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Hello, my name is***** will assist you.
Would you please post the serial number of the engine?
How are you testing for the pulse?
Are you running the engine with the front of the air handler off to get to the harness to install the noid light?
Are you sure that you are not losing fuel pressure?
Is your Noid light a 4 pin? Mine is only a 2 pin.
What was the fuel pressure when you tested it?
Did you swap out part 28?
Try this one.
Ok, so it ran for a few after changing that? Did the doner engine run when the part was replaced back on it?
Does the alarm on the engine beep when you turn the key to the ON position?
Great. Your question says that you have already replaced the trigger, is that correct? If so, was the replacement new or used?
How long ago was that?
What did CDI say about the ECU? Was the Fuel injector driver bad?
How have you been searching? That ECU was used for some time
Where are you located in the USA? i am in AR. I have a day job in a repair shop and will come back online after 6PM CST tomorrow. Talk to you then.
Where are you located?
Ok, thats a bit far.
Rereading our responses, W
When you tested with the noid light, were you plugged into the harness from the engine, or the one going to the injectors?
What color of wire did you use as the hot wire? There are 4 wires there.
The red is the hot wire. The ECU controls the ground through the other colors.
Do you have a multimeter?
Disconnect the plug to the injectors, then using the meter, test the resistance between the red and the other colors going to the injectors. What do you get for the resistance on each?
Ok, they are all good.
When the engine will not start, do the gauges still work?
On the purple wire? Not a red?
Ok, Can you run the boat, make it fail, and when it will not restart, check the voltage on the back of the tach on the purple wire to the black wire, without touching the key first?
Battery voltage on the purple when the key is in the on position, but I dont want you to turn the key off when the engine dies, leave it on, and test the voltage first.
I would try that, and if you are losing power to the purple wire, replace the key switch or test for power on the back of it as well before turning the key off.
This is a really odd issue. I have not seen something like this in the field in 11yrs. But it could be just a key switch causing the problem.
Ok, try two tests. One with the temp senders plugged in and another with them unplugged. You may have a bad sender.
If you know someone with a scanner, you would need to have it hooked to the engine during the test as this ECU does not store codes once the key it turned off.
I do work in these everyday. That is my day job, I only do the online thing at night and on the weekends.
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