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Tech501
Tech501, Auto Service Technician
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Experience:  38 years exp, ASE Mastertech with L1 Advanced Engine performance
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1986 honda accord: I have it off but can get it out please help

Customer Question

how do you get a 1986 honda accord alternator out of the car.... I have it off but can get it out please help!
Submitted: 11 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Tech501 replied 11 years ago.
 

1986-89 Accord Halfshaft info is at the end.


See Figure 2




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  2. Elevate and safely support the vehicle.



  3. Remove the splash shield from under the vehicle.



  4. Disconnect the left driveshaft from the steering knuckle. Refer to Drive Train for procedure.



  5. Unplug the multi-pin connector from the back of the alternator. Remove the clip from the harness bracket.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: Alternator mounting on 1986-89 Accords





  1. Remove the terminal nut and disconnect the white wire from the B terminal.



  2. Remove the alternator pivot or upper bolt and nut, then remove the belt from the alternator pulley.



  3. Support the alternator; remove the through-bolt and remove the alternator.



  4. The alternator mount or bracket may be removed if desired.


To install:




  1. Fit the alternator into its mount; install the through-bolt finger-tight. Fit the belt onto the pulley.



  2. Install the upper alternator bolt. Make certain it goes through the eye of the adjusting bolt.



  3. Adjust the belt tension. Tighten the nut on the through-bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and tighten the upper bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).



  4. Install the white wire on the B terminal and tighten the nut.



  5. Install the multi-pin harness to the alternator and secure the harness clip(s).



  6. Reinstall the left driveshaft to the steering knuckle.



  7. Install the splash shield. Lower the car to the ground.



  8. Connect the negative battery cable.


 


Halfshaft info



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If so equipped, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as described in Chassis Electrical .



  2. Remove the wheel cover or hubcap from the front wheel and then remove the center cap.



  3. Pull out the 4mm cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the spindle nut. Loosen the lugnuts.



  4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Double check the stand placement and the security of the support.



  5. Remove the wheel lug nuts and the wheel.



  6. Pry up the lock tabs and remove the large spindle nut.



  7. Drain the transaxle.



  8. Using a ball joint separator, remove the lower arm ball joints from the knuckle. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckle.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: Use a ball joint separator to disconnect the ball joints



 




  1. On cars using a lower control arm, disconnect the stabilizer bar retaining bolts and free the bar.



  2. On later cars with the "wishbone" suspension, remove the damper fork bolt and the damper pinch bolt.



  3. To remove the halfshaft, hold the knuckle and move it outwards while sliding the shaft out of the hub.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: Hold the knuckle and move it outwards while sliding the shaft out of the hub



 




  1. At the inboard or transaxle end, pry the CV-joint out about 1/2 in. (13mm). Prying the axle outward causes an internal snapring to come out of its locking groove. Pry carefully to avoid damaging the oil seal.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Pry the joint out of the differential case ...



 




  1. Carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: ... then carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case



 


To install:




  1. Replace the snapring on the inboard end of the axle.



  2. Install the inner end of the axle to the transaxle. The splined fitting and clip must fit all the way into position; the clip will engage with a noticeable click. Double check it by prying lightly against it; don't pull on the CV-joint to test it.



  3. Pull the front hub outward and install the outer end of the halfshaft.



  4. Reassemble the suspension and steering ball joints. Use new cotter pins and new self-locking nuts for each fitting. Tighten the individual components as follows:




    • 1984-85 Accord: Stabilizer bar bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); lower ball joint 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm); tie rod castle nut, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).



    • 1986-95 Accord: Damper pinch bolt, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); damper fork or lower locknut, 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm); lower ball joint castle nut, 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).



    • 1984-95 Prelude: Damper pinch bolt, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); damper fork or lower locknut, 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).



    • 1984-87 and 1990-95 Prelude: Lower ball joint castle nut, 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).



    • 1988-89 Prelude: Lower ball joint castle nut, 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm ).




  1. Install the washer and a new spindle nut. Tighten the nut very snug but do not attempt to achieve final torque with the vehicle elevated.



  2. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.



  3. Tighten the spindle nut. Correct torque for the spindle nut is:




    • 1984-89 Accord: 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)



    • 1990-93 Accord: 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)



    • 1984-87 Prelude: 137 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)



    • 1988-89 Prelude: 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)



    • 1994-95 Accord and 1990-95 Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm)




  1. Use a drift or punch to deform the ring on the spindle nut into the groove in the axle. This locks the nut in place.



  2. Tighten the lug nuts.



  3. Refill the transaxle.



  4. If applicable, enable the SRS as described in Chassis Electrical .



  5. Connect the negative battery cable.

 









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