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First thing to do is check the fuel pump fuse.
Other than that, the the two most common causes of a crank no start is either 1) a bad crank sensor or 2) no fuel delivery. It is very unlikely that this is related to the cracked hose you replaced.
I would see if the car will catch/fire using quick start. If it will not start with the quick start, then you have a bad crank sensor and therefore no spark, and you will need to replace the crank sensor.
If it does fire on the quick start, then you have a fuel delivery problem and you will need to check the pump for power. If there is power present and the pump is not running, then the pump is bad. If there is no power, it is likely the relay.
I hope that is helpful, please let me know if you have further questions, or if I can clarify anything for you.
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No, those codes are definately from the cracked hose. 100%.
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i'm letting to cool to double check the fitting on replaced hose under the oil seperator. It does appear that unplugging the MAF made it start right up.
hose was still fitted tight. car is running now. I'm going back to work. Please reply with additional possible causes for the p0174 and p0171 codes. IT sounds like an vacum leak under the plastic intake manifold but it might be the sound of the air flowing throught the plastic intake. Can i inject smoke into the brake vacum booster hose to check for leaks? Or would i inject smoke into the intake with the MAF removed? Once again i have the freez frame data from the code if you want that.
The number one cause for those codes is an air leak like you just fixed with the replacement hose
After that would be a bad MAF or crankcase vent valve failure. To test the ccv remove the oil dipstick with the engine running. If there is a high vacuum holding the cap down, then the ccv is bad.
What is the actual part name for the ccv. Dealer says the car does not have one. Is it called a regulator of some sort or do you have a part number? With dip stick removed there is mild to medium amount of suction when removing the oil filler cap. Check engine light back on with same 2 codes. 1 set confirmed another set pending.
Part 1 below
"Pressure regulating valve"
part number 11617501566 or 11617533400 for cold climate version
actually can I have the last 7 of your vin to verify
I just double checked. The numbers I provided were correct. Always best to verify based on vin.
Here is a link to the info on replacing the CCV: CLICK HERE The proper repair calls for the manifold to come off, but it is possible to manage without removing it.
There should be very little suction.
You are welcome for the assistance. You can always consider a bonus if satisfied.
It is the same engine, you also have the M54 engine.
the filter and pressure regulator are one unit on your car, shown below.
If those codes come back, you need to look for another intake air leak or swap out the maf for a known good unit.
Update Ran great last night drove it 20 miles started and restared it 20 times. Parked in garage. First thing this morning it cranked... sputtered... died and now just cranks and will not start again. I unplugged the MAF which worked to start it yesterday but no luck today. It never actually started but has 3 codes already P0174, P0171 and a new P0333 " crankshaft position sensor" Could all codes be from an intermittent crank shaft sensor? The engine never started to develop a vacum leak? Is this the sensor on front of motor below passenger side radiator hose? does my car need the one with or without the wire pigtail hangigng off. I cannot even see the sesor but might be able to remove by touch. What should i need to remove to get to this for replacement. I'm just confused that potentially a "crankshaft sensor", " vacum leak" and "MAF" all failed at the same time?? Maybe this is all the crankshaft sensor?
the crank sensor may be your no start issue. it is a very common cause of a crank no start
a crank sensor will not set lean codes. I would be shocked if replacing the crank sensor fixed those codes. The broken hose you initially replaced was causing a vacuum leak, which is a very common cause of lean codes. aside from such a leak, the ccv or maf would also cause lean codes.
crank sensor is 8 below
Here is an outline: CLICK HERE
you will need to check for fuel and spark then.
Relay is behind the globe box, per this info: CLICK HERE
You can also check the pump, under the rear seat to see if it runs / has power: CLICK HERE
let me know how it goes.
I would wager the original lean codes were from the broken vacuum tube...