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Robertgrove
Robertgrove, Shop Owner/Educator
Category: Car
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Experience:  ASE Certified Master Tech, 25yrs Exp. Calif. State Certified Instructor
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My 1994 K1500 wont start, i..cables..sensors

Customer Question

my 1994 K1500 won't start, i've tried the starter and
battery and all the cables are good when i turn the key
all that happens is a click, what else could it be? is
there any sensors that would prevent it from starting?
i can roll start it and everything works fine

Daniel Skaug
Submitted: 12 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  bestservices replied 12 years ago.
It would have to be in the cable running to the starter from the battery. Try jumping the solinoid at the starter and see if it will turn over there. There are no sensors except a neutal safety switch or in case of a manual trans. a clutch switch located on the clutch pedel. Check and make sure you are getting full battery power to the starter.
Expert:  FeedMySheep replied 12 years ago.
 

The starting motor is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of producing a great amount of power for its size. One thing that allows the motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the starter's armature), which drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that only intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little allowance for air circulation is required, and the windings can be built into a very small space.



TESTING




  1. Make sure the battery is fully charged and that the battery terminal connections are clean and tight.



  2. Check the starter motor wiring for damage and/or open and shorted wires.



  3. Check that all starter motor electrical connections are clean and tight.



  4. If the starter motor cranks slowly and the solenoid clicks or chatters, test the starter motor as follows:




    1. Turn the ignition key to the start position.



    2. Use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage. Measure the cranking voltage at the battery terminal posts.



    3. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts check the battery.



    4. If the battery voltage is 9.6 volts or more continue with the test.



    5. Connect the negative lead of the DVOM to the battery negative terminal and the positive lead of the DVOM to the engine block.



  5. If the voltage is less than 0.5 volts, attach the positive lead of the DVOM to the starter B terminal and crank the engine.



  6. If the voltage reading is less than 9.0 volts, replace the starter motor.



  7. If the starter motor does not crank and there is no sound from the solenoid, test the starter motor as follows:




    1. Turn the headlights and the dome light on.



    2. Turn the ignition key to the START position.



    3. If the lights stay bright, turn the radio, heater and turn signals on.



    4. If the accessories you have turned on do not operate properly, check the bulkhead connector fusible link and the ignition switch connections.



    5. If the accessories operate properly, continue with the test.



    6. Make sure the ignition key is still in the START position.



    7. If your vehicle is equipped with a automatic transmission, using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage, connect the negative lead of the DVOM to the battery negative terminal and the positive lead of the DVOM to the starter S terminal.



    8. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, replace the starter motor.



    9. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or less, attach the positive lead of the DVOM to the ignition switch solenoid terminal.



    10. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, repair the purple wire from the ignition switch to the starter.



    11. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts, replace the ignition switch.



    12. If your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage, connect the negative lead of the DVOM to a good known ground and the positive lead of the DVOM to the neutral/start switch. Turn the ignition key to the START position and depress the clutch.



    13. If there is more than 9.6 volts present at one terminal, test the switch connector and adjustment. If the adjustment and connector are functioning properly, replace the switch.



    14. If there is less than 9.6 volts present at both terminals, make sure the ignition key is still in the START position.



    15. Test the voltage at the ignition switch solenoid terminal.



    16. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, repair the yellow feed wire from the ignition switch.



    17. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts, replace the ignition switch.



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6


The following is a general procedure for all trucks covered in this information, and may vary slightly depending on model and series.




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.



  2. Raise and support the vehicle.



  3. Disconnect and tag all wires at the solenoid terminal.


Reinstall all nuts as soon as they are removed, since the thread sizes are different.




  1. Remove the front bracket from the starter and the mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 1: Starter mounting location-4.8L engines



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 2: Starter mounting location-4.3L and 5.0L engines



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Starter mounts-5.7L and 7.4L engines





  1. Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter, front end first, then remove the unit from the truck.


To install:




  1. Position the starter and tighten all bolts as follows:


R/V Series:




  • Thru-bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)



  • Bracket bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)



  • Nut (gas): 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)



  • Nut (diesel): 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)


C/K Series:




  • Thru-bolts: 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)



  • Bracket bolt (diesel): 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm)



  • Nut (diesel): 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm)




  1. Reconnect all wires.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: Remove the starter retaining bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle




SOLENOID REPLACEMENT




  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



  2. Remove the screw and washer from the field strap terminal.



  3. Remove the two solenoid-to-housing retaining screws and the motor terminal bolt.



  4. Remove the solenoid by twisting the unit 90 degrees.



  5. To replace the solenoid, reverse the above procedure. Make sure the return spring is on the plunger, and rotate the solenoid unit into place on the starter.
















Expert:  Robertgrove replied 12 years ago.

 Daniel,


there is a lot of good information in the other posts, lets see if I can help put it all into perspective.


you've said the starter has been replaced and the cables are good and all it does is "click",  also it push starts, so you must have a standard trans and we can rule out a mechanical problem with the engine.


 It sounds like an electrical problem from the symptoms and with the starter already replaced that leaves the cables, wires and connectors, clutch switch and ignition switch.


There are only three basic circuits related to the starter in your truck


1. the positive circuit, (positive battery cable) which runs from battery positive to the large terminal on the starter motor


2. The ground circuit which runs from battery negative to the starter housing (this includes the negative battery cable, the engine block and the starter case)


3. the "crank circuit" which inludes the ignition switch and the clutch switch (on a manual transmission). this circuit runs from the battery positive (using the battery cable) and goes thru the harness to the ign switch then to the clutch switch and back out to the starter "S" terminal on the starter.


Do the easy stuff first, make sure the cables are tight - AT BOTH ENDS OF THE CABLES - at the battery and at the starter and engine block.


I suggest loosening the clamps and the bolts/nuts  at the block and starter slightly and turning them back and forth a few times to breakup any corrosion, then tighten them.


Next make sure that none of the cables or wires are laying against a sharp edge, or the exhaust manifold.


Now, lets do a quick check of the starter, cables and solenoid.


With the truck in neutral and the emergency brake set (both these steps are critical for your safety!) use a jumper wire or test lead at the starter and connect the 'S' terminal (the smaller purple wire) to the terminal with the battery cable attatched. your are applying power the the solenoid the same way the ignition switch does.


If the engine cranks then the problem is in the "crank" circuit and the positive and negative circuits, starter and solenoid are ok. Next go under the dash and disconnect the clutch switch connector at the clutch pedal and put a paper clip or jumper wire between the purple wire and the yellow wire.


turn the ign to the "CRANK" position to start the truck. If it starts then replace the clutch switch assembly if it still won't start then the problem is the ign switch or a wire in the "crank" circuit which may be difficult to find.


Good Luck,


 


 


 

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