how do I remove the serpentine belt on 94 mercury villager. thanks for your help.38869.6811333333
Optional Information: 1994 Mercury villager 6cyl.Already Tried: losening the bolt on tensioner.
Reply to RIP's Post: it shows the routing diag, but doesn't tell me how to remove the belt. I have losened the tensioner with the hope that it would slide down as it appears it would, but not so. I am actuall replacing the accessorry belt. Thanks
I'm sorry I sent the instruction, but they didn't make it before you read it. There are three belts, the a/c belt has to be removed first by relieving tension on the automatic tensioner with a serpentine belt tensioner tool sold at most part suppliers at an inexpensive price. Second the alternator belt is removed by loosening the top alternator mount bolt, and the bottom adjuster bracket bolt, than loosen the mechanical adjuster bolt positioned toward the front of the vehicle, and push the bolt inward, the alternator will move inward as well. Last the power steering belt is removed by loosening the idler bolt just below the pump, and than loosening the adjuster bolt found underneath the idler. To install reverse removal procedure.
A.S.E. Master Technician, Advanced Level, Smog - European, Domestic, & Asian -- Car Category Mentor
Reply to RIP's Post: it looks as though I only have to remove the a/c belt to replace the alternator belt. On the tensioner there is a bolt that appears to allow the tensioner to slide up or down, I have losened this bolt but it is not moving up or down and is this where I would need the tensioner tool.
p.s. I will accept your answer. Thanks for the info so far.38869.7539624653
Nothing on the automatic tensioner needs to be loosened. The tensioner is fully automatic, and with the tool inserted onto the bolt of the idler portion of the tensioner, leverage is used to compress the stron spring inside. If there is a replacement tensioner in there it may have a 3/8 drive hole it it where the tool can also fit. The tool is basically a long, thin bar with diffrent attachments on the end to fit various different automatic tensioners.
Reply to RIP's Post: RIP, thanks again for all your help. I hope I don't seem like an idiot, but if you look at the diag. just below the power steering is a device I thought to be the automatic tensioner, also the device labeled tension is mounted to a bracket through the back of the tensioner is a 4 1/2" 10mm bolt. this bolt goes through the bracket first then tensioner, making it impossible to move the tensioner. I have removed this bolt, I can only sumise that this will enable me to us the tensioner tool the relieve the tension.
There is never anything as a stupid question, I rather you understand completely how to do this. But now i'm afraid I may have given you the wrong instructions, you may have mechanical tensioners all around. Can you send me a digital pic of the tensioner assembly to my e-mail (RIP180OUT@aol.com). If it is a mechanical tensioner for the a/c belt than the bolt to loosen it may be on the other side of the pulley/bracket. If you've loosened the adjuster bolt, and the pully isn't moving, it's because the center pulley bolt has to be removed on all mechanical type tensioners/adjusters. If you can't loosen the bolt from the front, it's because there may be one on the rear of the pulley. If you can send the pic i'll be positive, up unti '93 they used mechanical tensioners, so you might have a motor from this break in the design.
Reply to RIP's Post: Hello again Rip. once again thank you!Is it possible that I may have one mechanical(in the diagram this would be the one to the left of the a/c compressor) and one automatic (the one just to the left of the crankshaft). The manual one is the one I removed the 10mm 4 1/2" long bolt from, it does not appear to have another bolt in front or back of tensioner, at any rate I will send digital pics.
No the one down to the left of the crsnkshaft is definitly mechanical, to loosen it you would loosen the center bolt, and the long stud underneath. The one for the a/c would be the automatic one, if you have loosened a long stud on this one than it too is mechanical. An automatic tensioner is a singal piece unit, which mounts to the block and is spring loaded, The pressure of the spring keeps the belt taught at all times, to relieve the tension, a long bar with the correct socket has to be used as leverage; this is where the serp belt tool comes in.
Take a pic when you can, and i'll know for sure, but from what it sounds like, you most likely have the mechanical version. The loosening nut is uually on the opposite side of the idling pully. Another quick tip, when you get the belts back on, to tension them correctly so they won't slip and sqeal, tighten the long studs in until you can't twist the longest prtion of the belt more than 45 degrees. So, for example, if your tightening the a/c belt; the longest portion is between the crank pulley and the compressor. You would find the center (which is right above the alternator pully, and twist it aas though your trying to see the ribbed side of the belt. When properly tightned, you shouldn't be able to twist it completely around orit's too loose, the most it should twist is about the 40 degrees. This is a good rule of thumb to know on checking all belt adjustments, including sutomatic tensioner style.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX the pic's. The pic's of the a/c tensioner show that it is mechanical and you'll need to loosen the bolt in the rear. The power steering tensioner has the bolt in the center of the pulley, that needs to be loosened, and than both of the respective adjuster studs.
Reply to RIP's Post: Thanks again,the 4 1/2" 10mm bolt runs verical through the back of the tensioner. It almost looks like in the front of the tensioner is a torx head, is this possible, if so do you happen to know the size?
It's possible it may be a torx if the tensioner was probably replaced in the past with an aftermarket one. Unfortunatly I don't know the exact size, but if you don't have torx bits, AutoZone sells a set fairly cheap (under $10.00). I believe it might be either a T50, T55, or T60.