Audi Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
I have a 2006 Audi A4 B7 with the 2.0 motor and tiptronic transmission. I was driving down the highway and my car shut off and flashed a "oil pressure light" as well as "PRNDS" where it normally shows what gear it is in. The engine will crank but wont start. The oil level was over the "max" line on the dipstick. I then tried to scan for codes and received a network error when trying to do the scan. I looked at the fuses and the fuse for the EMU was blown, I replaced it and as soon as it I turned the ignition on it blew again. I am unsure of where to start with issue but could the engine oil being over capacity cause that series of events?
Too add: I removed the throttle body and the IAT sensor on the throttle body was coated in oil as well.
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Unlikely engine oil being over full caused the fuse to blow, but something has shorted out causing that fuse to pop. I am looking for wiring diagrams for your vehicle do you know what fuse number spot the fuse was in.
The oil pressure light is most likely caused from sludging, this is common on that engine.
Need to flush the engine and see if that gets the oil pressure up.
First need to find what is causing that fuse to blow. second thing would be to flush the engine. I prefer using transmission fluid to flush. and always replace the oil filter when done.
I thought the 1.8t engines were the ones with the sludge issue not the 2.0t engine in the b7 model, I may be incorrect though. Something I forgot to include was that when I got home I noticed there was oil coming from the bolts holding the valve cover on. I pulled the coil packs out and put the fuse back in and it actually didnt blow after that, but I also unhooked other wiring harnesses to pull the throttle body.
Any turbo engine can sludge, the 1.8 did sludge more often but I have seen many 2.0t that sludged really badly.
If your getting that much oil coming out, the breather system has failed, from excess engine oil
Did you recently have a oil change
Usually the breather on the top of the engine will fail or the valve cover gasket will fail if the oil level is over full.
With the size of turbo, and the size of the oil pump, even when having the vehicle serviced regularly sludging is possible.
Even the best synthetic engine oil can't with stand the heat a turbo generates when at higher rpms, consistent flow of oil is what keeps the oil from evaporating or becoming sludge.
with excess engine oil the crankshaft is slopping it around everytime it swings around, this can cause the oil pump to suck air, not oil, cause all the oil is thrown every where.
If this happens the oil going to the turbo will burn up and stick, do to lack of flow.
If this happens enough over a long period of time, you can restrict the oil passages to the turbo causing more sludging to occur.
I dont know if my last response posted. But the car does not have the PCV system anymore it was replaced by an Oil Catch can. I did recently change the oil and only put in as much as recommended by the service manual, the only thing is that I use an oil extractor through the dipstick so it may not have gotten all of the old oil out. I drove it like this for 4-500 miles before it shut off.
What I think and am hoping happened was that the valve gasket went bad and oil got on the coil packs causing the short. My main concern though is if any other problems could arise from it being overfilled. The car has 130k miles on it and has never had any issues until now.
Is it safe to clean up the leaked oil, replace the valve gasket and replace the coil packs and try to start the car or is it something you would recommend I take to a service shop to see if there was any serious damage caused to the engine.
With the sludge issue is that something that I can perform or is it something recommended to have done at a shop as well. I am fairly knowledgeable with cars and havent had a maintenance issue before until now but I have never flushed an oil system before.
To be on the safe side use brake Kleen CRC brand to clean up the oil
Replace the valve cover gasket, (very easy to do) while doing so remove all the plugs and make sure they are clean, if there are deposits on them use some sand paper to clean them up.
The sludge issue is a simple issue to confront, Use transmission fluid to clean the engine
Drain engine oil
Pour 4 quarts of transmission fluid (dexron III this was basic trans fluid for GM vehicles for years available at all auto parts stores) into engine allow to run for 5 mins at idle
Do not under any reason press on the gas pedal
its a good idea to replace the oil filter before you do this but not required
drain the transmission fluid
replace oil filter (I prefer mann oil filter, mahle, or Full) these can be bought off the internet
fill with synthetic engine oil (I prefer mobile 1 or Valvoline but as long as its a full synthetic its fine)
Once engine is back together and full of fluid start engine allow to idle for 5 mins, then turn the engine off, wait 2mins, then check engine oil.
If you use any oil thicker than a 5w30 oil can get held up at the top of the motor and take forever to drain down,
something like a 5w40 would be great for the engine but if the temp outside is over 70degrees its to thick, and when the temp goes up, and the engine gets warm it will flow like water.
you should not have to replace the coil packs, just clean them with brake kleen very well and allow to dry
skip the coil packs, and buy a bottle of anerobic sealant from the parts store,
on the corners of the valve cover add a small amount
this will help the gasket last longer and resist popping like it sounds like it has done