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bluextc89, Small Business Owner
Category: Car Electronics
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Experience:  MECP Certified, Car Audio Pro 17 Years. Shop owner 5 years.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a dual amp set-up for my Dodge

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Looking for a wiring diagram for a dual amp set-up for my Dodge Dart. The following is what I have and just want to confirm the wiring set-up. Diagram would be the best or a step by step would do if you cannot do a diagram but would really like a diagram more.
1 only Kicker 300W - 1 channel amp ( for Subs )
1 only Kicker 200W - 4 channel amp ( for Speakers )
1 only Kicker 300W - 12" X 2 ( C12 ) Subwoofers in sealed box. 150RMS ea.
1 only Kicker Pair - 6X9 rear speakers
1 only Kicker Pair - 4" front speakers
1 only Kenwood - Head Unit w/ NAV Screen
1 only DBlink - Distribution Block 4 AWG In and ( 3 ) 8 AWG out
1 only Wirez - 4Gauge Install kit and Twisted RCA Cables

Thanks in advance

david :

Hi thank you for your question hope this helps.
Bear with me on this one it has been a long time since I wired for sound.

Dual amp system powering speakers by 4-channel amp & sub-woofer by a 2-channel or mono block amp.

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Installation Tips

A power amplifier's performance is only as good as its installation.Proper installation will maximize the system's overall performance.
It is recommended that you have our product installed by an authorized Sound-stream retailer. However, if you decide to install it yourself, please follow these safety tips and take your time to do a quality installation:

Fuse amplifier's power wire at the battery.

Be sure to fuse the power wire within 12" of the car's battery. This will protect the car's battery in case of a short circuit between the power amplifier and battery.
THIS IS A MUST, the amplifier's built-in fuse will only protect the power amplifier not the car's battery.

Use high-grade wire connectors. Use Proper power wire size for maximum current transfer and safety. Improper size power and ground wire can reduce the amplifiers power and poses a risk of damage to the amplifier and the vehicles electrical system. Please follow the recommended "Amplifiers Power Cable Requirements" to ensure maximum power transfer and safety.

To ensure maximum power transfer and secure safe connections, it is recommended to use high-grade barrier spades (for connection at amplifier) and terminal rings (for connection at battery).

Do not run any wires underneath vehicle. Exposed wires have a chance of being cut or damaged. It is best to run all wires through the vehicle under the carpet and/or side panels. This lends to a cleaner installation and less risk of damage.

Use caution when mounting amplifier. Remember there are many electrical wires, gas lines, vacuum lines, brake lines, as well as a gas tank in the automobile. Make sure you know where they are when mounting the amplifier to avoid puncturing lines, shorting wires, or drilling holes in the gas tank.

To avoid possibility of induced noise from the car's electrical system (i.e. popping noises or engine noise), Keep signal wires (Speaker or RCA) away from any electrical wires.

In order to reduce the chance of ground loops (i.e. engine noise); make the grounding wire as short as possible to reduce the wire's resistance. Also, when using multiple components, make sure all units are grounded at the same point.

Avoid sharp edges when running the wires. When laying wiring inside the car, watch for welding burs in channels throughout the car. If necessary adequately grind, finish sand or fill in around any ruff spots so wires will not be punctured by sharp protrusions. Use a grommet to protect the wire when running through the firewall.

Things to think about with this install.

Fuses, Cable Gauge, Capacitors…


I'll bet you think your amplifier fuses are there to protect you amplifier to avoid failure, right? WRONG! While properly fused electronics can save the product if there is a problem, this is not why fuses are required. The reason fuses are so important is because they are what can save your vehicle from a meltdown!

How many times have you had an amplifier keep blowing a 20-30 amp fuse? How many times have you just put the next size higher in the fuse holder? If you answered 1 or more, slap yourself dummy! It is critical that all electronics be fused and with the Proper size fuse. A fuse too small my blow prematurely or frequently. A fuse too big may allow the product to damage your vehicle. Let's face it, it's easier and cheaper to replace an amplifier than it is to replace a vehicle or at least its fuse panel and wiring. Now, some amplifiers do not have fuses on them. If this if your case, call the manufacturer and ask them what size fuse is required. If you have multiple amps and they are all fused at the amplifier, is all well and done? NO! Regardless of how many amplifiers you have, you MUST have a main in-line fuse from the power cable to the battery. This fuse needs to be within 18” of the battery, no exceptions! If you have 3 amps with a single 25 amp fuse, dual 40 amp fuses and a single 80 amp fuse, then what size do you use for the main fuse under the hood? Simple, add them all up to 185 amps. Since you will not find a 185 fuse, it is okay to add up to 20%, but no more than that or you're defeating the whole idea of protecting the vehicle. We know we can buy 80, 100, 150 and 200 amps fuses at any local shop. A 200 amp fuse is only 8% above the total fuse rating for the system. If you do not listen to the system at full volume all of the time, you can also put in a 150 amp fuse which is only 19% lower than the 185 amp rating and you be in an even better place as far as protection goes, and you never notice the difference…
Cable Gauge…
Do you ever wonder why some people use massive cable and wire in their vehicles when smaller cable also works? Because they're smart! In a system like we mentioned above, 185 amps of current is A LOT of power. That is why the cable from an alternator is typically 4 gauge. Here is the common problem… People buy 4 gauge thinking that because it is fairly hefty, that they can build whatever system they choose and power it with this 4 gauge power cable. To carry 185 amps of current, 4 gauge cable should not be used for any length! If your cable length is about 12'm, say for a pick-up truck, the cable needs to be 1/0 gauge! Now, let's say you're a genius and you have a more common system with a bad-ass Sound-stream 5-channel Tarantula TRA880.5 Amplifier. This amplifier requires a single 100 amp fuse. You can use 4 gauge power cable for this amp, as long as it is within 6 feet of the battery. Since you're hopefully not installing this on a motorcycle, you'll need approximately 12' for a small car or pick-up truck, and 18-20' for a larger car where the amplifier will be in the trunk. Based on the length requirements and 100 amps of current, you'd have to use a minimum of 2 gauge for the smaller vehicles and 1/0 gauge for a larger vehicle. Being cheap and skimping on the power cable size is foolish because if you run cable too small, you won't be able to pass enough current for the amplifier to operate at full potential. Please refer to our Gauge Chart to see what your system requires…

No not the flux capacitors in Doc's time machine! I'm talking about power reinforcing capacitors. Some people call them “stiffening caps”. Regardless, they do have their place in a system if used properly.
Charging capacitors properly is important so let's take a second to talk about the proper sequence. With the amplifier not hooked up to power and ground, first connect power from the capacitor to the amplifier. Second, connect the ground from the chassis or battery to the amplifier. Third, connect the ground from the amplifier to the capacitor. Fourth, place the charging bulb between the positive from the battery and the capacitor. When the capacitor is fully charged, the bulb will go out. At this point remove the bulb and attach the positive from the battery to the capacitor. There are right and wrong ways to make these connections. Please see schematics at the end of this article.
Caps do not make a system louder and is not a substitute for an auxiliary battery. Larger systems can put a power demand on the vehicle that the vehicle is not able to yield sufficiently. You will know if this is your problem because your lights will dim and the sound will become distorted due to amplifier clipping. SO, how much auxiliary capacitance do you need? The rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 1 Farad per 1000 watts, however, the more the better. Large capacitors can resolve this problem to an extent. The questions is, when to add a 2 nd battery and when to add a cap. A battery can cost considerably less, but the problem is that the battery needs to charged properly. Vehicle manufacturers do not give you a bigger alternator than you need. So adding another battery can put a heavy load on the alternator which can cause it to fail prematurely. Adding a high output alternator will resolve this problem, but can be expensive. Caps were introduced to market as a less expensive alternative, but are not as effective. Regardless, large caps can make a noticeable improvement in mid-bass and mid-high transient response. If your system requires slightly more power than the vehicle can produce or if you are just hearing a bit too much distortion due to amplifier clipping from a lack of sufficient power, than a cap(s) are the hot ticket. If you're building an SPL system, then caps are not a good substitute for batteries.

david :

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Thanks to Any car audio for the info.



No offense here but this looks like a general copy and paste from a booklet, I am pretty sure I have to ground the second amp, does it not need to be daisy chained to the remote wire on the first amp and I have a power block to provide power to the second amp so this does not help .... I would like a detail set-up on my set-up and not a general one as I can kinda figure that out myself. I would appreciate if you could pass this on to a expert that deals with this in a more daily fashion and thanks for trying.

I apologize for the earlier attempt at an answer, and want to assure you that is not how Just Answer typically works. It is an obvious cut and paste from another site, and has been reported.

Give me some time to put a diagram together - can you please reply with the model numbers of all of your components, so I can ensure the proper wiring for the amplifiers?


Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Sounds Great


Speaker amp ZX200.4

Sub amp ZX300.1

Dual Subs DC122

6X9 Speakers KS693

4" Dash Speakers KS400

Head Unit DDX418

Distribution Block and 4 gauge Wire

Amp and Subs are being set up where back seat was and the battery is in the trunk so the distisance is not like a typical car due to the battery in the trunk.



DC122 is a Kicker Prefab enclosure - final impedence 2 ohms - is this the way you are running the subs? In the original enclosure?
As promised: Custom wiring diagram for your setup... assuming a 2 ohm mono load on the ZX300.1


If you have additional - Just Ask.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Sorry for the delay, yes the sub box is prewire and has 2 RCA jacks running at 2 ohms. Still trying to do the last figuring out here.

1. Is 4 gauge wire to Distribution block ok with a pair of 8 gauge out to the amps.

2. Should ground wire from amps be grounded to same spot and close as possible

3. Should the RCA cables from Sub not go to head unit so it can be controlled there.

4. Each amp has 2 piars RCA....can you tell me which imput/out goes where.

5. What are the +- screw down connectors on the RCA side of the amp for.

6. What size fuse for the holder by the battery and what sizes for the dist. block.

7. Is there a diff on the red / white RCA jack as far as + and - go.

8. Are the amps adequate for this set-up.

Hopefully this should do it, I know some of this is pretty easy, just want to make sure.



1. Yes - 4 GA to DIST block.... 8 GA to amps.

2. Amplifiers can be grounded to the same place IF it is 18" or less from both amplifiers. If they are on opposite sides - use independent grounds.

3. You have not indicated any additional components - your radio does not have a dedicated subwoofer preamp output. The REAR RCAs are switchable. Be sure to dive into the menu settings and switch the rear output to SUB/ Non Fading.

4. The RCAs will go into the INPUT on both amplifiers. For the 4 channel - since you're only using 1 set... you'll need to use Y adapter cables to feed both sides. There is no internal pass-thru on this amplifier.

5. Those terminals are for the speaker wire - going to the subs.

6. Battery fuse should be 100A (protecting the battery) And the dist. block should have 60A for the Monoblock and 35A or 40A for the 4 ch. (slightly larger than the amplifier's built in fuse(s))

7. There is no difference in the RCAs. The (+) signal rides on the center (core) post - and the (-) shield goes around it. They are colored only for you to keep straight when connecting. Here is what a PRO version looks like:





8. The small 2006 model year 4 channel should be beefier. You're not going to notice much improvement over radio power with the 200.4. In the ZX 4 channel series... I would recommend MINIMALLY the 350.4. This gives 60W to each speaker in 4 channel mode and built-in adjustable crossovers. ALSO - the subs are rated at 300W RMS 600W Peak. You're only driving them @ 200W (assuming matching 2006 model year version). This will make you want to crank up the volume - causing clipping and distortion, and damage to the subs. A good pairing to these subs would be the zx400.1

zx200.4 Manual LINK
zx300.1 Manual LINK

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I thought this 2007 or 07DC122 Sub was 150W RMS per sub and X 2 = 300 watt and then the amp was matched to that so I would not over power the RMS Value of the sub. Correct me if I am wrong but isnt being a bit under on the amp better then oversizing the sub and popping the subs. Was told told match them to the RMS as opposed to the total overated wattage. Everything else is clear now except the RCA jacks. Do I use 2 pairs on the 4-channel amp and Y- them on the other end that goes into the head unit, same with the other amp 4 ends to amp and 2 ends into the head unit. Thanks again for all the help, we are getting down to the end now.


You will use 1 pair of RCAs on the Front output of the radio - to the amplifier - and at the amplifier - use y splitters to divide the signal to each side.

And you never want to match the amplifier's power to the subwoofer's. Music is dynamic. That's why speakers are given an RMS and PEAK rating.

RMS is what they will take all day long.
Through music transients - it is OK to put up to MAX power to them for short periods.

If your amplifier is 100 watts - and your subwoofer is 100watts - your amplifier will be over-worked, heat up faster, and lessen the overall life of it. Not to mention - you will be dissatisfied with the volume - and crank up the gains to 100% (instead of 75% or so. This causes distortion and clipping (squaring off of the sine wave) - which is more detrimental to the subwoofer than overpowering.

The 300W RMS - 600W PEAK sub enclosure should be matched with a zx400.1
The gain at 75% will be 300W. The amplifier will stay cooler, and give you increased volume capabilities without using the VOLUME on the radio.

You won't be satisfied with the zx300.1. If you already have it - use it. If you have not made the purchase - opt for the larger amplifier for better perfomance and life.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK .. so the diagram shows RCA jacks going to the 2nd amp .... we used the 4 RCA jacks on the back of the head unit and 2 on the 4 channel amp, now what about the other amp.
The REAR output on the radio - to the jacks marked INPUT on the sub amp.

Then go in to your radio's settings and switch the rear output to sub/non fading.
bluextc89, Small Business Owner
Category: Car Electronics
Satisfied Customers: 6556
Experience: MECP Certified, Car Audio Pro 17 Years. Shop owner 5 years.
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