Did you say the dash lights start to flash with the key on?
Maybe alarm system?
Does the check engine light also flash with the key on engine off?
Does the check engine light flash consistant with a relay clicking sound?
Maybe alarm system going off?
WHat is the battery voltage at when this is happening?
Do we have power going to and coming out of the ignition switch when this happens?
no,flash is not consistant with a relay sound
no alarm on this car
new battery in car , cranks motor very well
yes, that was checked
Sorry for the delay!
We will have to pinpoint what the engine is missing.
All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. There are two way of checking for fuel. Fuel pressure and fuel trigger. Both are very important and must be present for the car to start. Fuel pressure is self explanatory. You just hook up the gage and see what the reading is. Fuel trigger is check with a noid light. The injector gets unplugged and the noid light gets plugged in to the injector clip. With the engine cranking over, this light must blink. This is the signal to the injectors from the computer. You can have all the fuel pressure in the world, but it wont matter if the injector is not pulsing gas into the cylinder like it should! Compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gage and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests.
A simpler test would be to see if it runs on starting fluid. If it does, then you know you have spark and compression and you simply have a fuel delivery problem
These things are present because the car runs and you can drive it short term like a 100feet at one time. But do you mean when it wont start to check for spark,fuel pressure and so on?
Yes... that is correct.
Next time this happens, see if it will run on starting fluid when it stalls out and does not restart.
Let me know!
There is never a no crank situation.There is a no start situation. Cranking volts 11.5 v
The car runs then dies then runs then dies. Does the security system have any electric control or fuel control that pertane to this problem.Batt light seems to effect running.During a no start situation it has spark and cranks over very well.
YES.. there is! THis is where I was going next.
You could have a bad lock cylinder causing this problem. THis is very common!
The wires inside of the lock cylinder break and the anti theft module cannot read the resistance of the key.
Check the operation of the passkey theft deterrent system. Check the resistance of the resistor in the ignition key from side to side.
Find the 48 pin connector to the side of the steering column, and disconnect it.
Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the 2 small White wires in pins E12 and E13 on the steering column side of the connector. These 2 wires connect to the contacts in the lock cylinder housing.
When the key is inserted in the lock cylinder, the resistance shown on an ohmmeter should be within 10 ohms of the actual pellet. The resistance should be accurate as the key is rotated to the crank, accessory position. If not, replace the lock cylinder housing.
Ignition KeyLock CylinderWiringTips: Make sure and rotate the ignition key to all positions while testing.
The key is on, motor not running. Nobody touching key switch , volt light,oil light,check engine light flash at random and under the hood all types of electric components clicking and fluttering.all this action nobody touching car but key switch still on.?
THis brings me back to my low system voltage. Check the battery voltage at the battery terminals and check the voltage at the fuses under the hood. IF they all have full battery power with key on, then check for voltage at the fuses inside the vehicle.
So what other relays have this low system voltage?
No other relays have chattering or low voltage.On fuel pump relay chattering voltage only on signal side of relay. Main power side of relay good.
So how many volts do we have coming out of the fuel pump relay?
Well, it sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere. Maybe inside the ignition switch or fuses or fuse block or power distribution center under the hood?
I would start by checking the voltage at the battery when this happens and work your way towards the fuses under the hood.
Here is a wiring diagram for your fuel pump relay.
I am only able to pull one diagram at a time.
Tell me what you would like a diagram for and I will send it over.
YES... the ecm and pcm are computers. ONe is a engine control module and the other is a power train control module.
Diagram for volt,temp,check engine light,
Here you go!
They were all in on place together so was able to pull three at once.
I hope this helps! You can always accept my answer now, and repost back again later on if you have any more questions. If you want to discuss it some more just hit "reply", it's free to do so otherwise don't forget to hit "accept" and leave positive feedback if you found my answer helpful.
You only have an ECM. Here is a picture.
Just check the grounds at the Ecm.