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Tech501
Tech501, Auto Service Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 747
Experience:  38 years exp, ASE Mastertech with L1 Advanced Engine performance
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install a new wheel bearing kit for the passanger rear...leads

Customer Question

I want to install a new wheel bearing kit for the passanger rear. I found the parts, but before I get started, I need to know if I have to purchase any specialty tools for the job. Also, does anyone have any leads to free online manuals or schematics so that I can complete this job? Everywhere I look, I can get the parts, but no instructions
Submitted: 11 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  jon_050 replied 11 years ago.
Vehicle make?
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to jon_050's Post: '89 volvo 240 dl
Expert:  Tech501 replied 11 years ago.
 

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


All Except Multi-link Suspension


See Figures 1 through 6




  1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.



  2. Remove the applicable wheel.



  3. If equipped with drum brakes, remove the shoes, springs and hardware. If equipped with disc brakes:




    1. On models through 1975, place a wooden block beneath the brake pedal, plug the master cylinder reservoir vent hole, then remove and plug the brake line from the caliper. Be careful not to allow any brake fluid to spill onto the disc or pads. Remove the two bolts which retain the brake caliper to the axle housing, and lift off the caliper. Lift off the brake disc.



    2. On 1976 and later models, detach the brake line and bracket from the rear axle, then remove the mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Use a piece of stiff wire to hang the caliper, with brake line still attached, out of the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line. Release the parking brake shoes as explained in Brakes.



  4. On all models, remove the thrust washer bolts through the holes in the axle shaft flange. Using a puller (slide hammer), remove the axle shaft, bearing and oil seal assembly. If a slide hammer is not available, you have a couple alternatives. The first option is the brake disc may be bolted onto the axle backwards (remember to mount the nuts tapered side out) and used to pull the axle free. Or you may use a crow bar with its fulcrum set on a sturdy part of the dust shield to push from behind the axle. Be careful not to bend the dust shield. Use of a wood block to distribute the force (see photos).


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: The brake disc may be bolted onto the axle backwards (with the nuts tapered side out) and used to pull the axle free



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: Remove the data sending wheel before attempting to remove the axle bearing and seal-certain 700 series models





  1. Remove the inner oil seal (1974-on) with a suitable puller or small prybar.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Remove the bolts securing the drive axle at the wheel hub



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: If a slide hammer is not available, you may opt to push the it from behind with a long prybar



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: Have rags handy to contain the oil that will slop out with the axle upon removal





  1. Using a press, remove the axle shaft bearing and its locking ring from the axle shaft. Remove and discard the old oil seal.


Some 700 series axles contain a toothed wheel used for sending speed data to the engine and other systems. This wheel must be removed in a press before removing the axle bearing and seal.




  1. The new bearing must be packed with grease before installation. The preferred method is with a bearing packer (a low cost tool available at most automotive supply shops) but it may be done by hand if necessary. The bearing must be packed from one side until the grease comes out the other side. It is very important that the bearing be completely packed with grease before installation.



  2. Fill the space between the lips of the new oil seal with wheel bearing grease. Position the new seal on the axle shaft. Using a press, install the bearing with a new locking ring, onto the axle shaft.

< cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=310> <> < vAlign=top width=10 colSpan=2 height=10> < vAlign=top width="100%" height=1> < vAlign=top width=10 colSpan=2 height=10> <> < vAlign=top width=1 bgColor=#8c8c8c height="100%"> < vAlign=top width=9> < vAlign=top align=middle width=290> < cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=290> <> < align=middle bgColor=#cc3333 height=15>WARNING <> < align=middle> <> <>When reinstalling the additional toothed gear on axles for 700 series, the gear must be installed precisely 116mm onto the shaft. The acceptable margin is ONLY plus or minus 0.1mm. If at all possible, use Volvo tool No. 2412 which will allow precise location of this gear. If this gear is not properly located, the car may not run properly. < width=9 height="100%"> < width=1 bgColor=#8c8c8c height="100%"> <> < vAlign=bottom align=left width=10 colSpan=2 height=10> < vAlign=bottom height=1> < vAlign=bottom width=10 colSpan=2 height=10>

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 6: The gear placement is critical with only a minimal margin for variance. If possible, use the Volvo tool No. 2412 shown





  1. Install the inner oil seal (1974-on) in the axle shaft housing using a seal installation tool (such as Volvo No. 5009 or similar) and drift.



  2. Install the axle shaft into the housing, rotating it so that it aligns with the differential. Install the bolts for the thrust washer and tighten to 36 ft. lbs.



  3. Install the brake disc, caliper and pads. If equipped with drum brakes, reinstall the shoes, springs and hardware.



  4. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts with the car on the ground.


 












Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Reply to Tech501's Post: Thanks...but no help. I need a more explodable view. ie: each individual part, and where it goes. I appreciate your response though.
Expert:  Tech501 replied 11 years ago.
 No, you need a repair shop . That's not a job for a novice and there is machine shop pressing involved.
Expert:  brandon replied 11 years ago.
i would agree with tech501, even learning how to do this in school it is a big job when your not sure how to do it and it does require things that you probably do not have at home to do the job correctly and to make sure everything is going to be installed as it should.
Customer: replied 11 years ago.
Tech, thanks for your concern, however, I have a machine shop press, and have the axle completed, and installed. I am not quite a novice. Almost, but not quite. The only thing I wanted to know was if any specialty tools were needed, (other than a press), and schematics. I just wanted to know the exact positions of parts for installation. It costed me $40, but I had a volvo dealer mail me schematics.
Expert:  Tech501 replied 11 years ago.
They sent you a parts breakdown from their parts manuals. Nobody but them has access to that stuff. What I sent you was written for a mechanic and is usually readily understood.

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