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Charles
Charles, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 3431
Experience:  US Navy (Ret) Certified Mercury Marine Tech with over a decade of repair experience.
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I need help repairing the shift shaft on my 2011 4 stroke

Customer Question

I need help repairing the shift shaft on my 2011 4 stroke 115hp mercury. It is bent
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Boat
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
From what I can gather I have broken the sleeve on the bottom of the shift shaft that runs down from the powerhead. I have also bent the shift shaft that goes into the lower leg. All I need is a skilled mechanic that can step me through the replacement of these parts.
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Hello, my name i Charles. I will assist you with this.

Would you please post the serial number if the engine, so that I may see exactly what model you have?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Charles, I'll get that serial number to you shortly. I hope to order the necessary parts today, I will appreciate your help in stepping me through correct replacement procedures
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

No worries. Once I get the serial number I will be ready. I may need a few pics of what you have doing on there. The broken part, the shift shaft.

Have why you figured out WHY it broke yet. That is a very rare failure.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I've got two numbers that may be helpful 1B896767 and 1115F23ED
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Ok got it.

Do you have the gear case on or off currently? How far is it torn down?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The shift shaft bushing was incorrectly positioned and the lower shift shaft didn't mate with the upper shift shaft. In the last few mm of tightening the lower unit back on, the lower shaft cracked the sleeve of the upper shaft and the lower shaft bent a little. The lower unit is off, but not dismantled at all. The lower shift shaft still turns and effectively selects forward and reverse...
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Ouch, that is not good.

So you need to replace both the upper and lower shift shafts?

Do you have access to some sort of a hoist system?

Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

I did not see that you are in Aus. Please do not take the phone offer, it is for the US only.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I doubt it
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

The only way to replace the upper shift shaft is to pull the powerhead from the midhousing. Can you post a pic of it here, so I can see how bad it is?

http://ww2.justanswer.com/help/how-do-i-send-photo-or-file-expert-0

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Not really, but the sleeve on the bottom of the upper shift shaft has the side cracked out, I was really hoping I'd be able to drop the shaft out the bottom and feed the new one in from the bottom? Sounds like a big task raising the powerhead. I can access a vehicle hoist or chain block if necessary
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

The shift shaft has a arm on the top of it that keeps it from being able to be dropped out. Removing the powerhead is a good sized task, in the shop this takes a hours to do a job like this.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Mercury/2006/1115F23ED/ADAPTOR%20PLATE/parts.html

The lower is rather straight forward. just remove the cap from it, slide the old shaft out and then install a new shaft.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
When I do the lower shaft do I need new seals or anything?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, and what extra might I need when replacing the upper shaft? Is the shaft a single piece or can I replace just the sleeve I have cracked?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

The shaft is a single piece. You will need parts 3, 25, and 28. Along with gasket, 8M0024563, which is the powerhead gasket.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Am I to raise the powerhead completely free of the upper cowl?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Should I also get any gasket sealant?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

No sealant on the gaskets, they go on dry.

Yes, the powerhead comes completely off. Disconnect the battery cables, the trim motor, the control cables, the key switch harness, and a few hoses.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
How does this affect the engine oil?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

You will need to drain that as well. Replace it with Mercury 25-40.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, but I won't need seals etc for that when re-installing?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

not for the upper, no. Just the lower.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Will I be disconnecting from the sump?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Yes. The oil sump is in the mid-section.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Does it just lift right off the sump?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Yes, once the powerhead is unbolted, it will lift off. This is what it looks like.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Mercury/2006/1115F23ED/ADAPTOR%20PLATE/parts.html

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'm just wondering where it lifts away from the sump am I going to need to replace seals etc?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

The sump is actually below the adapter plate. The 8M part number that I sent you is the only gasket that you will need.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry for asking so many questions, just being thorough because I live very remote. Are there any uncommon tools I will require?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

A fairly long 13mm wrench to reach two of the nuts located behind the muffler on the rear of the engine.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Socket type? Or open ended spanner
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll get all these parts ordered and prepare the overhead for removal. Might be a week or more before parts arrive though
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The piece I've broken off is a small piece-I wonder if there's still enough of a sleeve on the upper shaft to work?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

the wrench is a spanner or open ended. A socket wont work in there.

Have you thought about trying to see if someone can weld it back in place?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Where I live I wouldn't trust the workmanship of anyone-if it has to come off the engine I'm certainly replacing the part. You think the upper shaft is unusable now
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

I think that it would be. You don't want to be out to sea and get stuck in Rev.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, thanks Charles, as I said I'll track down the parts and get the power head ready for removal. Thanks for everything so far
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Your very welcome. Feel free to rate my service at any time, I always reply back to my customers.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Can I keep this conversation open for the installation of my parts?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

It never really closes.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Parts are ordered an I'll probably have them in 7 to 10 days
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Just wondering if I should be looking to get my hands on a lifting ring for the block?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

There is a lifting ring molded into the top of the block near the flywheel.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I saw this and was unsure if it was designed to take the weight of the block or not. Some videos I saw on lifting outboard blocks used the screw-in lifting ring so I was keen to check.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What time zone are you in?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I'm in EST in Australia. It is 11:00 am here now-what time do you have? When am I most likely to be able to have you respond as I prepare the block for lifting. And in your opinion is it better to get a lifting eye or not?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

It is 7PM here. Monday night. I work a day job, so weekdays, I am here after 6 PM, weekends, I am on here most of the day.

Being as I work in a Mercury dealer, I have always used the lifting eye, but I know that at the plant, they use the ring. If you are planning on keeping this engine and doing all the work yourself, it is a good tool to have around. It will work on the 75-115 Four Stroke, 06 and newer, All Verado engines, and the new 75-115 Four stroke engines.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Charles, is there a preferred locktite to use when the powerhead goes back on? Also I don't need any special tools when releasing fuel line pressure? And you talked me through a fsm issue a year or so ago. When my fsm primes I can sometimes hear a vapour leak and smell fuel if I have the engine cowl off and it seems to come from one of the hose connections on top of the fsm-is that just a standard thing?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

The nuts have the locktite in the threads already, none is needed there either.

The FSM fuel smell, could be a broken hose inside it. Did we replace a float, or a hose inside the FSM?

The only special tool is the lifting eye if you wanted to get it.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
we replaced the lift pump. It seems to only do it mainly when the engine has been sitting for a while and it is priming on the initial key turn. I thought there might be excess vapour in there that is being released as the lift pump fills the fsm. On a second or third key turn, there is no noticeable gaseous release...
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Yes, it is the venting of the MAP reference hose. You can test it by removing the end of the hose that connects to the intake, them try and blow through it. If you can move air or hear bubbles inside the FSM the hose is bad.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
this venting is a normal process?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Sort of, as the FSM fills, the air inside it needs to go someplace. But if you do that simple test I sent, it will tell you if the hose inside the FSM is broken or not.

Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Sort of, the air inside the FSM needs to go some place as it fills, If you do that simple test, you will know if that hose inside the FSM is broken or not.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Charles, I'm planning on beginning to prep the powerhead for lifting, what would be the first steps in the process and is there anything to watch out for. Also, how far into this can I get and still be able to tow the boat around so I can to where I need to lift the powerhead?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

First is drain the oil from the engine, then remove the gear case. Disconnect the battery cables from the engine, the control harness and the control cables. At this point, move the boat to the hoist.. You will need to disconnect the fuel line to the engine Remove the lower pans, then take off the nits for the powerhead. Disconnect the trim pump wires, and any hoses that run from the powerhead to the adapter plate. Then you can lift is off.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Charles, I am in possession of the lower shift shaft and associated parts that you told me to buy. I would like to begin by replacing this shaft. Can you outline the process for me please?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Remove the gear case, drain the oil from it. Remove the 2 10mm head bolts that hold on the shift shaft cover. Use a screwdriver to start lifting the cover from the shaft. Then remove the cover, pull the shaft straight up and out of the shift link. Pull the shift straight up and out of the Lower uunt,

Install the new shaft, Make sure that you get it seated in the shift cam properly

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
When you say remove the gear case, do you mean just drop the lower unit? Should I have the shift shaft selecting forward, reverse or neutral? Is the shift shaft the only shaft I have to move? When installing the new shift shaft, which other small pieces am I replacing. What is the best indication that I have the new shaft seated properly?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

yes just drop the lower unit. Have the shifter in Neutral.

When it is in correctly, the the "E" clip will be just under the base of the cover plate.

If you have the seals, replace them as well, if not, do not worry about it.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
hi Charles ive go the base plate off and the shift shaft doesn't seem to want to come out. Is there a trick to this?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
do I have to remove the carrier bearing?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Grasp the shaft with a pair of pliers, wiggle it slightly back and forth as you pull up.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
in neutral position?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

yes, remember that you seated it pretty good when it was not aligned properly.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can apply lot of upward force? it seems very stubborn
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have the pate off so that I can see straight down into the gear case, ive selected neutral and im pulling it pretty well but can get it to release
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
could I have missed a step?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
is it stuck in the shift link?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Yes apply upward force on the shaft. It is a tight fit on the splines on the bottom of it. Even if you wanted to remove the prop shaft, the shift shaft has to be out.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
This bugger is stuck! Any tips? I might be able to use a small car jack under the pliers because lifting straight up from above is not working at this stage.
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Did the new shaft cone with a new E clip ion it?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yeah it did
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Use some needle nose pliers and get under the old clip. Wedge the pliers under the clip and press down on the pliers to see if you can get the force needed.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll let you know how I go with that
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Great. If it is too late here, I may be off line.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I got the shift shaft out, my replacement shaft is the wrong size though-its not long enough for my 25" leg. I was able to easily re-insert the original, bent shift shaft until I can obtain the right sized replacement. Do you know if the upper shift shaft is the same length on both the 20 and 25" legs? My feeling is that they may be as the extra distance is covered by the lower shift shaft. Can you please confirm or correct this?
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

According to your model number, this is your upper shift shaft number, 888835A 1

The lower should be 884565A00

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I've got the 884563A00 lower at the moment, but will return it. Yet to receive my upper shaft, so my hope was that it would be the same for either model, but will check
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Verify your number with mine when you get it.

Did you get the powerhead off yet?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Not yet, I'm planning on doing it once the part is here.
Expert:  Charles replied 1 year ago.

Sounds good

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