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Hello, my name is***** will assist you today.
Do you have a link to that old question? I will look it up.
Would you please post the serial number of the engine?
The result of the other question was to sync the carbs. Did you do that after either cleaning. Is should be done to make sure that all 4 cylinders are drawing the same vacuum at idle.
Do you know the compression on the engine?
Great, please let me know.
Yes it could. At idle, the engine is not making any power, just spinning over. I have seen others that have a bad cylinder, and idle just fine.
Was your throttle open or closed when you did this? It needs to be open. As ir is currently, they are all very low.
That is much better.
Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to test resistance?
On the left side of the block you will see the temp sender. It is just above the dip stick. Unplug it, test the resistance between the two leads that are going from it. Let me know what you get, so that I can match it to the chart.
That is on the sensor and not the harness, correct?
Ok, the sender is bad. This is why the engine is not running correctly. The ECU thinks that the engine is cold, do it adjusts the timing. Replacing the sender is the only repair.
It is part 23.
The new one or the old one?
What did you use to sync the carbs after the last rebuild?
Could you take a video pf the engine running and past it here? Hearing the engine when the issue happens may help me get to the bottom of this.
How about a video?
Did you get all 4 cylinders to read the same? The bottom cylinder is the control and the other 3 need to match it.
Thank you. It really does help to hear the engine sometimes..
No worries. No time limits here.