Testing the speakers PRE-AMP will do no good.
The amplifier's output ICs (triggered with DATA BUS) will not switch unless there is power to the amplifier.
I really would like for you to check for a blown fuse under-hood.
The JBL amplifier shares Accessory power with the radio but gets Constant
power from a 30A fuse labeled "AMP" that is located in the fusebox under the hood. This circuit is not tested when you run diagnostics. Only the items using data bus are.
Next - please be sure you have power turn-on to the amplifier. (im going to assume YES since there is SOME audio output.)
You can use a simple test light or Multimeter set to DC 20x.
With the car off - probe the yellow wire (#34) on the amplifier's 24 pin plug. It should read 0 V
Switching the vehicle on, this same terminal should read approximately 12V DC
This (right) plug will not detatch.
The other 20-pin plug at the radio contains wires for the steering wheel controls and system data lines.
Check the Fuse under the hood - then probe for 12V at pin 34. If both are good - the amplifier has failed.
I have a call in to a buddy (Toyota Service Manager at largest dealer in the country
) to see if there are any recalls or known failures in the amplifier that would cause the signal to rotate speakers. (thereby proving
an amplifier failure)
If you would like to save $$ and have the amplifier REPAIRED instead of replaced... HERE
is a company I have used successfully on BOSE and JBL repairs out of Florida.E-mail[email protected]
Normal Business Monday Thru Friday 9am to 5pm EST
I'll re-post If there is any new information.
Thanks for using J.A.!
Edited by bluextc89 on 8/15/2010 at 2:51 AM EST