The central locking on my AU II falcon will not lock. The cabin light remains on and the door ajar indicator on the dash is on sometimes but not always. Pressing the remote lock button causes the indicators and horn to sound like a door is still open although they are all firmly closed. With all doors closed, operating the right blinkers causes the cabin light to turn on and off in the opposite state to the blinkers. It does not happen with the left hand blinkers. The battery voltage is sitting at 14.54Volts with the engine running and sitting above 12volts with it stopped and only dropped to 10.7Volts when starting the engine.
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A few questions. Does it show which door is ajar? Is this a factory alarm or an after market fit option? It sounds like either a door open switch has failed or the after market alarm has failed. -Colin-
I had already suspected it was a faulty door lock switch because that was the way the car was responding to any attempt to lock it. The sychronised cabin light flashing with the right hand indicator had me concerned that a more serious fault may have been involved.
The Car is a standard 75th anniversay Futura with no aftermarket alarm fitted and the door ajar symbol on the dash is generic, it does not provide individual door ajar indications. Where and how can I check with a multimeter which door lock is not indicating a closed position correctly?
I am going to let someone that has access to the wiring diagram for this car. Best of luck!
I hope there Is a way to check the electrical status of each door lock individually because really don't want to have top pull the interior lining from all 4 doors to expose the locks and check each one if I can possibly avoid it. At worst case I hope there is a loop through only two doors at a time (front & rear) or (left & right), but I still need to know which pin contacts on which connector and I am hoping either a voltage check or continuity check.
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I am waiting for the professional with the "right expertise" as you described it to contact me or provide an answer to my previous question about where and how to test the door contact switches to find the faulty one.
My name is Martyn
I own an Au series 2 which has the same door locks.
I have read through the messages so far.
If the door locks aren't locking at all then the faulty door lock is the drivers one. It's the master switch. If that one doesn't lock then none of them will.
If it is any of the others then that door won't lock and just buzz.
These locks are notorious for breaking. There is a plastic cog inside which breaks the spiral shaft it is part of. If that is broken then the lock doesn't activate and the rest usually won't lock either.
You can get a new lock easily enough on ebay here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-AU-FALCON-RIGHT-FRONT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-/251006001972?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a711fa334
There are door lock repair kits available but I have replaced all four door locks on my Au now and just used the upgraded locks.
We believe we may have worked out that the rear drivers side passenger door lock may be causing the problem. I noticed that it appeared to be a bit slow to unlock when the car was unlocked with the remote (that is all I ever use) after it started working again.
The car has been locking properly for the last couple of days without any problems and we have deliberately not touched that door at all in that time. The operation of the drivers door lock button looks and feels perfectly good and the way the car acted with the fault present by sounding the horn and flashing the blinkers is exactly what happens if any other door is not closed if you try to lock it. Does this sound sensible to you, or do you still believe it is the drivers door lock?
Okay the faulty door will be really slow or nothing at all.
It should only fail to lock that door though.
If all of them fail to lock its the drivers door.
As you are aware I am sure if you only blip the remote only the drivers door should unlock.
From these extra symptoms it sounds like the rear door indeed -weirdly that was the first to go on my series 3 . Its also cheaper than the front door too.
If you fancy a bit of minor disassembly you can buy the new worm gear for the lock.
It is a lot cheaper than the whole lock.
Sounds like the way to go then. Replacing the worm gear shouldn't be a great issue as long as I can get one. Is it best via eBay or a Ford only part? I have never seen one in the flesh to know what is attached as part of the lock so there any possibility it is an electrical switch contact issue in the lock, or is it going to be purely mechanical with the worm gear?
Its a worm shaft that snaps.
I will see if I can find one online in the morning for you.
Advanced trade certificate in Automotive engineering