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Hammer Time
Hammer Time, L1 Master Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 4942
Experience:  ASE Mastertech with Adv level Engine performance cert.
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1995 Toyota Camry: automatic transmission, 4 cylinder..stalls..rain

Customer Question

1995 Toyota Camry, automatic transmission, 4 cylinder, EFI, stalls in rain and wants to stall when stoping at lights after driving. I have taken to repair 3 times and cant find whats wrong. Please help.
Submitted: 11 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
Most of the time, problems that only show up in wet weather are usually connected to the secondary (high voltage) parts of the ignition system. These are the plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil. If it hasn't had a good tune up in a while, I would replace the plugs, ignition wires and the distributor cap and rotor. That should solve the problem.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Plugs, Distributor, Wires, Fuel filters have all be replaced within this year.

The car is the worst when raining. Studdering and hesitation. Starting up it acts up immediatly whether raining or not but as I said it will be the worst when raining and be moderate or seldom when sunny outside.
When I put gas treatment in the tank it seemed to calm it down a great deal for awhile then pick back up again.
The breakdown issue goes as if I'm parked in a place or going really slow and the RPM needle is bouncing back and forth, the car starts to studder heavily every 3 seconds and continue that pace until either it breaks down, just continues to do it, or I speed up and that seems to fix it, when I'm over 20-30mph but when I'm accelerating to that speed it will sometimes hinder the acceleration and cause studdering to get to that point.
Sometimes what will happen is I'll start up the car, the studdering will start, and I'll rev the engine and that will calm it down a great deal...
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
The tach signal jumping around is key. That indicates an issue with trigger signals for the ignition. The moisture factor would indicate a wiring contact or connection issue. Go over all of the ignition components and check the plug connections. Look for discolored blade contacts. If you can, use a real small pick to try to tighten the spring contacts in the plugs. This includes plugs at the distributor, external igniter and any connecters in the wiring harness. Check any engine or chassis grounds for corrosion or loosenes. You could try using a spray bottle with water in it and start misting over things to see if you can trigger the problem in a controlled situation.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: I will check wiring contacts and ground this weekend (you wouldn’t happen to know the resistance min / max of the ground would you?) along with EGR valve, distributor, ignition coil, coolant sensor, and IAC valve. Thanks
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
I wouldn't worry too much about the sensor values. They aren't causing that. You have a primary ignition signal problem. Concentrate on anything to do with that. There is no resistance spec on a ground. Ideal is not to have any but under 10 ohms is acceptable throughout the entire circuit.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Spent whole weekend troubleshooting and came up with squat. I did replace Dist, Rotor, plugs, wires, PVC valve and distributor/coil. The car ran great and I thought it was the end. Well after applying water problem was still there. I then proceeded to checking all electrical connectors and found none with corrosion or water saturated. Some had a little water and I will attempt to rectify this today. I’m going to see if I can get some electrical plug sealer. Ill seal all the plugs. I did find some water getting in the EGR system to EFJ from the VSV. I removed it cleaned out lines and EGR modular but problem still their. Checked and cleaned all the grounds I could see and their were a few. Checked to see it the vehicle had spark when dead and it did, checked if vehicle was getting fuel while dead and it does. Vehicle really died on me yesterday and wouldn’t start for over 4 hours so I gave up got up this morning and RUMMM starts right up like nothing happened. Ill be taking it to see if it has any codes this after noon and go from there.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Drove the car about 3 miles down the road and first stop sign it dies. For 2 hours it wouldn't start. When it did I couldn't get it above 1000 it kept dieing when I hit the accelerator. Finally it went above 100 and when I put it in gear it would knock and die I could get the RPMs above 800. It finally kicked in after about 10 minutes of starting and putting it in gear and I drove it home but couldn't give it gas because every time I would push the gas pedal to the floor it would start bucking and knocking and sputtering. But it got their.
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
Your not looking for water in a plug. Your looking for discolored terminal blades that would indicate overheating of the connection. A terminal spade that gets a blackish color has a bad connection. The water was only to duplicate the conditions that it usually acts up.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Yes I am aware of that when you have two connections to make one and they are loose it will heat up or arc. But as I said I found dirt oil and very little water. I really wish I did and I could feel better. I did find water down in the spark plug holes today late and I will investigate that tomorrow. I have removed every wire plug that I can see and it doesn't affect the eng. I've checked most of the vacuum hoses and they all look pretty dang new. I believe I've checked and rechecked 3 maybe 4 times thinking I missed something. Thats how I found the water down the plug holes today. Apparently I have because now the dang thing wont run. I'm going to give it one more try tomorrow unless you have some other idea Ill just call the dealership and see what they come up with. They have surprised me a couple times.
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
I's put a lot of time into your question and helped you with a lot of advice. I would appreciate you clicking on the accept button at this time to complete the transaction.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Hammer Time's Post: Maybe I don’t understand what you want here. You want me to pay you now and my problem still exists. Then I have to open a new question and pay them too because this one will close out. I believe in the last reply I asked you what else could be done. I can’t see all the replies at the moment that we’ve had but it circles all around looking for a short. I wish I found a short and I would have gladly paid you a $100 dollars. It’s probably 10 times more than the average person pays here but at this point and time I don’t feel I have what I need to pay this. You may have put some time in this problem and I appreciate the assistance. I still have the problem and you haven’t given me any other options except to look for a short. It mabe one, I just havent found it yet.
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
The question can be reopened after accepting and it's up to you if you want to accept any further answers. As a rule, most of us ignore the larger offers because they are rarely accepted and this one has gone on for some time. No one gaurantees they can solve your problem. We just give you the benefit of our experience and knowledge. Some problems just require a hands on inspection by someone that will recognize a problem when they see it. I'm happy to answer questions but I'm afraid the ball is in your court now to spot something. I'm the advice, but your the eyes.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Well I appreciate the help you gave but in my experience once you paid someone for something you don't ask for more or expect anything else whether the job was done complete or to your acceptance. I can not accept at this point and time because I feel their could be more help and were not going any where if I'm reading your replies right. If I could compensate you I will, let me know how. I will keep looking at the problem or take it to a dealership. If I do recognize the problem when I see it and you are right I will Accept. Until then thank you for your time and effort.
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.

Bill, I'm trying here.


Quote:
I did replace Dist, Rotor, plugs, wires, PVC valve and distributor/coil. The car ran great and I thought it was the end. Well after applying water problem was still there.


Since doing that have you remove the distributor cap to see if any loisture got in there? I don't know if you mean you sprayed a large amount of water right on the dist cap but they aren't made to take that. Did you notice where you were spraying at the moment it started? They are also supposed to have a rubber o-ring type gasket sealing the cap to the distributor. Make sure that is in tact. Your problem still sounds like one of the things in my first reply. A crack or other type voltage leakage in thhe distributor is my gut on this. A crack in the coil or distributor cap, corrosion at one of the plug wire terminals. Water accumulating in the spark plug hole will do that. If the problem is present, remove the distributor cap and use a blow dryer to completely dry everything in the cap and distributor, then drive it again. That may help isolate it.


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