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I have a problem with my 2001 evinrude ficht ram
I have a problem with my 2001 evinrude ficht ram injection 150hp with 178 hours, I went to start it and started fine then after about 3 minutes the engine light came on, the motor was still running fine, i have changed the fuel filter ever since but still doing the same thing. the voltage to the motor is fine, i don't have a scan tool kit to find out the code, can you help me please.
You do have the Systems Check gauge?
Are you mechanically handy and can you identify the different sensors on the engine?
Do you know what the TPI throttle position sensor on the flywheel cover looks like?
Hi jeff, thank you for replying to my question, yes i am mechanicly minded, unfortunately i dont have the system check gauge, there are 2 sensors on there, one is with 2 screws with the plug in the sensor and the other one is connected to the the long shaft that goes down to the shift sensor with one screw.
Where did you see the engine light?
OK let me explain how to pull the trouble codes. They will be a two digit number such as 1 blink and four blinks is a code 14.
Once you pull the codes let me know. You may have more than one code.
You must follow the directions exactly. You'll need a large rubber band.
Remove the throttle position sensor from the plastic flywheel cover. Leave it plugged in.
Move the arm on the throttle position sensor to full throttle. Hold the sensor in position with your rubber band.
Turn the key switch to ON, NOT start just ON. Wait 10 seconds. The gauge light will begin to flash the codes. Write down the codes.
If the TPS is moved before the codes are displayed the EMM will not display the codes. Turn the key off and repeat the procedure.
Post back what codes you get.
Ok will do that in about 2 hours as im not home at the moment, just to make sure if im in the boat looking towards the motor which side is the sensor on the right or left.
ok got it, 2,8,8,2,2,5,1,7
OK from your reply you have 4 problems. They may be hard codes or soft codes. Hard codes are current and soft codes may have been set in the recent past.
28 is shift assist. I wouldn't worry about this too much. Just make sure the engine is shifting normally and you shift quickly. If the engine continually dies when shifting this could be a problem.
82 is #2 ignition coil primary open, here just check the wires and make sure you have a good connection.
17 is alternator voltage is low. make sure all connections are good and tight, no corrosion. Make sure the battery is fully charged and holding a charge.
25 this may be the real problem. This is EMM overheat. The EMM is the computer. It is water cooled. If the water is hot, or not enough the EMM will overheat and it can damage it. Expensive. There is a hose going to and from the EMM. Remove the hoses and blow through the EMM. If you can connect a couple pieces of hose to the EMM and run water through it without getting everything wet all the better. We use a hook up with a garden hose adapter here at the shop. If you use the boat in salt water use some Salt Away or similar product to clean it out.
Check these things and let me know what you find.
Thanks, ***** ***** i clear the codes so i can start again and find out which one is the current problem, i think its the alternator because my batteries aren't the best.
Here you go, then run the engine again and get the codes. Make sure you reconnect the TPS before running the engine again.While in diagnostic mode, return the throttle position sensor to its idle position, wait 5 seconds and the check engine light will come on.Move the TPS to its WOT limit, check engine light will go out.Then back to low end limit, light will come back on.Make sure TPS travels to both limits, repeat the low to high steps for 5 cycles, after cycle 5 on the low end limit, the check light will stay on until the TPS is remounted. After remount, if there are no hard codes, the light will stay off.Turn off the key off and all soft codes will be erased.
Im doing something wrong, the light is going on then off but im missing something as i still can't clear them, so i do this while the outboard is turned off right, then i take the tps out and move it back and forward holing it for 5 seconds when light is on, and repeat this 5 times, i done that but the light is not staying on at the end.
You do this after you get the codes with the key turned ON. Engine OFF. After the codes are cleared turn the key OFF remount the TPS. Then when you turn the key back on only new faults will show.
done, it's coming up with 82, it was one of the little coil wire plugs, was corroded but I now face a bigger problem with the computer, as I was taking out the water hoses of it as I was going to flush it with salt away, one of the water hose fitting on the actual computer where the water hose goes in was very badly corroded and broke off as soon as I touched it, please tell me I can replace them otherwise I can't fit the hose, also no water is running into computer, checked blockages but was none, there's no water coming from the big black thing which looks like a fuel and water evaporator.
That is the #2 ignition coil primary. You're not getting fire through that coil, top port side. Carefully check all the wires all the way back to the EMM.
You can also swap coils with another cylinder and see if it makes a difference.
I got a message about the water hoses on the EMM. Are you still having a problem?
Yes, theres no water going to the computer, it's overheating, reason i know this is because i have 2 motors, the other one is pumping out water but this one isnt, there's a hose coming from a big black electrical thing, sorry i don't know what its called, theres fuel hoses and water hose coming from it, the water hose thats going from it to the computer is not pumping water out.
Thats the vapor separator, part of the fuel system. It is a free flow of water through it and then to the EMM. There isn't any additional pumps, just the water pump in the lower unit. You'll need to backflush with a hose the hose from the separator to the EMM, and the water hose into the separator.
If the water pump impeller hasn't been replaced in the last couple years you need to do that to ensure good water pressure.
And what about the broken bit on the emm where the water hose fits, is that replaceable.
The part is not available as a separate fitting. I personally have never had to even consider replacement. I would call DFI Technologies and see if they have ever replaced one.(###) ###-####/p>
BTW I'm only seeing what is in the pane above, so if it doesn't show up repost.