To summarize, your suggestions to date have been great, but the long cranking (9/10 times) remains. The FC A8 error I buzzed out to the DME and discovered a near-break in the wire near the idle control valve, fixed it and THAT problem went away. Also, I bought a good fuel gauge, put it in line with the rail, and saw correct pressure spike, excellent cranking pressure and 40 psi on idle (high frequency flutter with fuel injectors), with the pressure holding even overnight when engine off. Interestingly, the fuel pressure is always solid and in specs even during a long-cranking failure- no hint of any fuel issues. Note that I have a new fuel pump, filter, mass sensor, idle control valve, spark plugs a month ago, coils a year ago, O2 and cats a year or so ago. I now have NO error codes, no check engine light, and the car runs superbly EXCEPT for the starting and especially when at temp. Again, if we focus on electrical I would note that often during the long crank the car is trying to run fast, i.e. about 50% crank and 50% running. Flooring the pedal before, during or after makes no difference. I read on line about ignition switch problems, but am loathe to go change it without better data. What do you think? The long cranking is so bad that I have to re-charge the battery at night and occasionally will not get it in the 12 or so cranks before battery depletion. Well, now that the cabernet sauvignon is taking effect, let me share a spooky observation with you. Nearly every time that I think that I have found the problem (e.g. fuel relay, bad fuel hose, bad connectors) and make a change, the cranking is fine for about a week during which I feel like I have the upper hand, and then, about a week later, it reverts back to its old ways.... As the scientist who insisted that the thermos flask was the greatest invention because it worked hot OR cold, I would repeat his words: "But how does it know?"