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Hello, my name i Charles. I will assist you with this.
Would you please post the serial number if the engine, so that I may see exactly what model you have?
No worries. Once I get the serial number I will be ready. I may need a few pics of what you have doing on there. The broken part, the shift shaft.
Have why you figured out WHY it broke yet. That is a very rare failure.
Ok got it.
Do you have the gear case on or off currently? How far is it torn down?
Ouch, that is not good.
So you need to replace both the upper and lower shift shafts?
Do you have access to some sort of a hoist system?
I did not see that you are in Aus. Please do not take the phone offer, it is for the US only.
The only way to replace the upper shift shaft is to pull the powerhead from the midhousing. Can you post a pic of it here, so I can see how bad it is?
The shift shaft has a arm on the top of it that keeps it from being able to be dropped out. Removing the powerhead is a good sized task, in the shop this takes a hours to do a job like this.
The lower is rather straight forward. just remove the cap from it, slide the old shaft out and then install a new shaft.
Yes, number 39 and 40 in this diagram. The shaft is 36.
The shaft is a single piece. You will need parts 3, 25, and 28. Along with gasket, 8M0024563, which is the powerhead gasket.
No sealant on the gaskets, they go on dry.
Yes, the powerhead comes completely off. Disconnect the battery cables, the trim motor, the control cables, the key switch harness, and a few hoses.
You will need to drain that as well. Replace it with Mercury 25-40.
not for the upper, no. Just the lower.
Yes. The oil sump is in the mid-section.
Yes, once the powerhead is unbolted, it will lift off. This is what it looks like.
The sump is actually below the adapter plate. The 8M part number that I sent you is the only gasket that you will need.
A fairly long 13mm wrench to reach two of the nuts located behind the muffler on the rear of the engine.
the wrench is a spanner or open ended. A socket wont work in there.
Have you thought about trying to see if someone can weld it back in place?
I think that it would be. You don't want to be out to sea and get stuck in Rev.
Your very welcome. Feel free to rate my service at any time, I always reply back to my customers.
It never really closes.
There is a lifting ring molded into the top of the block near the flywheel.
I am in the CST in the USA.
Mercury does make a lifting eye for this engine, this is what it looks like.
It is 7PM here. Monday night. I work a day job, so weekdays, I am here after 6 PM, weekends, I am on here most of the day.
Being as I work in a Mercury dealer, I have always used the lifting eye, but I know that at the plant, they use the ring. If you are planning on keeping this engine and doing all the work yourself, it is a good tool to have around. It will work on the 75-115 Four Stroke, 06 and newer, All Verado engines, and the new 75-115 Four stroke engines.
The nuts have the locktite in the threads already, none is needed there either.
The FSM fuel smell, could be a broken hose inside it. Did we replace a float, or a hose inside the FSM?
The only special tool is the lifting eye if you wanted to get it.
Yes, it is the venting of the MAP reference hose. You can test it by removing the end of the hose that connects to the intake, them try and blow through it. If you can move air or hear bubbles inside the FSM the hose is bad.
Sort of, as the FSM fills, the air inside it needs to go someplace. But if you do that simple test I sent, it will tell you if the hose inside the FSM is broken or not.
Sort of, the air inside the FSM needs to go some place as it fills, If you do that simple test, you will know if that hose inside the FSM is broken or not.
First is drain the oil from the engine, then remove the gear case. Disconnect the battery cables from the engine, the control harness and the control cables. At this point, move the boat to the hoist.. You will need to disconnect the fuel line to the engine Remove the lower pans, then take off the nits for the powerhead. Disconnect the trim pump wires, and any hoses that run from the powerhead to the adapter plate. Then you can lift is off.
Remove the gear case, drain the oil from it. Remove the 2 10mm head bolts that hold on the shift shaft cover. Use a screwdriver to start lifting the cover from the shaft. Then remove the cover, pull the shaft straight up and out of the shift link. Pull the shift straight up and out of the Lower uunt,
Install the new shaft, Make sure that you get it seated in the shift cam properly
yes just drop the lower unit. Have the shifter in Neutral.
When it is in correctly, the the "E" clip will be just under the base of the cover plate.
If you have the seals, replace them as well, if not, do not worry about it.
Grasp the shaft with a pair of pliers, wiggle it slightly back and forth as you pull up.
yes, remember that you seated it pretty good when it was not aligned properly.
Yes apply upward force on the shaft. It is a tight fit on the splines on the bottom of it. Even if you wanted to remove the prop shaft, the shift shaft has to be out.
Did the new shaft cone with a new E clip ion it?
Use some needle nose pliers and get under the old clip. Wedge the pliers under the clip and press down on the pliers to see if you can get the force needed.
Great. If it is too late here, I may be off line.
According to your model number, this is your upper shift shaft number, 888835A 1
The lower should be 884565A00
Verify your number with mine when you get it.
Did you get the powerhead off yet?