Greetings, I am Dr. Pat. I have worked with birds for many years. I will do my best to help you.

I have seen these on a number of starlings and mynahs, and they turned out to be from different causes. From cancer to poor nutrition, injury, infection, kidney failure, and other problems. It is very frustrating because widely different diseases can look the same on the feet and legs.

They often are painful and fragile regardless of cause.

Unfortunately it is a game of ruling out possibilities rather than diagnosing something. So a basic health screen is absolutely necessary first, and treatment can be planned accordingly. Very important to have proper nutrition. A pelleted-based diet first, and proper mealworms. Mealworms should be maintained on high quality bird pellets (harrison's or TOP) with fresh greens everyday and substrate cleaned as needed. If you feed them on the junk they come in from the mealworm supplier your bird will derive NO nutrition.

In addition, Mynahs should be fed low-iron diet (Harrison's and TOP or check mazuri.com for mynah/toucan diets) as iron-storage disease can result in foot lesions as well as other life-threating problems. Here is an excellent data base to check iron content of common foods:
http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/list#

If you feel comfortable with it, examine the bird thoroughly, using gentle restraint via washcloth or hand towel: do not restrict the chest or hold around the body. Check the mouth and beak if possible, having a good look in there for mucus, redness, masses or anything else unusual. Palpate the tummy for pain, fluid, lumps or anything else. Check all the joints for swelling, pain, and mobility. The abdomen is often distended with iron storage disease.

Move the bird to an aquarium, box or carrier with soft towels in the bottom, no perch, and food and water in low bowls that can be reached easily. Put the whole thing on a heating pad on low or medium. Check it frequently, no overheating allowed! Keep the unit partially covered, warm and quiet. White paper towels or white cloth towels will show the true color of the droppings.

Pet/feed store medications and home remedies are harmful, ineffective, immuno-suppressive, and make them much worse and may interfere with the veterinarian's diagnosis and treatment. Do not use them.

I know it is expensive, but you may not have many home options, because the first thing you need a vet for is to find out what is going on. Treatment is only as good as the diagnosis. If you call around, you may find a vet to work within your means. We certainly try to do our best in my clinic.

You need to to take your bird to see an avian-experienced veterinarian ASAP for complete examination, diagnosis and appropriate treatment. Check
http://www.aav.org/association/index.php?content=activeMembersList
for members of AAV in your area or call your regular vet and see who they recommend; ask if they really have worked with birds a lot.

If this were my patient, I would start with complete fecal analysis and direct smear, for multiple parasites; bacterial culture and sensitivity of the feces and choana. Depending on the case I might do a fungal culture. Routine blood work is necessary to rule out other issues such as kidney and liver values, calcium levels, iron levels. Avian-specific labs can do a Mynah Profile. Generally I start them out on antibiotics as indicated by the tests and any other treatments as necessitated by lab results.

Your bird may need injectable fluids, calcium, antibiotics and many other medications. Act quickly and good luck.


The following guidelines help with basic issues such as nutrition, obesity, good immune status. Surprising how the following can make a bird healthy, and how infrequently birds are ill if they are on the following regimen. No amount of medicine is going to work if the birds' basic needs are not met.

Birds should be on a high-quality, preferably prescription, pelleted diet: I prefer High-potency Harrison's
http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/products/harrisons.html

TOP
http://totallyorganics.com/t-pellets.php

In addition, they should be offered dark leafy greens, cooked sweet potatoes, yams, squash, pumpkin; entire (tops and bottoms) fresh carrots and so forth. No seeds (and that means a mix, or millet, or sprays, etc. etc.) and only healthy, low-fat high fiber people food. A dietary change should be closely monitored and supervised by your avian vet.

Daily Maintenance

Birds should get 12-14 hours dark, quiet, uninterrupted sleep at night. Any less and they can suffer from sleep deprivation and associated illnesses. They should be covered or their cage placed in a dark room that is not used after they go to bed.

The cage material should be cleaned everyday, and twice a day if the bird is really messy. Paper towels, newspaper, bath towels are ok. Never use corn cob, sawdust, wood chips, or walnut shell.
Food and water dishes should be cleaned and changed daily. Keep one set cleaned while the other is in use.

Fresh, perishable food should be placed in separate food bowls. Remove fresh food from the cage after a couple of hours to avoid spoilage.

Change cage papers daily, and clean the grate and tray weekly.

Clean food debris or droppings from toys and perches as needed (which can be as often as once a day).

Grit is not necessary for birds, and will cause digestive problems and death. The best sources of minerals (and vitamins) are leafy greens. Never give grit, gravel sandpaper or cement perches. A bird will eat those to excess when it is not feeling well or if there is a nutritional deficiency. They do not need it at all (an old myth from the poultry days, even poultry do not need it). It can cause an impaction and lead to serious or fatal consequences.