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HOW TO INSTALL A 10SI GM ALTERNATOR IN MY 1956 FORD

Resolved Question:

HOW TO INSTALL A 10SI GM ALTERNATOR IN MY 1956 FORD? PUTTING A/C UNIT IN MY CAR AND NEED TO REPLACE THE GENERATOR WITH A ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR. NEED ALL THE HELP YOU CAN GIVE!!!!!!!!      THANK YOU RICH.    RCSILVERNAIL@AOL.COM

Optional Information:
Pre-1981 Ford MAINLINE 312 Y BLOCK

Already Tried:
NONE!!!!!!!!





Submitted: 8 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  david replied 8 years ago.

hi thank you for the question hope this helps


1956 Ford Alternator Conversion
i Took on this same Conversion about 2 years ago i found a good way of using the stock generator brackets. You can return to the stock generator setup in about an hour.. this requires no welding no special tools other than a hacksaw and a drill. As for the wiring i used a GM 10SI 63 amp alternator from a 1980 Chevy this is a three-wire style but it might help none the less.


Materials needed are an 8" length of 7/16" threaded rod, some spacers, bolts and two pieces
of 3/16" x 1" flat stock drilled with two holes. These act as offsets to allow the alternator to hang from the threaded rod. The flat stock is cut 3 1/8" long and 7/16" and 3/8" holes are drilled 2 1/8" apart.


The pieces are assembled as shown


I used a couple of bushings to eliminate the need for so many washers. It gives the installation a little cleaner look. The number of washers/bushings will depend on which particular alternator is used. The alternator is positioned along the threaded rod so that the pulley aligns with the fan and crankshaft pulleys


as shown her


this photo shows the alternator installed on the engine.


Wiring hookups: i used
alternator pigtail is also needed. I used NAPA P/N VRC148 $3.77.


1. Disconnect the battery

2. Remove the #10 Yellow/Black wire from the "A" terminal on the voltage regulator and attach it to the "B" terminal. (It is OK to leave the "B" terminal connected to the circuit.)

3. Remove the Black/White band wire from the "F" terminal on the regulator and remove the 18 GA yellow/black wire from the
"A" terminal (there were two black/yellow wires on the "A" terminal). Take these two wires and connect them together. In summary, this should leave you with two 10 GA wires on the "B" terminal, two 18 GA wires connected together by themselves, and no wires on the "A" or "F" terminals.

4. At the alternator, attach the pigtail to the alternator (most pigtails have a large 12 GA, usually red wire and a small wire, usually white). You must make sure the larger wire is in the #2 ("F") slot on the alternator and attach an eyelet with a #12 size hole. Connect this wire along with the 10 GA yellow/black from the harness to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator.

5. Connect the 18 GA black/white band wire from the harness to the new pigtail small wire that goes to the #1 ("R") slot on the alternator.

6. The 18 GA black/red wire in the harness is a ground and can be connected to one of the case cover bolts. Run a 10 GA ground wire from the case ground to the frame to insure a solid ground connection.

7. Reattach the battery terminals.


I also read a couple of articles in FoMoCo Times, the publication of the Crown Victoria Association, that described a couple of ways to mount an alternator on a Y-block. Vintage Air in San Antonio, Texas (www.vintageair.com) also makes a combination alternator/AC compressor mounting system for Y-blocks. This system is designed for a double pulley setup and also requires relocating the dipstick tube.


bonuses are appreciated
good luck


























Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Reply to david's Post: THIS ALTERNATOR IS A ONE WIRE HOOK-UP. I HAVE ALL THE BRACKETS. WHAT I NEED IS HOOK-UP THE WIRE'S. THANK YOU RICH.
Expert:  david replied 8 years ago.

OK this is what i think you need to do good luck


As usual with electrical work, start by disconnecting the battery. Then pull off the brown/yellow and brown/green generator wires (see original wire diagram)and remove the generator and all its mountings. Tie up the old wires to the nearby loom with nylon ties or similar. Install the alternator mountings, the alternator, and the new fan belt.
The length of the new fan belt should be such that the alternator adjustment slot is not at the end of its travel, and you should be able to get your spark plug wrench on the number 1 plug. A good parts store will be able to supply the next size up or down as required.
Next, wire the alternator. (see modified wiring diagram) Connect the thick brown wire to the large center terminal in the alternator plug and the thin brown wire to the other large terminal. Run these two wires in parallel and connect their free ends to the ring terminal. Be sure the wires are long enough to reach the battery side of the starter solenoid, allowing some slack for engine movement. Crimp and solder both ends for really good connections. The thick wire carries very high currents; bad connections will cause localed heating, excessive voltage drop, and may prevent the system from working at all. Attach the ring terminal to the battery side of the solenoid. Connect the new small (yellow?) wire to the small terminal on the alternator plug and run it along the loom up to the regulator unit. Push the plug into the back of the alternator and fasten the retaining clip. Secure the new wires to the loom for neatness and safety.Now,wire the regulator. (see modified wiring diagram) First, to keep the regulator from operating, pull off the black wire connected to the 'E' terminal. Remove the small brown/yellow wire from the 'WL' terminal. Fit the Lucar blade terminal to the yellow alternator wire and connect it to the brown/yellow wire. Cover them with electrician's tape or sleeving to prevent them from shorting against anything. That's it!


original wire diagram




modified wiring diagram


Testing

Before testing, go back over absolutely everything. When the engine speed rises above idle, the ignition warning light should go out and there should be about 14 volts at the battery.


good luck







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