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ElectronicsPete, Electronic Engineer
Category: Car Electronics
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Experience:  Over 16 years of experience installing and repairing electronics.
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I have a viper 3305v that doesn't respond with confirmation

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I have a viper 3305v that doesn't respond with confirmation chirps or they're very very soft, doesn't lock/unlock doors, dash/parking lights remain on when disarming and only shut off when rearming or parking brake release handle below the dash is allowed to snap back(pickup truck). All stock switches function, one tap from the alarm to the headlight switch was replaced with a butt connector because the tap cut the wire. Previously the door locks sometimes would be triggered by bumps. Where should I start first? Figured there is a bad connection in the alarm somewhere.
Customer: replied 7 days ago.
Just tried unlocking the door with the keys and opening them with the alarm armed. The dash led flashes rapidly and the siren chirps rapidly but very quietly, maybe low voltage? Alarm doesn't go into the full alert routine with all the different noises, just rapid chirps. Dash, parking and tail lights stay lit, and the key fob signals are not received by the alarm. Engine starts just fine but alarm does not reset, not sure what the valet button is set to but as soon as the engine is off, the alarm goes back to how it was when the door was opened and the alarm was triggered.

Hi, I'm Pete. Welcome to JustAnswer! I'm reviewing your question now, and will post back with your reply ASAP.

First, test the vehicle's battery to check if it is low voltage; charge or replace it if it is.

If the battery is ok then you will need to check for a bad earth somewhere - first redo all of the ground connections for the alarm system.

If it still doesn’t work properly after redoing the grounds, then you will need to use a multimeter to trace the wiring.

Set the multimeter to read ohms (resistance) and probe the battery’s negative stud and ground connection on the alarm. If you have a reading less than 5 ohms, the ground is OK. If the reading is greater than 5 ohms then something is amiss with the wiring.

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Customer: replied 5 days ago.
Ok, so just to be sure, I can run a wire from where the alarm is grounded to the chassis to one of the multimeter probes and then touch the negative battery terminal with the other probe it doesn't matter which probe is used? And what would checking the wiring entail, testing the contacts in the harness for continuity?
Customer: replied 5 days ago.
Battery is fine btw, over 12 amps while parked, 14.3 while running.

Yes that is correct, it doesn't matter which probe is used.

Just ensure the meter is set to measure resistance.

Yes, checking the wiring would entail checking all of the contacts for continuity, and will be a bit of a pain!

A local garage or installer may have a diagnostic kit which can trace a fault like this in seconds instead of trying to trace it manually.

Hi, just checking in on your question. How did things turn out for you?

Customer: replied 4 days ago.
Ok this is getting ridiculous, the ground reads between 2-4ohms. I just so happened to plug the harness back into the alarm module and it goes off full blast. The shock sensor module was disconnected, the led, only the main harness was plugged in just enough to make a connection I didn't disconnect the battery negative, but all the fuses are still intact Going to check it again tomorrow and hook it back up somewhere not outside my apt building and see if I can get it to respond to the key fob.

Ok, if the ground is good then the alarm unit itself may be suspect.

Let me know how you get on.

Customer: replied 3 days ago.
Ok I connected everything and reset the alarm and the only issue is the door locks operating themselves. It happens when there is some rocking or body movement as the vehicle hits bumps/stops or entering driveways but it also happens while slowly turning into a parking space on smooth concrete. Recently I rerouted and zip tied the alarm harness that goes to the smart junction box but it's wrapped in flex tubing. I haven't touched the harness the alarm taps into but I have removed just one fuse at the SJB for the restraint control module as part of deactivating the airbags to remove the seats. Other than that I'm not sure what could be causing the alarm to send pulses to the door lock relay other than a couple cockroaches or two wire taps clamped on wires that aren't connected to anything. I'm guessing those taps were left there from testing during installation.
Customer: replied 3 days ago.
I'm thinking remove all wire taps and replace with butt connectors.

Yes there is definitely something amiss in the wiring - perhaps one of the wire taps has become loose and is connecting intermittently, or is shorting out to the car body - ensure all butt splices are well insulated when you replace them.

Customer: replied 3 days ago.
Ok so I noticed that turning the wheel while stationary will set off the door locks too. After running some errands I get home and the alarm basically returned to the original problematic behavior. The parking lights stay on when disarmed and the siren chirps are very quiet. If I give the lower part of the dash below the steering wheel like where the hood release is attached a gentle tap with my knuckles the dash and parking/taillights will go off and the door ajar chime stops. It might not be the fuse box but some kind of short in the lower dash. The pic isn't my truck, it's an explorer but it's basically identical. Right now I have the lower dash trim removed for painting and some audio installation so the metal support the parking brake, OBD II and hood releaseare mounted to is exposed. I kind of feel like cutting the zip ties holding the alarm module and the shock sensor, rerouting the wires so they're not in contact anywhere with the dash and testing how it works. The modules are zip tied to other wires/harnesses so if that doesn't work I'm contemplating just using them for target practice.

If it happens when you turn the steering wheel then the movement could indeed be putting some stress on the wiring loom, and possibly one of the conductors is stretched/broken and connecting intermittently, or is loose or shorting out. Sounds like you are homing in on the issue!

Customer: replied 2 days ago.
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Customer: replied 2 days ago.
Sorry, hit the request call button by accident. The first pic is from below the dash, nothing is attached to the rotating part of the steering column. The hood release cable is mounted to the metal dash reinforcement just below where the alarm is. The alarm is zip tied to the two connectors on the left with the greenish wires running into them. The bundled up black wire in front of those connectors is the mic for the 506T glass break sensor.The second pic is of the same area just from the front.

Are you able to test the individual wire conductors?

ElectronicsPete and other Car Electronics Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 day ago.
I got a fluke 333 clamp meter and a cheap multimeter. Ive been doing some thinking though, none of the problems happen when the alarm is disconnected. So ultimately the alarm is the issue right? I even noticed that when the alarm is acting up the truck will chime when the door is open like the key is in the ignition but it isn't. Even the column shifter causes the lights to flash when moving it into gear at times and the headlight switch is off. I've been inside the dash a few times before disassembling for paint and to install audio wiring but I don't zip tie new wires to stock harnesses or connectors. The power cables pass through the same hole in the firewall as the main harness from the underhood fusebox and the wires from the alarm that trigger the door lock relays pass by an alpine ktp-445a amp and run next to its harness through the center of the dash but they're not physically touching or zip tied together.If it's worth checking the individual wires in your opinion, then walk me through it. The alarm only has maybe a couple dozen wires, I don't think checking any of the stock wiring is going to lead to a solution since all the fuses are good and there were zero problems when the alarm was disconnected.
Customer: replied 1 day ago.
Took apart the housing on the steering column and there was a definite improvement. If I played around with the shifter, every so often when going from reverse to park the lights would flash. Ford column shifters are a bit clunky sometimes and it seems when going from park to reverse or the opposite really slowly is when it would happen. Door lock activation was greatly reduced though. I do have a workshop manual for this truck with the wiring diagrams if that's helpful.

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