What other modules are there? I replaced the white box and wire connect ors. Is it the trim control motor necessary to complete the circuit?
There has to be a way. Ive read about others that have one it. I am looking for the way to bypass the unit. It has power going in but non coming out. How do I bypass the unit to get power to the ignition switch?
Power from the battery goes into the trim control box..but no power coming out of it. Appearntly the connection is broken in the trim control box. How can I bypass the trim control box. How many wires going into should be live and how many coming out? So I can connect them
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you still need help with this ?
Yes, thank you sir. I have read some of your previous posts and I was hoping that our paths would cross. You seem to have a good understanding of the trim control system...I have a 1995 zxi900. Regarding the two plugs going into the trim control box. Do you know how many should be live? As it is now Only one is live. I turn the ignition switch on and have no power. Trim box was purchase off eBay an was supposed to work. Thanks you sir.
Good, well let get started, by the way my name is XXXXX XXXXX am I speaking to ?
I'm going to run you a few little checks first so we can determine whats happening. Do you have a multi-meter for checking DC voltages ?
Also I need to know when you turn on the ignition switch does the idiot lights (oil level and temp) come on when the key is first turned on ?
And if you can give me your HIN (hull number) I want to MAKE sure that I have the right year since they did change some of the internals on different years. Also you said that you purchased a USED trim box on eBay, MAKE sure that the components inside the box are EXACTLY the same as your and the harness is the same.
Get back to me on those questions and we can mover forward from here.
Hello Kenny. My name is XXXXX XXXXX is mine. I do not have. DC meter a the moment. The number is XXXXX No lights come on when switch is turned to on position. As it appears the trim box is identical ( minus the water damage lol). Thanks so much
OK, if you have a Harbor Freight Tools by you that is a great place you go for an expensive volt meter.
I understand already where your problem lies, we will need that to narrow it down and go from there.
Let me know when you are ready ?
aweome! Will i need the volt meter? I can use my neighbors volt meter. I am ready when you are. I have my sons t ball from 6-7. Thanks for you help
Sounds good. Thanks Kenny. Looking forward to it
I'm posting up a PDF file that you can download, this is the diagram, I'm going to do this in steps so I don't confuse you. It might be a little hard to read the colors on the diagram but I'll help you out with that.
Find the ignition switch and make sure that you have battery voltage on the red wire leading to the ignition switch, if you follow that back it will go into the electrical box, if you don't have battery voltage (12 volts) on that red wire to the switch stop right there and let me know.
So you have a white wire and a red wire on the "in" side of the switch, remember red should have battery voltage regardless key on or off. Now if voltage is there then with key on you will find a red/white r/w wire out of the switch, measure voltage on the r/w wire, that goes up to a "joint" connector, if you look on the diagram you'll see that the r/w wire goes into that connector then a bunch of wires (r/w) and an orange wire, this is basically what splits off all the power to all the various components that require 12 to power them up. You need to make sure that you have power (battery voltage) on every single wire (with the key on) in that joint connector.
So turn your volt meter to VDC so you can measure the voltage at the battery, this will be your baseline, then (-) black meter to good ground (battery) and then the positive (+) lead to check all your voltages that I gave you earlier. Easy was to test the voltage on the individual wires is get yourself a safety pin and poke it threw the vinyl sheathing on the wire.
Let me know your results, make sure you write them down as you are performing your tests.
Great. Thanks bud. I will start on it this afternoon.
OK, let me know when you get some results
Sorry for the delay. I had a busy couple of days... I checked the solid red wire going into the ignition switch, no power.
OK, the red wire to the switch NEEDS to have power, that basically comes direct front the main electrical box, you need to open that up and then figure out why you are not getting voltage on that wire which goes directly to the main switch.
Let me know when you got that figured out and we'll move forward from there
Thanks so much for your help... so I opened the electric box and found a broken wire. I now have power (12v)on the solid red and the red with white stripe at the switch. The solid white and the black with white stripe have nothing. Now I can here the trim motor working but still have no power on gauges and won't turn over. Regarding the two plugs going into the trim motor I have 12v on the all wires in the black plug( orange, white with red stripe, blue with red stripe and red with green stripe). No power on gray plug(Red with blue stripe, black, green with white stripe and blue with white stripe). Thanks for everything. sorry if its confusing. I will try my best to further explain it.
OK, Matt thats good that you have power, now you are putting your cart before your horse.
Now that you know you have power into your switch (ignition) you need to find the "joint connector" with all the r/w (red/white) wires and the orange wire, with the key on you need to make sure that you have 12 volts (battery voltage) on all the wires on that joint connector.
Let me know what you come up with, this is going to be the fastest way to diagnose this problem, I know the wires that are suppose to have voltage and not !
Thanks for your response. You have been n awesome help. So...IG your referring to the black box, looks like a relay, that has all red and white striped wires plus a solid orange one thAn I have found it and tested all wires. 12 volts in all.
OK, it looks like a box, but really isn't, you should have 8 r/w wire leading into it and one orange. So if I understand you correct you have battery voltage on ALL of those wires ?
If so that is good, now I believe you have a few problems, now to re-inforce my theory I need to check voltage on the (r) "red" wire at the water temp sensor when the key is turned on. You'll need to hook you meter up to that wire (use a safety wire to probe the wire) and then turn the key on, you only have about 5 seconds to check for voltage on that wire then it will shut off if the oil/temperature indicator control unit is doing its job, if you get 12 volts on that red wire then the bulbs are likely bad.
After that test go to the trim box and check the "orange" wire for 12 volts when the key is turned on, tell me what you find on these test.
Hello, the r/w wire at the sensor has 12v when key is turned on for approximately 5 seconds then the 12v turns on and off(the probe light flashes on and off). The orange wire to the trim box has 12v. Thanks so much for your help
OK, awesome, now I want you to go to the trim box, at the trim control unit unplug the orange wire there and check it down there for battery voltage (12) and if you have 12 volts on the orange wire at the control unit, then unplug the r/w and plug it directly into the orange wire. What you are doing here is by-passing the trim control unit, this will test if the wiring and the switch and the trim motor is working.
But with a word of CAUTION first, when you are running this is by-pass mode (testing) you will eliminate the trim control sensor and the control unit, IT WILL NOT STOP THE MOTOR WHEN IT GETS TO EITHER THE UP OR DOWN POSITION ! As long as you are holding the button it will keep going, this will usually break the housing for the screw that moves the cable.So be careful when testing this as you don't want to damage the mechanical part of the trim.
When you by pass the trim control unit and everything appears to work fine, then you know you have a problem with the trim control unit, if it doesn't work, then there either a problem in the wiring, or the switch and or the trim motor itself.
Let me know how this works out for you.
Thanks for then help. On the black plug going into the trim control box i jumped the r/w and the orange. Still nothing when I try to turn over. When I plug in the box I can here the motor working , moving up and down. Thanks so mich
Not real sure what you are saying in your last post ? Can you elaborate a little more