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Hammer Time
Hammer Time, L1 Master Technician
Category: Car
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Experience:  ASE Mastertech with Adv level Engine performance cert.
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95 Ford: Van..quit working..hear fuel pump..Engine turns over well

Customer Question

95 Ford E150 Van quit working. Don't hear fuel pump sound. Engine turns over well. Fuses good. Worked fine 5 minutes ago. Just quit. Have had no problems with car working properly until this issue. No starting problems or running problems
Submitted: 11 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Marc replied 11 years ago.


What engine do you have.??
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Marc's Post: have 351. have checked the emergency switch and it is ok. Have disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter (replaced the fuel filter) and did not get any fuel flow when the key was turned to the on position(did not hear the pump running or the fuel pressure switch shutting off the pump). When the key was turned to the start position, still no flow. It is sounding more and more like I will have to change out the fuel pump. If you have any other suggestions as to what might cause this type of problem, that would be appreciated. I don't have my diagnostic computer with me, nor my manual and I didn't want to replace the pump unless it was the problem. I have almost 30 gallons of gas in the tank and I do not want to drop the tank unless it is the only problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Expert:  Marc replied 11 years ago.

Here is a wiring schematic so you can be positive that it's the pump use drawing on far right side.


May I suggest you start with the fuses and then go back to the pump and check for power.


Remember the pump only gets power for a few seconds after the key is turned on until you crank the engine.


I will look for a flow chart to help you with diagnosis but not sure it is available.


SORRY I LOOKED CAN NOT FIND DIANOSTIC FLOW CHART









Expert:  Marc replied 11 years ago.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



In-Tank Pump


See Figures 1 through 5


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: Typical in-tank electric fuel pump assembly



The electric fuel pump used in these models is located in the fuel tank and is removed as a unit with the fuel sender.




  1. Release the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  2. Remove the fuel tank.



  3. Place the tank on a workbench and clean the dirt from around the pump/sender assembly locking ring area.




    1. Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to remove it.



  4. Lift out the fuel pump and sending unit. Discard the gasket.


On E-series cutaway vans, the pump and sending unit is retained by bolts.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: A special tool is usually available to remove or install the fuel pump locking cam



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: A brass drift and a hammer can be used to loosen the fuel pump locking cam



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: Once the locking cam is released, it can be removed to free the fuel pump



To install:




  1. Clean the pump mounting flange and put a light coating of grease meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B or its equivalent to hold the new gasket in place.



  2. Place a new gasket in position in the groove in the tank.



  3. Place the sending unit/fuel pump assembly in the tank, indexing the tabs with the slots in the tank. Make sure the gasket stays in place.



  4. Hold the assembly in place and tighten the locking ring clockwise.



  5. Connect the fuel lines and wiring.



  6. Install the fuel tank.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: The fuel system may be equipped with a cut-off switch; refer to underhood labels or your owner's manual for more information




External Pump


See Figures 6 through 12


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 6: The external pump is mounted on the frame rail



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 7: Unplug the fuel pump electrical connections





  1. Depressurize the fuel system.



  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  3. Disengage the pump electrical connections.

CAUTION Never smoke when working around gasoline! Avoid all sources of sparks or ignition. Gasoline vapors are EXTREMELY volatile!


  1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.



  2. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines.



  3. Remove the pump from the mounting bracket.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 8: Use a prytool to disengage the fuel line retaining clip



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 9: After the clip is loosened, grasp it and pull it from the line



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 10: Unfasten the pump to bracket retainers



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 11: Disconnect the front fuel line from the pump



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 12: Slide the pump out to gain access to the rear fuel line and disconnect it in the same manner as the front



To install:




  1. Make sure the pump is indexed correctly in the mounting bracket insulator and tighten the retainers.



  2. Engage the fuel lines.



  3. Lower the van.



  4. Connect the negative battery cable and check for leaks.



VOLUME TEST




  1. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm.




  1. Open the hose restrictor and catch the fuel in the container while observing the time it takes to pump 1 pint. 1 pint should be pumped in 20 seconds. If the pump does not pump to specifications, check for proper fuel tank venting or a restriction in the fuel line leading from the fuel tank to the carburetor before replacing the fuel pump.



GAUGE TEST


See Figure 13




  1. Connect a fuel gauge to the pressure test point (shrader valve) on the fuel rail.



  2. With key ON engine OFF the readings should be as follows:




    • 1989-94 4.9L engines: 50-60 PSI (345-415 kPa)



    • 1989-94 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L engines: 35-45 PSI (240-310 kPa)



    • 1995-96 all engines: 35-45 PSI (240-310 kPa)



  3. With key ON engine ON the readings should be as follows:




    • 1989-94 4.9L engines: 45-60 PSI (310-415 kPa)



    • 1989-94 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L engines: 30-45 PSI (210-310 kPa)



    • 1995-96 all engines: 30-45 PSI (210-310 kPa)


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 13: Fuel pressure can be checked using an inexpensive pressure/vacuum gauge


































Customer: replied 11 years ago.
I am sorry that it took me so long to get an answer back to you. I was tring to get home after vacation. I was supposed to be home the 4th so that I could go to work on Tuesday, but I made it back on Tuesday to go to work on Wed. The info was helpful. I ended up having to remove the and replace the fuel pump. It ended up working intermittently. Once removed, it would work some times and not others. Changed it out and it has been working great. I appreciate your help and your timely responses. Fortunately I had all my tools (except my diagnostic computer) so the job went well. It is nice to have some folks helping out when you are away from home and because of your help with this, I will use this service in the future.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
How do I pay you for this. It was worth 10 dollars to me. Again thanks for your help
Expert:  John replied 11 years ago.
if you happen to check this again, or if it happens to you again, the reason it stopped working is due to filling up the tank repeatedly after it running.... the fuel pump will heat up, and when you add fuel, it cools down too quick and seizes, that's why you hear about a lot of cars breaking down with near full tanks of gas, if it happens anymore, try just hitting the tank with a hammer!
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
i do not see how to pay enginboy (marc) I had the deposit for 5 dollars and I would like to pay him the 5 that was in the deposit and 5 more. How do I do this?
Expert:  Hammer Time replied 11 years ago.
Just click on the accept button within one of HIS questions.

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