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Joe
Joe, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 7136
Experience:  ASE, electronics, Marine mechanical and electronics, pwc, wiring, all around repair tech,
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1991Johnson J150EXEIS. 60 degree looper. Overheating. I have

Customer Question

1991Johnson J150EXEIS. 60 degree looper. Overheating. I have replaced thermostats, water pump, head O rings. Verified head water passages are clear, no buildup. Pumps good stream from the telltale when running. Head Temperature measured with laser thermometer. Port head reads around 165 degrees, Starboard head reads close to 200.Checked and re-checked no avail. I am good mechanically but this is baffling me.Please help. Any suggestions?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Boat
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Hello,

Thank you for allowing me to assist you, my name is Joe and I will be happy to assist you with your concern today.

At that point it would be time to pull the head and check for corrosion, etc, causing a restriction. You would also want to inspect the block on the starboard side under the head cover.

I am just seeing if you still need assistance with this problem? The reason I ask is because I see that your question has not been answered sooner and I wanted to make sure if you still needed help.

In some cases a question may sit due to several different reasons. My objective that I wish is to make sure that if you still need help that I can at the very least reach out to you and attempt to help you.

At this time please feel free when you are ready to reply back to me and ask to continue working with me, another expert or if you no longer need help please just let me know exactly what you wish to do.

If you need any further assistance you can reply back at any time for my help.
I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have even if not related.

Thanks,
Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
As stated in my original question "I have replaced thermostats, water pump, head O rings. Verified head water passages are clear, no buildup. " Yes I have pulled the heads, and checked that the water passages are clear. I'm looking for another solution to check beyond that.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Did you check if the starboard side is running lean?

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am not sure how to do that. What should I be looking for? I also rebuilt all the carbs, however I was having the overheating problem before that. Is the port side OK at 165 degrees? Even though it is lower temperature than starboard, shouldn't they both be close to 140 degrees at Idle? That's what I gathered from my web searches.
If it is running lean, how would I enrichen the mix? Where would I make the adjustment?
.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Good morning,

With a hose on and the thermostats out, does water flow good out of the ports?

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Are you meaning that I should remove thermostats, replace thermostat cover, and run it to see if water flows out pee hole, or should I just attach my muff hose and see if water flows out the thermostat ports with thermostats and cover removed?
Let me know and I will try this evening and get back with you.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am also thinking of attaching a pressure gauge to the fitting on the port side head to monitor the water pressure at different rpms. Do you think that is a good idea, and what pressures should I be looking for?
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

This is done without the motor running, thermostats and cover removed, hose via muff attached and good muffs tight fit, with water on if your water is strong enough (hopefully), then if the system is good up to that point, then you should have water running out of the t-stat ports at about the rate of the hose (minus restriction due to cooling passages smaller than hose) so within reason. This is sort of like flushing the motor without t-stats in and engine not running, sort of like what would be done on a closed cooling system for a flush so to speak. The goal here is to observe the flow.

In a perfect world this works, however not all engines are the same and depending on hose size and pressure and type of muff, the water may not make it up the powerhead.

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK . Understood. I will try that. My hose usually has good pressure. My water supply here is about 60psi so that should not be an issue. I will get back with you later.
One question...Is it normal for water to be streaming out of the holes in the lower unit when on the muffs. I have noticed that before when flushing.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

It depends on which holes, some, yes that is normal.

When you replaced the water pump did you do just the impeller, impeller and o-rings or all including the housing?

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I did the complete works. In fact the first time I did it when I was putting the lower unit back up my pickup tube was misaligned andI didn't get any flow out pisser. So I removed the lower lower unit and re-did the water pump ( very carefully) and re installed, even putting a new pickup tube grommet, as well as exhaust tube gaskets upper and lower so I know I have a tight fit. I got a good stream in the end. But It was done very carefully.
Also back to your previous thought about the lean mixture. The carbs on these units are not adjustable they have the orifice jets to control mix. Just wanted to mention that.
Later I am going to also recheck the compression on each cylinder so will have those numbers for you too.
.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Correct, in terms of running lean this would not mean an adjustment, this can be much more complicated such as an air leak, this is anything that is more air than fuel per say to keep it simple, and yes it can still seem to run good but in most cases will show signs or poor running.

Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

A compression test is good however a leak down test is another test that should also be preformed.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK Joe
I took off thermostats, ran hose through Muffs full pressure. Waited several minutes. Definitely no water coming up to the thermostat ports. I re-installed the thermostat covers without thermostats, had strream.
Re-installed thermostats, Started up motor, it ran for about 7 minutes with Very powerful stream, water pump definitely strong ,thermostats opened up at about 140Deg. I Checked temp with IR Thermometer and both sides seem to be running evenly about 145 degrees. Seems like cooling is ok now, but hard to tell because after few minutes of idling at 1500 rpm engine dies up to that point the temperature seemed stable. I tried to catch before it cut off it by pumping primer bulb also pushing choke in to feed more fuel but it still dies. Maybe an air leak in fuel supply? ( I replaced diaphragm on fuel pump when I did carburetor rebuild. So I don't think the fuel pump is defective).
By the way, my VRO system is disconnected because I do pre mix 50:1 on my fuel. I have non-ethanol in my tank at the moment.
Anyway to continue,...... after it dies, It does not start again readily no matter how much I try, unless I let it sit for about an hour or so, then try again. Or, I can get it to start if I spray some quick start into the intake.
Will try to troubleshoot fuel problem in a few days, as I am going out of town tomorrow until after the weekend. Something to think about in the meanwhile. My plan is to replace fuel lines and primer bulb and tighten hose clamps securely. Is it OK to use the Blue hose that's on the market now? I am meticulously going through this motor hopefully to restore everything and have it running like new before I take it out on the water again. Suggestions appreciated.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Did you also switch over to the normal basic fuel pump? Also does the primer bulb go soft when it stalls?

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No I believe it is just the original configuration with the VRO oil feed disconnected. That was the way I bought the boat. It seemed to work that way for 5 years. Is there another way to do this?
Yes the primer bulb seems to go a little soft when it stalls.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Didn't know there was an option about switching to basic fuel pump. Threads only discuss disconnecting VRO system. Can you enlighten me?
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Yes, in fact there are a couple of options, there are conversion kits and there are the basic pumps:

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC5007422&gclid=CJefuMeboMgCFVcSHwod8QkGqQ

The single normal pumps look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VRO-PUMP-REPLACEMENT-FOR-INLINE-OR-90degree-V4-90-115hp-JOHNSON-EVINRUDE-5007422-/171368492128?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

I have a couple of them on a 24' boat of mine right now both vro systems removed and converted to standard pumps.

Replacing your fuel lines and going through the entire fuel system is a great place to start.

I will continue to keep an eye out for your replies if you need any further help or have any other questions. In terms of the cooling issue, it's likely there may have been an air pocket or something that broke free.

Thank you!
- Joe

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If you need any further assistance you can reply back at any time for my help.
I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have even if not related.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry for late response, as I was out of town for the past few weeks. I haven't been able to take the boat out yet to determine if the problem is solved yet. Will get back with you once I get it on the water. It may be a few weeks as I am still trying to fet my fuel problem worked out. Just bought new hoses and primer bulb, waiting for better weather to work on the boat project again.
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Sounds good.

Thanks,

Joe

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