hi thank you for the question hope this helps
1956 Ford Alternator Conversion
i Took on this same Conversion about 2 years ago i found a good way of using the stock generator brackets. You can return to the stock generator setup in about an hour.. this requires no welding no special tools other than a hacksaw and a drill. As for the wiring i used a GM 10SI 63 amp alternator from a 1980 Chevy this is a three-wire style but it might help none the less.
Materials needed are an 8" length of 7/16" threaded rod, some spacers, bolts and two pieces
of 3/16" x 1" flat stock drilled with two holes. These act as offsets to allow the alternator to hang from the threaded rod. The flat stock is cut 3 1/8" long and 7/16" and 3/8" holes are drilled 2 1/8" apart.
The pieces are assembled as shown
I used a couple of bushings to eliminate the need for so many washers. It gives the installation a little cleaner look. The number of washers/bushings will depend on which particular alternator is used. The alternator is positioned along the threaded rod so that the pulley aligns with the fan and crankshaft pulleys
as shown her
this photo shows the alternator installed on the engine.
Wiring hookups: i used
alternator pigtail is also needed. I used NAPA P/N VRC148 $3.77.
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the #10 Yellow/Black wire from the "A" terminal on the voltage regulator and attach it to the "B" terminal. (It is OK to leave the "B" terminal connected to the circuit.)
3. Remove the Black/White band wire from the "F" terminal on the regulator and remove the 18 GA yellow/black wire from the
"A" terminal (there were two black/yellow wires on the "A" terminal). Take these two wires and connect them together. In summary, this should leave you with two 10 GA wires on the "B" terminal, two 18 GA wires connected together by themselves, and no wires on the "A" or "F" terminals.
4. At the alternator, attach the pigtail to the alternator (most pigtails have a large 12 GA, usually red wire and a small wire, usually white). You must make sure the larger wire is in the #2 ("F") slot on the alternator and attach an eyelet with a #12 size hole. Connect this wire along with the 10 GA yellow/black from the harness to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator.
5. Connect the 18 GA black/white band wire from the harness to the new pigtail small wire that goes to the #1 ("R") slot on the alternator.
6. The 18 GA black/red wire in the harness is a ground and can be connected to one of the case cover bolts. Run a 10 GA ground wire from the case ground to the frame to insure a solid ground connection.
7. Reattach the battery terminals.
I also read a couple of articles in FoMoCo Times, the publication of the Crown Victoria Association, that described a couple of ways to mount an alternator on a Y-block. Vintage Air in San Antonio, Texas (www.vintageair.com) also makes a combination alternator/AC compressor mounting system for Y-blocks. This system is designed for a double pulley setup and also requires relocating the dipstick tube.
bonuses are appreciated