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First thing we need to take another fuel sample.
The rust on the spark plug, was it just one plug?
Did you index the spark plugs when you replaced them?
The software is not hard to use but you should have the diagnostic manual that came with it. Do you have the cable to the engine from your laptop?
Install the software. Connect the cable to the engine, turn engine to on and see what the software says. You can't hurt anything. Just don't re-map anything. the software will walk you through. What we want is to look at the faults.
By fuel sample I mean to put about 1 qt of fuel in a jar. let it sit and see if any water separates.
Download it to the desktop, open it and install. Actually works easy.
You could have a problem with the key switch, but not the control box. Disconnecting the battery won't reset the computer. It there is a hard code it will be in the memory.
You can get the software and cable from your Evinrude dealer or even off ebay.
You have water in the fuel. Remove the engine cowls and then the lower cowls. Once removed you will have access to the high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine. next to the pump is a chamber that holds fuel. remove the bottom most fitting. On yours it should push in on the band and then the fitting pulls off. Don't force it or you have an expensive repair. Drain all the fuel and with the primer bulb squeeze it until only fresh fuel comes out. replace the fitting and see how the engine does. Replace all the boat and engine filters.
If you look at the column LAST that is the last time in hours the fault occurred. Low oil was 200 hours ago. Water in fuel was 1741 hours, the most recent since the total time is 1744 hours. Not saying it isn't electrical, but the faults point to fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pump pressure?
OK couple things. On the side of the motor is the PDP, the fuse box. Remove the screws and take off the cover. Check all the fuses first.
Check the pump again. If still not running then remove the two trim relays, they are to the right, and then the two relays to the left. Swap them. Check the trim up and down. If the trim works up and down the relays are good. recheck the pump.
There is another larger main relay a couple inches back and on top of the engine. make sure this is working by using a test light with the relay pulled back just enough to get a reading.
The fuel pump should get 12 volts with the key turned ON, at least for a few seconds. Then you will lose the ground as the computer puts a ground on the pump to activate it. So you need to check for that as well.
Let me know.
Did you check the fuses? There is a 20 amp inline fuse as well. Main relay?
Check on wire J on the PDP, purple/white wire with key on. Use a probe to take a voltage test. What are your results?
Purple/white wire goes into the PDP on the left, there is a small J next to the wire, it's where the harness wires all go, a row of them. I'm on the road for a few hours, can do a phone deal then?
You can't damage anything but the engine will not run correctly, the EMM is programmed for your injectors.
The PDP where the fuses are.
The PDP where the fuses are. Did you swap the two relays? The one in your hand? what happens? It is appearing either the EMM is defective or a fault in the engine's wiring.
J should be a purple/white. Or is it a purple? Can you take a picture of your PDP?
Last picture I got was you holding the relay.
No that is the harness into the EMM. I need you to check the voltage going into the PDP, where the fuses are.
OK that's the PDP. Check the bottom left fuse, that is the fuse to the fuel pump. There is also a 20 amp inline fuse outside the PDP to the left, check that.
On the top wiring connector, you have a red, white, purple, white, black, red. Follow that black wire and see if it connects to a fuse and a purple/white stripe wire. That is the one you want to make sure the 20 amp fuse is good on and you have voltage out when the key is turned to ON. Take a paper clip straighten one end and gently but firmly push it in until it bottoms out. Use the paper clip to measure your + voltage coming from the PDP. That circuit is what turns your fuel pump on.
Also make absolute certain the emergency kill switch is working and connected.
It's the lanyard on the key switch.
That motor should definitely have a kill switch.
You have 12 volts at the 20 amp fuse with the key turned on?
Now go to the electric pump, there is a connector about 4" from the pump. Check on the engine side of the connector for + and - voltage with the key turned on.
With the diagnostic software connected and reading there is a test to test the fuel pump. Activate this test with the connector connected. What do you get?
On the PDP the bottom set of wires there is a purple/black in the B position. Check for voltage there with key on. Keep in mind the EMM only turns the fuel pump on for a few seconds. If you are turning the key on or leaving it on and then trying to do a voltage test it won't read any voltage. Have a helper turn the key on or use the software.
It would appear the wiring harness or key switch is bad. When the key is turned ON voltage flows through that 20 amp fuse. If you aren't getting voltage through the fuse it is bad.
On the start solenoid you have two large and two small terminals. One of the large terminals goes to the battery and has 12 volts all the time, unless you have a batteru off/on switch in the boat. This is where the key switch gets voltage. It is sent to the key switch and then when the key is turned ON back to the engine through the purple wire. When the key is turned to start it sends voltage to the yellow/red wire to one of the small terminals on the solenoid, the other is a ground. This activates the starter solonoid and sends battery voltage to the starter.
If you can't get the diagnostics to connect, and the engine won't turn over, and the fuel pump doesn't turn on then you have a problem in the wiring harness, it's connectors or the key switch. Check the connectors under the dash carefully. Same with the connectors at the engine, unplug them, make sure they are clean and then plug everything back up and see what you find.
Inside the PDP are a number of solder joints. It is not uncommon for the PDP to go bad and the wiring to be OK. What is strange is you getting some of the readings you got with a bad PDP. I'd go ahead and just replace the PDP and not the wiring.
Not sure about the blue wire at 10 can you send me a screen shot?
586545 does not come up as a good number.
Which EMM is on the engine? Using the diagnostic program clear all the codes in history.
On the second screen shot one thing that bothers me is the difference in the EMM temp and the engine temp, they should be close to the same. Remove the two water cooling hoses from the EMM and make absolutely sure the EMM is clean. Then reinstall the inlet hose. Take another hose and run it to the outlet side. Briefly start the engine and see is you get good flow out of the outlet. Shut engine down. Then reconnect the hose. There is a possibility that the EMM is running too hot or was previously damaged from overheating.
You need to check every connection, every pin on the engine. Something is not connecting properly. Also recheck the previous voltage checks I gave you. Don't do any more than what I specified, we don't want to get confused.
34 is an oil pump failure. The engine will not run properly and is the the SAFE mode.
Check for voltage on the #1 fuse, check voltage at white/blue wire at oil injector. no voltage suspect the PDP, again. You can try to activate the oil injector with the software, it should click.
Check the voltage at terminal G from the PDP, white/blue. If you can't get the oil pump to do anything and there is voltage the pump may be bad. If no voltage, the PDP. #1 is on the PDP.
Ck voltage at terminal 10 blue wire out of the EMM with the connector connected, use a paper clip to probe alongside the wire. You should have battery voltage.
I haven't had to replace a wiring harness. I have had to replace a stack of PDP's. You can use an ohm meter to check each wire one at a time, move it around etc. and see if it is bad. The PDP you just replace. So I would test the harness, replace the PDP.
I can't do video calls, not set up for it.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the output and watch the fuel pressure while monitoring the voltage. You can somewhat do it with the software. Also don't rev the engine in neutral over 2000 rpm. When the engine starts to stall, squeeze the primer bulb, see if the rpm picks up.
A pressure tester will tell you if the engine is producing the correct amount of fuel pressure and sustaining it. Remember it is a fuel injected engine.
If you rev the engine too high you can damage the engine or even cause a "run away" condition. In neutral there is no load on the engine so everything runs "looser" and not held quite in place. In addition the engine being computer controlled won't be able to compensate properly. You need the lower unit in the water, in gear anything above a fast idle.
Have you taken a sample of your fuel and double checked for water? Did you replace the engine fuel filter behind the plastic air silencer?
The engine is very precise on the quantity of fuel, the pressure and duration, and the proper spark timing. If any one is not correct the engine won't run right. Why just one working pump? Also in addition to the electric pump there is a lift pump on the front of the engine. If it is leaking into the crankcase it will run very rough if at all and flood the engine. But since you are having the problem on both engines the pump is more likely.
Your fuel pressure should be 20 to 30 PSI so it is OK.
You didn't swap any injectors did you?
Have you checked the lift pump for leaks?
Remove it and squeeze the primer bulb.
Remove the lift pump, leave the hoses attached and squeeze the primer bulb.
I'm not that concerned about the drop of pressure with the engine off. Start it and run it and see where it goes.
Rebuild or replace the lift pump. Evinrude does not offer a rebuild kit only an expensive replacement. If you want to rebuild it get kit # ***** DO NOT change anything but the gaskets and diaphrams, DO NOT replace any valves or springs.
If you replace it you can do it in about 10 minutes.
If it is leaking rebuild or replace it. The gaskets and rubber parts go bad. I would do both at the same time. I wouldn't bother swapping pumps.
The Ficht engines were problematic from the start. There is no where else to go other than try cleaning out the engine with some Quickleen, Ring Free or Engine Tuner, depends on what you can get.
The lift pump either leaks or it doesn't. Even a tiny leak will put too much fuel into the engine and cause rough idling.
I'm not sure where to go from here. I would recommend getting an OEM service manual and going step by step through all the troubleshooting procedures and checks.
Do we know it is just oil or a mix with fuel. Plugs should be brown, those engines had problems with carbon build up.
We have some shops that can clean the injectors here in the US, I have no idea about over there. They are not user cleanable. They are indexed to a particular cylinder, don't mix them up.