Yes, to change the bendix you need to pull the engine so you can pull the flywheel.
To pull the engine, you do not have to remove the starter.
To pull the engine, you can either remove the entire exhaust system, from the manifold that bolts to the cylinders all the way back to the pipe1 #58 on the diagram.
NOW, since your engine gave you problems removing the manifold, you can alternatively do the following:
Leave the manifold where it is, hanging from the cylinders. You might even throw one bolt back in so it doesn't flop around.
Remove 17 and 26 as one unit by removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the manifold (muffler 1), the 2 bolts that hold it to the head, and the 4 hose clamps that connect it to 48. I want you to think about the exhaust as 3 major components, the manifold (muff 1) the assembly that bolts to the mainfold (17 & 26) and goes across the front of the engine to 46 (Joint Exhaust 1) and the final assembly that is parallel to the engine along the right side and out the back of the engine compartment. Those are the 3 major component assemblies I am talking about. And the last 2, everything OTHER than the manifold, (muffler 1) need to come out to remove the engine, along with the carb and flame arrestor. Muffler 1 is NOT required to be removed to either get the rest of the exhaust components in the engine compartment out or to remove the engine. BECAUSE we are leaving the muffler 1 on the engine, You DO have to remove the carbs.
There are 5 "holders" (#13) that hold the cover of the flame arrestor on the base of it. Once you get the exhaust off, you can see the top 2 and the rear 1. There are 2 more on the bottom. one at the rear corner and one towards the front. You will have to just reach under the air box and feel around till you find the holder, press at the back on the tab and slide it backwards. Remove the hose clamp to separate the cover from the large black hose and it will come off.
Disconnect the oil lines and fuel lines from the carbs, and also the vacuum lines for the fuel pumps. I usually remove the front vacuum line from the cylinder block and the 2nd and 3rd vacuum lines from the carbs. Do that however you feel is easiest for you. Disconnect the 3 cables. Choke, throttle and oil pump. Try to loosen the same nuts, say the ones in front of the SS bracket, so you can just tighten them back up and be right back into adjustment. The choke and throttle are cake to adjust, but the oil pump, the most critical, is not quite as easy. It can be done if need be, but I prefer to save the time by putting it back exactly where it was.
Remove the 6 10mm hex bolts to remove the screen, then the 6 10mm hex bolts holding the carbs on, plus the 4 (#7) 5mm allen head bolts (in between carbs 1&2 and 3&4). These allen head bolts have a plastic cap on them that you put the allen wrench right through the middle of. Those plastic caps will keep the bolt connected to the allen wrench so it doesn't drop into the bilge during removal and installation. I use a long 5mm allen in a 3/8" drive socket for this as opposed to a conventional "L" shaped allen key.
Once you do all that the carbs should come right off. You will also have to remove the front piece of the air box. To do that, you only need to remove the top bolt. The bottom tabs on the air box are slotted so once you get the top bolt out, they will lift up and off the bottom bolts & grommets without unbolting them.
Here is a diagram of all that for you:
I hope that clears it up.