my parakeet is one of four in a large cage, and I noticed today that one of them does not look well, so upon picking him up ,I noticed he is not using his left claw. He sits with it limp and doesn't move it at all. Is there anything I can do for him, like splint it . the claw is cool to the touch, though and I just noticed it today. He did not look like that yesterday. What, if anything, can I do? We don't have any bird vets near by, so please answer back soon! thank you in advance.
Type of Animal: PARRAKEET
Pet's Gender: MALE
Pet's Age: TWO YEARS OLD
Name of Bird: CARL
I HAVE HELD IT TO SEE WHAT WAS WRONG AND HE LOOKS SO ILL AND THE OTHER THREE BIRDS DO NOT GO NEAR HIM. SO I'M WORRIED.
Greetings, I am Dr. Pat. I have worked with birds for many years. I will do my best to help you.Two possibilities that are most likely: trauma, and tumor. This is most likely trauma because he is young and he feels bad. Tumors in the abdomen cause leg paralysis but the bird is not uncomfortable.DO NOT attempt to splint it. If he has spinal, hip, pelvic or leg trauma you will make it much worse. He needs bed rest to heal; if it is a fracture it will take a couple weeks but he should start feeling better quickly. I would worry that something else made him weak or have a seizure to induce a trauma.If you feel comfortable with it, examine the bird thoroughly, using gentle restraint via washcloth or hand towel: do not restrict the chest or hold around the body. Check the mouth and beak if possible, having a good look in there for mucus, redness, masses or anything else unusual. Palpate the tummy for pain, fluid, lumps or anything else. Check all the joints for swelling, pain, and mobility. Part the feathers and look carefully for bruises, especially on the leg.Move the bird to an aquarium, box or carrier with soft towels in the bottom, no perch, and food and water in low bowls that can be reached easily. Put the whole thing on a heating pad on low or medium. Check it frequently, no overheating allowed! Keep the unit partially covered, warm and quiet. White paper towels or white cloth towels will show the true color of the droppings. Do not try to force food or water. You can offer warm cooked rice, pancakes, cornbread, grapes, melon, greens in addition to normal food. Transport as soon as possible.Pet/feed store medications and home remedies are harmful, ineffective, immuno-suppressive, and make them much worse and may interfere with the veterinarian's diagnosis and treatment. Do not use them. I know it is expensive, but you may not have many home options, because the first thing you need a vet for is to find out what is going on. Treatment is only as good as the diagnosis. If you call around, you may find a vet to work within your means. We certainly try to do our best in my clinic.You need to to take your bird to see an avian-experienced veterinarian ASAP for complete examination, diagnosis and appropriate treatment. Check http://www.aav.org/association/index.php?content=activeMembersList for members of AAV in your area or call your regular vet and see who they recommend; ask if they really have worked with birds a lot. If this were my patient, I would start with complete fecal analysis and direct smear, for multiple parasites; bacterial culture and sensitivity of the feces and choana. Depending on the case I might do a fungal culture. Routine blood work is necessary to rule out other issues. Generally I start them out on antibiotics as indicated by the tests. Your bird may need injectable fluids, calcium, antibiotics and many other medications. Act quickly and good luck.The following guidelines help with basic issues such as nutrition, obesity, good immune status. Surprising how the following can make a bird healthy, and how infrequently birds are ill if they are on the following regimen. No amount of medicine is going to work if the birds' basic needs are not met.Birds should be on a high-quality, preferably prescription, pelleted diet: I prefer High-potency Harrison's http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/products/harrisons.html TOPhttp://totallyorganics.com/t-pellets.php In addition, they should be offered dark leafy greens, cooked sweet potatoes, yams, squash, pumpkin; entire (tops and bottoms) fresh carrots and so forth. No seeds (and that means a mix, or millet, or sprays, etc. etc.) and only healthy, low-fat high fiber people food. A dietary change should be closely monitored and supervised by your avian vet. Birds should get 12-14 hours dark, quiet, uninterrupted sleep at night. Any less and they can suffer from sleep deprivation and associated illnesses. They should be covered or their cage placed in a dark room that is not used after they go to bed. The cage material should be cleaned everyday, and twice a day if the bird is really messy. Paper towels, newspaper, bath towels are ok. Never use corn cob, sawdust, wood chips, or walnut shell. Daily Maintenance Food and water dishes should be cleaned and changed daily. Keep one set cleaned while the other is in use. Fresh, perishable food should be placed in separate food bowls. Remove fresh food from the cage after a couple of hours to avoid spoilage.Change cage papers daily, and clean the grate and tray weekly. Clean food debris or droppings from toys and perches as needed (which can be as often as once a day). Grit is not necessary for birds, and will cause digestive problems and death. The best sources of minerals (and vitamins) are leafy greens. Never give grit, gravel sandpaper or cement perches. A bird will eat those to excess when it is not feeling well or if there is a nutritional deficiency. They do not need it at all (an old myth from the poultry days, even poultry do not need it). It can cause an impaction and lead to serious or fatal consequences.
25+ years working primarily or exclusively with birds