give me a second to read your description fully
I am not sure what you are asking so i have opted out and suggested another expert for you.
driver door master switch for power controls doesn't seem to be working, is the main problem and I am trying to figure out how to fix it, how to tell why it doesn't work anymore.
no fuses from both of the fuse boxes seem to have blown, all seem ok.
So you can't do antything with the switch at all?
I took that master switch out of the driver door to see if any connections may have come loose or off, but all connections are attached and seem fine, no corrosion. none of the buttons work now, not even the door lock button.
the rest of the doors work fine though
If you give me a second i can find a test procedure for you but it does sound like the switch went bad from what you have described
Is it possible that the switch got wet?
figured to ask you instead of having dealer charge me $100 to tell me it is a switch or circuit. I don't think it got wet and no spills on it.
one time before, it didn't work last month, I thought maybe when I started the car in a hurry, everything didn't set right, so I shut off the car and started it again, then those controls on the door worked again, maybe indicating it was going out?
Do you ever have problems starting the car?
no, it starts up fine each time mainly, no ignition issues.
Just asking because low voltage can do funny things
but on this car you can leave the radio system on, and when you turn off the car and remove the key from ignition, radio stays on until I open the driver door to get out of the car and then the radio would shut off for you, probably common in most newer cars I guess, but now that doesn't work either, so to me it is like no electrical reading from that door anymore, and the instrument panel stays lit until it eventually shuts off so the battery won't drain, the book says that it will in ten minutes if problems.
unless that master switch controls that too somehow?
have you had the vehicle scanned for trouble codes?
my On-Star system wouldn't be able to run any kind of diagnostic for that issue, right? My mechanic has scanned the car when I bought it 6 months ago and just had a catalytic converter o2 issue that he replaced before I bought it. But no other codes came up.
It depends on what kind of scanner your mechanic has. If you have codes for the body then it will not turn on the check engine light and you have to have a scanner that can read body codes.
can my mechanic put that machine on the system on the car and have it issue codes to see about this type of problem other than regular engine issues?
he has been able to turn off the engine light before with his machine.
is your check engine light on?
not anymore, it was for the same code for converter and O2 reading, it doesn't like the newer better converter they put on it, and mechanic says it may be O2 sensors since converter is brand new, but when I took the negative off the battery overnight, in hopes to reset the system on the car, the light now is off and I reset factory settings from the DIC computer on the dash, so it is all fine now, just have to reset radio stations. That didn't solve the problem though for the drivers door master switch.
well like i said you need a scanner that can pull body codes to make sure that you don't have a body control module that has gone bad. But it does sound like the switch.
Are you capable of testing the part yourself?
I can text my mechanic and ask him if he has a scanner that can check this too, before going to a dealer...I don't have a scanner but he is down the street.
give it a shot then
i can wait for alittle
ok, hope it is just the switch I can have replaced.
Sorry i can not give you a more detailed answer. If you are interested in trying to test it yourself then i can try to walk you through it but i would not recomend it if you are not familiar with testing electrical systems.
had a mechanic friend look at this issue, and found out that a negative ground wire connection that goes from the door panel to the dash, inside the rubber casing to protect it, is not connected, it is pulled apart, and he says it looked like that wiring had been worked on before because there are crimped connections soldered together, so it must have been an issue prior to me buying it. So he is going to reconnect it for me, an hour process and saved me the expense of buying a new master switch.
Great i am glad you were able to resolve your issue.