Instructions for removing the transaxle are first. The specifics on the clutch are after that.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disengage the two back-up light switch wiring connectors.
Disengage the Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch wiring connector.
Remove the clutch cable adjusting nut and disengage the cable from the release lever. Pull the clutch release cable through the cable bracket.
Remove the engine compartment wiring harness ground strap from the transaxle.
Remove the starter motor.
Loosen the speedometer cable retainer and disconnect the speedometer cable.
Remove the two bolts from the top of the clutch housing.
Install a three bar engine support tool D88L-6000-A, or equivalent. Properly secure the engine to the engine support tool.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Disengage the halfshafts from the differential side gears.
Install differential side gear plug tool T87C-7025-C or equivalent, to prevent the side gears from moving.
Remove the nut and bolt attaching the shift rod to the input shaft.
Remove the gearshift stabilizer bar nut, lockwasher and flat washer, then remove the bar from the control rod-to-support bar stud.
Loosen the three transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts from the transaxle case rear bracket and remove the bracket.
Loosen the three transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts from the transaxle case front bracket and remove the bracket.
Fig. 1: Location of the transaxle-to-rear engine support retainers
Loosen the two rear and front transaxle support insulator nuts from the rear engine support.
Loosen the four rear engine support rebound insulator bolts and remove the rear engine support.
Position a suitable transmission jack under the transaxle and secure it with a safety chain or strap.
Loosen the four flywheel reinforcing plate bolts.
Loosen the two remaining transaxle-to-engine block retaining bolts.
Carefully separate the transaxle from the engine and lower the transaxle from the vehicle.
Raise the transaxle into position and seat it against the rear of the engine.
Install the four flywheel reinforcing plate bolts and tighten to 62-86 inch lbs. (7-10 Nm).
Install four lower transaxle retaining bolts and tighten to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm).
Remove the transmission jack.
Position the rear engine support. Install the two rear transaxle support insulator nuts and tighten them to 21-34 ft. lbs. (28-46 Nm).
Install the two front transaxle support insulator nuts and tighten to 32-38 ft. lbs. (43-52 Nm).
Install the four rear engine support rebound insulator bolts and tighten to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm.).
Install the transaxle case-to-cylinder block front and rear brackets and the three bolts on each. Tighten the bolts to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm).
Install the washer and the gearshift stabilizer bar on the control rod-to-support bar stud.
Install the washer, lockwasher and gearshift stabilizer bar nut. Tighten the nut to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-52 Nm).
Position the gearshift rod and clevis on the main shift control shaft and install the selector shift rod adjustment sleeve. Tighten the nut to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
Route the PNP switch wiring over the rear engine support.
Install the halfshaft and CV-joint assemblies.
Check and fill the transaxle, if needed.
Lower the vehicle and remove the engine support bar.
Install the two retaining bolts at the top of the clutch housing. The top bolt is installed through the heater pipe bracket. Tighten the bolts to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm).
Connect the ground strap to the transaxle case.
Attach the speedometer cable to the sleeve and hand-tighten.
Install the starter motor.
Engage the PNP and back-up light switch wiring connectors.
Connect the clutch cable to the release lever and adjust the clutch pedal free-play.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper transaxle operation.
See Figures 1 through 16
Fig. 1: Typical clutch alignment tool-note how the splines match the transaxles input shaft
Fig. 2: Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...
Fig. 3: ... then carefully remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel
Fig. 4: Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat
Fig. 5: If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ...
Fig. 6: ... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order to replace it or have it machined
Remove the transaxle assembly.
During the removal procedure, do not allow oil or grease to come in contact with the clutch disc facing if the disc is to be reused. Handle the disc with clean rags wrapped around the edges and do not touch the disc facing. Even a small amount of dirt or grease may cause the clutch to grab or slip.
If the pressure plate is to be reused, paint or scribe alignment marks on the pressure plate and flywheel for assembly reference.
Install an appropriate locking tool to prevent the flywheel from turning.
Install a clutch aligning tool to prevent the clutch plate from dropping when the retaining bolts are removed.
Loosen the 6 pressure plate retaining bolts in an alternate pattern, one turn at a time; this will relieve the pressure plate spring tension evenly and prevent distortion of the pressure plate.
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc once the retaining bolts are loosened.
Inspect all clutch components including the clutch release fork and release bearing, and replace as required.
Inspect the flywheel for scoring, cracks and heat checks. Resurface or replace the flywheel, as necessary.
Inspect the pilot bearing for damage. Make sure the bearing turns easily. If replacement is necessary, remove the flywheel and the pilot bearing.
If necessary, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool. Use only a driver tool that contacts the bearing outer race. A driver tool that contacts the inner race or the bearing area will damage the bearing.
If the flywheel was removed, clean the sealant from the flywheel retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with a suitable sealer compound.
Make sure the crankshaft flange and the back of the flywheel are clean. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft and install the 6 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm).
Position the clutch disc on the flywheel and install a clutch alignment tool to hold the disc in place.
When installing the clutch disc, make sure the disc dampener springs are facing away from the flywheel. A new disc will be stamped FLYWHEEL to indicate the correct installation position.
Align the reference marks, if present, and position the pressure plate on the flywheel, then install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly, in an alternate pattern, to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). The bolts must be tightened in this manner to prevent distortion of the pressure plate.
Remove the clutch alignment tool.
Clean the clutch disc splines on the input shaft with a dry rag and coat the spline surfaces with a light film of clutch grease.
Install the transaxle.
Lower the vehicle.
Adjust the clutch pedal free-play.
Road test the car and check for proper clutch operation.
Fig. 7: Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a threadlocking compound to the flywheel bolts
Fig. 8: Check the pressure plate for excessive wear
Fig. 9: Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch
Fig. 10: Install a clutch alignment arbor, to align the clutch assembly during installation
Fig. 11: Clutch plate installed with the arbor in place
Fig. 12: Clutch plate and pressure plate installed with the alignment arbor in place
Fig. 13: Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align
Fig. 14: You may want to use a threadlocking compound on the clutch assembly bolts
Fig. 15: Install the clutch assembly bolts and tighten in steps, using an X pattern
Fig. 16: Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts
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