REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
All Except Multi-link Suspension
See Figures 1 through 6
Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
Remove the applicable wheel.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the shoes, springs and hardware. If equipped with disc brakes:
On models through 1975, place a wooden block beneath the brake pedal, plug the master cylinder reservoir vent hole, then remove and plug the brake line from the caliper. Be careful not to allow any brake fluid to spill onto the disc or pads. Remove the two bolts which retain the brake caliper to the axle housing, and lift off the caliper. Lift off the brake disc.
On 1976 and later models, detach the brake line and bracket from the rear axle, then remove the mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Use a piece of stiff wire to hang the caliper, with brake line still attached, out of the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line. Release the parking brake shoes as explained in Brakes.
On all models, remove the thrust washer bolts through the holes in the axle shaft flange. Using a puller (slide hammer), remove the axle shaft, bearing and oil seal assembly. If a slide hammer is not available, you have a couple alternatives. The first option is the brake disc may be bolted onto the axle backwards (remember to mount the nuts tapered side out) and used to pull the axle free. Or you may use a crow bar with its fulcrum set on a sturdy part of the dust shield to push from behind the axle. Be careful not to bend the dust shield. Use of a wood block to distribute the force (see photos).
Fig. 1: The brake disc may be bolted onto the axle backwards (with the nuts tapered side out) and used to pull the axle free
Fig. 2: Remove the data sending wheel before attempting to remove the axle bearing and seal-certain 700 series models
Remove the inner oil seal (1974-on) with a suitable puller or small prybar.
Fig. 3: Remove the bolts securing the drive axle at the wheel hub
Fig. 4: If a slide hammer is not available, you may opt to push the it from behind with a long prybar
Fig. 5: Have rags handy to contain the oil that will slop out with the axle upon removal
Using a press, remove the axle shaft bearing and its locking ring from the axle shaft. Remove and discard the old oil seal.
Some 700 series axles contain a toothed wheel used for sending speed data to the engine and other systems. This wheel must be removed in a press before removing the axle bearing and seal.
The new bearing must be packed with grease before installation. The preferred method is with a bearing packer (a low cost tool available at most automotive supply shops) but it may be done by hand if necessary. The bearing must be packed from one side until the grease comes out the other side. It is very important that the bearing be completely packed with grease before installation.
Fill the space between the lips of the new oil seal with wheel bearing grease. Position the new seal on the axle shaft. Using a press, install the bearing with a new locking ring, onto the axle shaft.
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<> <>When reinstalling the additional toothed gear on axles for 700 series, the gear must be installed precisely 116mm onto the shaft. The acceptable margin is ONLY plus or minus 0.1mm. If at all possible, use Volvo tool No. 2412 which will allow precise location of this gear. If this gear is not properly located, the car may not run properly.
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Fig. 6: The gear placement is critical with only a minimal margin for variance. If possible, use the Volvo tool No. 2412 shown
Install the inner oil seal (1974-on) in the axle shaft housing using a seal installation tool (such as Volvo No. 5009 or similar) and drift.
Install the axle shaft into the housing, rotating it so that it aligns with the differential. Install the bolts for the thrust washer and tighten to 36 ft. lbs.
Install the brake disc, caliper and pads. If equipped with drum brakes, reinstall the shoes, springs and hardware.
Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts with the car on the ground.