the gear on the end of the distributor looked OK? Pop the cap back off and make sure it does turn..Make sure you have 12v at r/alb [crank] and r/lg [key on] at the module.

 

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Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Excuse me for sounding stupid but could you elaberate on this just a little more.


*** Make sure you have 12v at r/alb [crank] and r/lg [key on] at the module.***
I see that you have 2 posts to the answer site going...I read your other one and it sounds like you have power at those 2 wires..those are wire colors...Is the distributor turning?
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Yes I closed the other post and am just using this one now.

The gear looked fine and the distributor is turning. The wire colors are red/light blue and dark green/yellow they have power with the key turned on.
You need power at one more wire on that module the red/light green. Look at the wiring diagrams, if its not there jump it from the positive side of coil to the module and see if you get spark then. Do that wiring harness test, it shows which pins.
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I have the power to all three wires to the module
I did the harness test and all was good and it says the module should be replaced. I then did the stator - module test on the new module and the old module that i took out. both had the exact same resistance readings listed below.

GND-PIP IN        well greater than 500 Ohms
PIP PWR - PIP IN   less than 1000 Ohms
PIP PWR - TFI PWR this one reads 900 Ohms
GND - ING GND      0 ohms
PIP IN - PIP       100 Ohms

with all this is it telling me to replace the TFI Module?

What brand name of parts are you using for replacement? Just running out of ideas here, check that the distributor housing is a good ground, ohm it back to the negative battery post. [5 ohms or less] Make sure you did not damage any of the vanes that go thru the stator, if they rub on that, you will need to straighten them back out. Both screws are present & tight for module and stator [it grounds thru those] Make sure that you have battery voltage [use volt meter instead of test light] at all those pins.

Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Most of the parts have been Duralast I am going to do some more testing with the voltmeter and maybe try another module! I have been trying to get this thing running for about a week now and is very frustrating I have never had any problems like this before. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks for all the help and if anything else pops into your head let me know.

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