Hi my name isXXXXX will assist you.
Unplug the main engine harness try starting. If the engine starts the key switch is bad, if not there is an ignition component failing. To test the ignition components you will need a peak reading volt meter. If the engine does start you will have to choke the engine to turn if off.
Post back with questions.
where do I find the main harness?
What does it look like?
how would i choke it?
I have a multi meter but not sure what apeak one is? I am not 100% confident in using it would need tips.
The main engine harness is the big red plug. To shut engine down just disconnect the fuel line.
There are some tests we can perform on the ignition components but they are not as accurate as the peak reading volt meter.
Disconnect the main harness and get back to me if the engine doesn't start. This test eliminates the key switch.
Ok, You can always continue after you have accepted.
I disconected the harness and it started right up.
Does this mean i should replace the ignition switch? or could it be the emergency kill switch?
The warm up lever broke off when i was trying to take aprt the control box. do you know where i could get a replacement?
It could be either one, disconnect the black/yellow wire from the key switch, if the engine starts the key switch is bad, if it doesn't the kill switch is bad.
The warm up lever you will have to get from your local dealer the p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNor from this link. click here Post back with questions.
Thank you so much for your help.
one more question. what is the little round nobe under the key for?
Your welcome. Thats the throttle friction adjustment. This is if the throttle handle creeps up tighten the knob and the handle will stiffen up and stop creeping up.
I just installed a new ignition switch but I am still having the same problem with boat starting. I disconnect black/yellow wire boat starts.
The new switch was almost identical but a little different. Old witch had letters for where the wires connect.... M S C A M B. new switch is marked M B M C I S.New switch is a Sierra MP39760. Not sure on origional part number. This is what they sent me when i imputed year and model.
if this switch is right can you help with color of whire to each letter?
Also I ordered a starter because the old one would turn but not go up and turn engine. If i jump it directly from sylonoid it would go up but turn engine too slow to start it.
I installed new starter and the problem is identical. I didnt try to chump directly to sylonoid this time.
Any help is much appreciated
The A and the I are the same battery. Check the voltage at the start solenoid while cranking the engine must have 9.5+ volts. If the voltage is below 9.5 you have a bad connection or bad battery cables from battery to engine. Low voltage will make the starter turn slow. If the voltage is good at the starter and solenoid while cranking the starter is bad. Check your voltage going to the starter 9.5+ volts while cranking. Here is a wiring diagram.
OK..... LOL I checked voltage at solonoid. I have 12 v. while cranking starter between10 and 11v. but does not engage. I jump the wires from solonoid and still turns but does not engage.
Does this definately mean my new starter is bad as well??
Check the voltage directly on the starter while cranking. Positive and negative. Check your ground cable for corrosion.
Post back with findings.
13v at starter pos and neg
The gear on starter does not go up and engage engine so how would i do that?
I took reading while turning the key and start spins but doesnt go up to engage engine. New starter and old do the same thing
You are not going to believe this...... I had the battery cable on batery backwards. You might not believe it but im not usually that dumb. cables are not marked well. Switched around and the key switch works, old starter work, genius ha.....