Hi my name isXXXXX will assist you..
The gray wire is the signal wire for the tach. Replace the tach but disconnect the gray wire from the tach then reconnect the gray wire to the coil. This is to verify that the tach is the cause of the issue and not a shorted signal wire. Start the engine, if the engine doesn't start then the gray signal wire is shorted to ground. If the engine starts then replace the tach.
Yes, when it is disconnected from the coil it starts fine
For some reason the gray wire is spliced when it leaves the coil and goes to what looks like a neutral switch on the top of the engine the other end goes in the wiring harness. Any idea why it is spliced and goes to the switch on the top of the engine?
Did you read my last post? If not here it is.
Check the shift interrupt switch is in the neutral position. Disconnect the shift interrupt switch then connect the gray wire to both the tach and the coil. The gray wire connects to the white/green of the shift switch.
This is the switch you are calling a neutral switch. This switch grounds the ignition when shifting if the engine isn't in neutral or the middle of the lever the ignition is grounded. If the switch is in the vee notch of the lever then the switch is shorted.
Did your start issue start after doing the water pump? If yes remove the drive and get the shift straightened out thenj check the engine start issue. This might be just a simple case of the shift being misaligned causing the interrupt switch to activate causing no start.
That the shift misaligned on the shift rod shaft. The drive needs to be in forward and thew control needs to be in forward when you install the drive. The switch should have no continuity when the button is not depressed. Depressed continuity.Continuity grounds the ignition system no spark.
Both the drive and the shift control must be in forward gear. When putting the drive on hold pressure on the prop rotating to the left. This will keep the drive in gear. Be sure the splines align. Then put one nut on to hold the drive then check shift. If it doesn't shift right you only have to remove one nut.
When you say both drive and shift control must be in forward do I do that with just the forward drive handle?
And, how do I check the drive shift with the one nut on?
If you are removing just the lower portion of the drive the lower drive has to be in the same gear as the shifter in the boat. The one nut is to hold the drive on so you can check the shift. This is so if you miss the shift again you don't have to remove 7 nuts and bolts. The 1 nut is just easier than 7
Ok. I'm just not sure how I get the lower drive in the same gear?
I got the nut issue, but how do I check it after I have the one nut on?
If the splines are still there, any idea why it fell out of gear? I want to make sure this doesnt happen again.
I was going to remove the lower stern drive but before I did I put the control lever in forward and I couldnt turn the propeller to the left. I also put the control lever in reverse and I couldnt turn the propeller to the right. Based on this, I dont think it is the lower gear drive. So, I thought I must have missed something so I started it up and I could hear a little grinding. The engine reved up but the propeller didnt turn. Could it possibly be the main spline that goes from the lower unit to the upper? Or is there some type of clutch, or something else I should check?
I have some very fine aluminum shavings in the engine compartment on the side of the starter. Could those filings be from the starter? If it is the coupling, how do you change it? Do I need to remove the entire stern drive, the engine, or is there an easier way to remove the coupling? Like could I leave the engine in, and remove just the stern drive? If I have to remove the stern drive I will replace the bellows, and Tilt/Trim senders at the same time. I was going to buy a hinge pin tool and a bellows expander tool. Are there other tools I need for this job?
It seems like the coupler bolts on to the back of the engine. There is probably 6" between the engine and the transum. It might be tight, but couldnt I leave the engine in place and remove the coupling from the side?
OK. I'll plan on removing both the engine and the stern drive. I also have a small water leak trough the transum. It appears that the water is coming in around the bottom bolt on the starbord side of the stern drive plate. Is there a gasket that is leaking? Any suggestions on fixing that leak?
I have been working on the repairs that we talked about a while ago and have an issue I need help with. Not really sure on terms so bear with me. I want to replace the shift cable bellows. Therefore, that means that I need to take the shift cable out to get the new bellows in. The problem is that the nut that holds the shift cable inplace on the bell housing wont come out. I presume it is a regular thread. It it brass and I think I've stripped it. Any suggestions on how to get that brass nut out? Or is it reverse thread by chance? I bought a special ratchet with an open in the middle to be able to get to the nut.
Hi Frank, If the shoulders are stripped you will have to drill the brass fitting out. There is a tap 1/4-18(NPT) pipe tap once you get the fitting drilled out..
Can I pull the shift cable through the transum plate the other way?
1) I'm debating on changing the shift cable between the engine and the outdrive but dont really want to do it if it isnt necessary. What are some things I should look for in determining to replace it or not?
2) Also, since the engine is in parts, what is the best way to winterize it? I live in VT so it freezes.
Cable from the drive? What do you mean?
Just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. Oh, I've definetely been reading all your posts. I've even printed out that document and have read it thourougly. I'm new to this so the terms are a little new for me. But, I still dont know how you know the shift cable should be replaced. When I look at it the shift cable outer black tube it seems to be in OK shape and the inner metal linkage looks fine. And, I dont really want to drill out the nut on the bell housing if I dont have to. But, obviously, if I should do it, I should do it now while I have it all apart. looking for some advice?
OK. That's what I needed to know. I'll change that also.
I am installing new tilt/trim position and limit sensors. There is a small plate where the wires go through the boat. That small plate is held on with two 7/16" head (I think 1/4x20) bolts. I have removed the bottom bolt without much issue. The problem I have is that I cant get to the top bolt. I've bought numerous wrenches and ratches to try to get to that bolt but it is a very tight place. I also tried taking off the I guess it's the gimble ring (not sure that the right name) It has the cotter pin and bigger pin in the bottom and 2 bolts on the top. But, there must be somthing on the top holding it in because I cant get it out. My goal is just to remove the plate for the wires if you can tell me a trick I'd love to know how to remove that bolt to get the wires through.