Hello and Welcome! I'm Billy and i will assist you with your inquiry. Feel free to ask if any further info is needed.
First you need to remove the trim panel under the dashboard, over the footwell, to gain access to the relay plate.
Having done that, make sure that the fuse and relay plates are securely and firmly fixed on the dashboard (on the bracket).
And if that is the case, you need to check the relays, make sure all are tightly and firmly seated.
Having done that, and if the problem persists, then you need to drive the vehicle with the trim cover removed, and have someon touch the relays one by one, to figure out which one is causing the clicking, and then replace as necessary.
Before replacing, you can remove, spray some contact cleaner, and refit.
Thank you for your trust! Get back to me if you need more info...Thank you in advance for the positive rating...http://www.justanswer.com/car/expert-billy/
Thanks for the response. That sounds like a plan. I have a few questions though. When I first bought the car I noticed some vacuum lines/fittings that were cracked in the engine compartment and thought that this may have been part of the problem and was causing the vacuum pump relay to "chatter" when the engine was under load as it continues to drop vacuum. Is it possible that I still may have some lines that are leaking causing this issue? I did check to make sure I put all check valves back in the proper way and lines are connected. What should the proper vacuum be in this system in inHg? I know it should fluctuate but at an idle and WOT what should I be seeing. Thanks for the help.
It is always possible to have vacuum lines causing this, so these need double checking.
The vacuum in the intake manifold on a non turbo engine varies between 0.2 bar (around 150 mm Hg) at idle and increases till around 0.9 bar (675 mm Hg) at WOT.