How JustAnswer Works:

  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.

Ask Davo Your Own Question

Davo
Davo, Master technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 3253
Experience:  ASE Master Technician/Advanced Automotive Diagnostic Technician
112340
Type Your Car Question Here...
Davo is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

1997 Chevrolet blazer: a 1997 chevy blazer..4WD..vortec

Customer Question

how to replace outer cv joint on a 1997 chevy blazer 4WD 4.3l vortec

Optional Information:
1997 Chevrolet blazer 4.3L vortec

Already Tried:
nothing





Submitted: 8 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Davo replied 8 years ago.
I included some extra info in case you are changing the boots and not just the joint or shaft.

1997-99 Models




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  2. Unlock the steering column so the linkage is free to move, then raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.



  3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.



  4. Insert a drift through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes to prevent the drive axle from turning.



  5. Remove the axle nut and washer from the hub end of the shaft. Hold the hub from turning and loosen the axle nut. Once the nut is loosened unthread it and remove the washer.



  6. Remove the brake caliper and support it with a piece of wire to avoid damaging the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor.



  7. Remove the ABS and brake line brackets from the top of the upper control arm.


Be careful when supporting the lower control arm that any components are damaged with the supporting device.




  1. Place a jackstand or jack under the lower control arm.



  2. Separate the axle shaft from the hub by placing a block of wood against the outer edge of the axle (to protect the threads), then strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer. Do not remove the axle at this time.



  3. Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the upper ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle. Tip the knuckle out and toward the rear of the vehicle. Suspend the knuckle from the upper control arm or frame in order to prevent straining and damaging the brake line.



  4. Remove the lower shock absorber retainers, then compress the shock and secure it out of the way using safety wire.


Once the lower ball joint is separated from the knuckle, simultaneously push the axle shaft in towards the differential to allow room for the knuckle and assembly to be removed.




  1. Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the lower ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle.



  2. Lower the safety stand or jack at the lower control arm to relieve pressure on the torsion bar, then separate the axle from the knuckle.



  3. Remove the differential carrier shield, being very careful not to damage the axle seal.



  4. To remove the shaft from the differential carrier, place a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing, then strike it outwards using a hammer. You will have to hit it hard enough to overcome the snapring pressure retaining it.



  5. Support the drive axle, then pull the axle straight out from the carrier being careful not to tear the boot.


To install:


It is essential that the differential carrier and axle seals are not lubricated or damaged during installation. Prior to shaft installation, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud and ALL other sharp edges with a cloth or rag to help protect the boot.




  1. Install the axle into the carrier. With both hands on the tripot housing, align the splines on the shaft with the carrier. Then center the axle into the carrier seal and push the shaft straight into the carrier until the snapring is properly seated.


Be careful when supporting the lower control arm that any components are damaged with the supporting device.




  1. Raise the lower control arm using a jackstand or jack until the full weight of the arm is supported.


It is necessary to slightly start the knuckle onto the axle while at the same time guiding the lower ball joint into position on the knuckle.




  1. Install the lower ball joint, the lower shock absorber and the upper ball joint.



  2. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).



  3. Attach the ABS and brake line brackets to the top of the upper control arm.



  4. Install the caliper and rotor



  5. Install the tire and wheel assembly.



  6. Install the differential carrier shield.



  7. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.



CV-JOINT OVERHAUL



Outer CV-Joint


See Figures 9 through 19


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 9: Exploded view of the drive axle and CV-joints



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 10: Aligning the cage windows with the outer race lands so the cage (and inner race) may be removed



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 11: Rotating the inner race up and out of the cage



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 12: Small retaining clamp installation and ear dimension



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 13: Large retaining clamp installation and ear dimension-outer joint shown (inner joint uses same dimension)



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 14: Before removal check the CV-boot for wear or damage



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 15: In most cases, use a pair of side cutters to release clamp tension-inner band shown



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 16: Remove the outer band from the CV-boot once the clamp tension has been released



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 17: Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing the boot, but be careful not to damage the boot



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 18: With the clamps removed, carefully pull the CV-boot from the joint housing



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 19: Pull the housing from the spider and shaft assembly-inner joint shown





  1. Remove the drive axle from the vehicle.



  2. Place the axle in a vise using a protective covering on the vise jaws to prevent axle damage.

CAUTION Because the retaining clamps are under tension, use care when cutting and removing them. Wear gloves and safety goggles to protect you should the clamp spring loose upon releasing the tension.


  1. Cut and remove the CV-boot retaining clamps. If the boot is not being replaced, use care not to cut or damage the boot.


Some vehicles are equipped with a swage ring. In order to remove the ring, use a hand grinder to cut through the ring. Take care not to damage the outer race while cutting the swage ring free.




  1. Once the clamps are removed, reposition the boot and wipe the grease away in order to locate the snapring.



  2. Remove the snapring using a suitable pair of snapring pliers, such as J-8059 or equivalent.



  3. Remove the joint assembly from the axle shaft.



  4. Using a brass drift and hammer, tap the cage until it tilts sufficiently to remove the first ball, remove the remaining balls in the same manner.



  5. Pivot the cage so the inner race is 90 degrees to the centerline of the outer race, then align the cage windows with the outer race lands and lift the cage (along with the inner race) from the outer race. Please refer to the illustration for clarification.



  6. Rotate the inner race up and out of the cage.



  7. Thoroughly clean all parts in an approved solvent, then check for wear or damage and replaces, as necessary.


To install:




  1. Apply a suitable grease to the ball grooves of the inner and outer races.



  2. Install the inner race to the cage by inserting and rotating.



  3. Align the cage windows with the outer race lands, then install the cage (along with the inner race) to the outer race. Make sure the retaining ring side of the inner race faces outward.



  4. Use the brass drift to tap the cage to a tilted position, then install the balls.



  5. Pack the joint using a suitable grease.



  6. Position the small boot clamp onto the outboard boot, then install the boot the axle shaft. Tighten the small clamp securely using a suitable clamp tool such as J-35910 or equivalent. If the tool has a torque wrench fitting, secure the clamp using 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm) of torque.



  7. Check the clamp ear gap dimension (distance that the inner bends of the crimp should be from each other), it should be a maximum of 0.085 in. (2.15mm). Please refer to the illustration for clarification.



  8. Install the joint assembly to the shaft and secure using the snapring. Pack the boot and outer joint assembly with the premeasured amount of the grease supplied with the service kit, then snap the boot onto the outer joint assembly and manipulate it to remove excess air.



  9. Install the large retaining clamp using the clamp tool and torque wrench. Secure the clamp using 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) of torque. Again, check the clamp ear dimension, it should be a maximum of 0.102 in. (2.60mm)



  10. Install the drive axle to the vehicle.



Inner CV-Joint


See Figures 20 through 27


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 20: Snapring and spider removal



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 21: Proper inboard boot and housing positioning



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 22: On the inner CV-joint, be careful not to loose the spider assembly components



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 23: Remove the CV-joint housing and check for wear or damage



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 24: With the spacer and spider pushed back, grasp the snapring using a pair of snapring pliers



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 25: Remove the snapring from the shaft so the spider assembly may be removed



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 26: With the snapring removed, the spider is free to be pulled from the shaft



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 27: If necessary, remove the spacer ring from the shaft





  1. Remove the drive axle from the vehicle.



  2. Place the axle in a vise using a protective covering on the vise jaws to prevent axle damage.

Because the retaining clamps are under tension, use care when cutting and removing them. Wear gloves and safety goggles to protect you should the clamp spring loose upon releasing the tension.


  1. Cut and remove the CV-boot retaining clamps. If the boot is not being replaced, use care not to cut or damage the boot.


Some vehicles are equipped with a swage ring. In order to remove the ring, use a hand grinder to cut through the ring. Take care not to damage the outer race while cutting the swage ring free.




  1. Remove the axle shaft with spider assembly from the housing.


Handle the spider assembly with care. The tripot needle rollers may separate from the spider trunnions.




  1. Grasp the space ring using J-8059, or an equivalent pair of snapring pliers, then slide the ring back on the axle shaft in order to provide clearance to move the spider assembly.



  2. Move the spider assembly back on the shaft in order to expose the retaining snapring.



  3. Remove the snapring using a suitable pair of snapring pliers, such as J-8059 or equivalent.



  4. Remove the spider assembly.



  5. Thoroughly clean all grease from the housing. Check for rust at the boot mounting grooves, if found remove with a wire brush.


To install:




  1. Install the small boot clamp and inboard boot to the axle shaft.



  2. If the spacer ring was removed, make sure it is positioned up on the shaft leaving room for spider and snapring installation.



  3. Install the spider assembly to the axle shaft, making sure the snapring counterbore faces the housing end of the axle.



  4. Install the snapring to the shaft, then properly position the spider and space ring.



  5. Position the small boot clamp and tighten securely using a suitable clamp tool such as J-35910 or equivalent. If the tool has a torque wrench fitting, secure the clamp using 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm) of torque.



  6. Check the clamp ear gap dimension (distance that the inner bends of the crimp should be from each other), it should be a maximum of 0.085 in. (2.15mm). Please refer to the illustration for clarification.



  7. Repack the housing using about half of the premeasured grease supplied with the service kit, then place the remainder of grease in the boot. Coat the inside of the boot sealing lips with grease.



  8. Make sure the joint/boot are assembled to the proper dimension of 6 1/4 in. (160mm) between the clamps. Please refer to the illustration for clarification.



  9. Install the large retaining clamp using the clamp tool and torque wrench. Secure the clamp using 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) of torque. Again, check the clamp ear dimension, it should be a maximum of 0.102 in. (2.60mm).



  10. Install the drive axle to the vehicle.











































JustAnswer in the News:

 
 
 
Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you've got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers... Justanswer.com.
JustAnswer.com...has seen a spike since October in legal questions from readers about layoffs, unemployment and severance.
Web sites like justanswer.com/legal
...leave nothing to chance.
Traffic on JustAnswer rose 14 percent...and had nearly 400,000 page views in 30 days...inquiries related to stress, high blood pressure, drinking and heart pain jumped 33 percent.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.
 
 
 

What Customers are Saying:

 
 
 
  • I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. Thanks, and be sure that I'll be back whenever I need a question answered in a hurry. Stephanie P Elm City, NC
< Last | Next >
  • I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. Thanks, and be sure that I'll be back whenever I need a question answered in a hurry. Stephanie P Elm City, NC
  • used your service this weekend with "Trecers" help. thank you ,thank you, thank you. replaced an A/C fan motor. Local Auto Zone had part. $15.00 "tracer" fee and $40.00 for parts, I saved several hundreds of dollers at a shop. i will recommend you and use you in the future. David L. Richmond, TX
  • 9 dollars, 2 hours of my time, and I drove away. Your diagnosis was right on the mark. Thank you so much. Phil Marysville, CA
  • Lurch. Thank you very much. I had real doubts about this website but your promptness of response, quick followup and to the point answer with picture was incredible. Charles Walnut Creek, CA
  • As a single woman, I really appreciate an excellent and affordable opinion.
    Thank you Geordie, I will not hesitate to contact justanswer in the future!
    Sue Charleston, WV
  • Another great insight to what may be the problem. I will have my mechanic take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks again, Frank...you do indeed know your stuff. Jim Castleberry, FL
  • Excellent reply, and also very quick. Really sounds like the Expert knows what he is talking about. I will be back to use your service when I need more help with my RV. Dutch USA
 
 
 

Meet The Experts:

 
 
 
  • Chris (aka-Moose)

    Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    846
    16 years of experience
< Last | Next >
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MU/muddyford/2012-6-13_1204_1.64x64.png Chris (aka-Moose)'s Avatar

    Chris (aka-Moose)

    Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    846
    16 years of experience
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TE/TedG/2012-6-15_14759_avaLarge.64x64.jpg Ted G.'s Avatar

    Ted G.

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    1596
    20 years auto repair experience, ASE Master Tech, Mechanical Failure consultant, Expert Witness
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/joecamel90/2008-11-13_03615_head_shot.jpg George H.'s Avatar

    George H.

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    1311
    ASE Master Tech 15+ yrs, AAS Automotive Technology, Factory trained Asian specialist
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/AM/amedee/2013-10-24_23656_Amedee1.64x64.jpg Amedee's Avatar

    Amedee

    ASE Master Tech

    Satisfied Customers:

    2367
    ASE Master Tech advanced level specialist
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SU/supermechanic/2013-8-23_03546_500.64x64.jpg Jerry's Avatar

    Jerry

    Master Mechanic

    Satisfied Customers:

    1906
    ASE master, 30+ years. All makes and models. Trouble shooter, shop forman, service manager
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/CR/crzydrvr00/2013-11-3_12123_246347.64x64.jpg Richard's Avatar

    Richard

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    942
    12 years Ford Lincoln/Mercury Jaguar dealership as a technician and shop foreman reparing all makes
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ST/Steve7654/2012-6-5_215929_japic800x660.64x64.jpg Steve's Avatar

    Steve

    Auto Service Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    1980
    25+ yrs experience as a professional working technician; ASE L1 master technician