Hello, I'm Jason. I will do my best to answer your question quickly and accurately using the information you have provided.
This one is going to be all but impossible if you don't have the cam locking jaws. There is no way to set cams properly without them.
In addition, the reset socket for the cam advancers is necessary to do this job right
The reason I say this is that, if any of the cams are mistimed, even by 1-2 degrees, you will absolutely get a check engine light at best...
or a full bank of misfires, or at worst, valve to piston collisions
There is a way to start from scratch to be able to rotate the crankshaft to a specific point so none of the pistons are at TDC
this is so that you can rotate the cams freely in order to set valve timing
I'll hold the chat open for a little while to see if you can access it
I'll hold for a bit while you read through. believe me, I can't stand giving bad news, but I have to be 100% accurate with my answers as well
So what is my best route to get the proper tools. Audi dealer or a Mac or Snap On Tool rep.]? Do you know of a large chain auto parts store that would supply these?
I usually get my Euro tools from Baum down in Florida, but they're kind of pricey. Let me do a bit of searching. You can actually get by ok without the crankshaft pin.
And thanks for understanding, and not blasting me for the information given so far
Not sure about the chain parts store possibility though, as I've never needed to make that call
I'm in Metro Chicago so my choices should be pretty broad. I will check online. Do you have the PN for the tools to assist my search.?
Ok, I actually found a set for pretty good money, since I paid about $400 for my set
about $150 with shipping
What are the green & yellow dots on the cam gear housing for?
There shouldn't be any dots anywhere, unless a previous mechanic put them there
The only physical markings are on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover
Also, in that Amazon description, the individual tool numbers are listed
I do have a photo of the cam gear positions, prior to taking the belt off. Im not sure at what position the crank shaft was at though. I remember I only turned the crank about 90 degrees max in order to bring #1 to TDC.
Well, that might not be the case. Are you sure you brought #1 to TDC, or did you just line up the crank pulley with the mark on the timing cover?
unfortunately, just looking at cam sprockets won't help, since there are no marks. if you had the valve covers off, I might figure out how close you are
I pulled the spark plug & brought piston to top of stroke. I then tried to blow air into the cylinder to confirm valve position.
Valve covers are off
ok, that makes things tougher, since the timing position on the crank pulley and cover actually brings #3 to TDC
this is really going to take some light stepping to make sure you don't bend valves
Ok you are hinting (but not recommending) towards putting crankshaft in a position that will allow cam gears to turn without contacting valves?
I am.....let me try to explain this.....
Ok, let's say you never took the belt off, and had the crank pulley set to its marks
If you then rotated the crank 45 degrees CCW, all pistons would be out of harm
then you could do whatever you wanted with the cams
OK, right now the crank pulley mark is straight down at 6 o'clock
ok, so 180 out
but the thing is that it will be difficult to bring it to the....well, I guess we'll call it the 10:30 position
without hitting valves
"180 out" which cylinder are you referring to. # XXXXX I'm guessing. if not, Im not following you
well, let's say the crank is on the timing mark. That mark is at about the 12:00 position, right?
still with me?
The crank pulley mark we are seeing is a small blue dot. The mark on the housing is an unmistakable arrow. Should I be searching for a more permanent mark on the crank pulley?
Yeah, not a dot at all. It's a thinly scribed line on the inner circumference of the pulley
again, no dots at all on this engine
My bad. Blue dot & etched mark are in same location
And we're talking about the serpentine pulley, not the crank sprocket, right?
just want to make sure we're on the same page
yes serp pulley
ok, good. So, if the marks are perfectly lined up, it's the #3 piston that is at TDC
got that so far?
Considering the firing order is 1 4 3 6 2 5, if that mark is at the 6:00 position, that means the #5 piston is now at or near TDC
yeah. The $60,000 question is how do I get the crank there without doing any damage?
well, that's a situation I've never found myself in (no offense intended at all), so I'm trying to work out a way to get there
hence the step lightly comment earlier
there is literally only 2 ways of doing this, and only one that will ensure, 100%, no valve damage
the first way is to work the crankshaft around very slowly, if you feel any resistance, stop.
Gotcha, I am measuring 7" on the nut from top of cylinder to top of cam housing. Does that dimension mean anything to you?
have the spark plugs out, and valve covers off.
All plugs out & covers off
Use a screwdriver in the plug holes to figure out where the pistons are....
pay attention to cam lobes
rotate cams so that the "up" pistons also have "up" loves
does that make sense?
OK we have two sets of eyes so that should make it easier.
ok, good. Now, ready for the 100% no-damage method?
and then I do need to sign off, but will be back on in about an hour
Ok we are both assuming that # XXXXX is at TDC or very close. Checking lobes now
Remove the upper cam housings, so that the cams pop out of their bearings, and all valves are closed
but you'll need the Audi sealant to seal them back up
I really do need to sign off for a bit here
(8) torx shcs each?
Ok assume that step is complete. Then what
More like 26 torx for the cam cages per head
T30's I believe
1st time I used Just answer. Tell me what the procedures are.
I'm sorry, but which exact procedure, meaning the rest of the procedures to set up timing on this engine?
No, Just Answer rules or guidelines. I have an annual unlimited answer subscription . But this is a little beyond what I was expecting. for
Oh that....ok, that will be tough for me, as I just do the tough car questions. I'd have to have you contact customer service for site-specific rules and policies
As for the engine. We are 99% sure all valves are closed on both sides. Cranks is turning with little resistance. John (my hlpr is ahead of both of us)
Hard to think of a scenario where all of the valves can be closed
Cranks is at #3 TDC. Want a pic emailed to you
Or I can TM it to you
That would be fine, or just post it up here, but as I mentioned, I absolutely have to sign off now, or I'm going to have some pretty disappointed people at home in very short order
usually these chats are about 10-15 minutes
but I do like to make sure all information is given and you're happy with the information
So I can open it back up in an hour or thereabouts
understand completely, yes all info and help was great. feel free to follow up later or let me know where to send results to. Whatever the norm is.
Have a good evening & Thank you
no problem and thank you. I'll keep the chat open though, if you'll be on in an hour
yeah will still be here and wont touch a thing
don't rate yet, ok?
if so, chat closes, and we'd have to start a new session
ok, til later
and I'm back on
Now, when we left this, you mentioned that #3 is at TDC?
So, the marks are lined up, and no collisions?
yes, we believe the valves are close to be being closed on all cylinders and we rotated the crankshaft. However my hlpr had to leave so now Im contemplating just ordering the tools. If I remember correctly we needed the tools anyway to complete the job, yes?
absolutely, positively need the tools. I can assure you without a shadow of a doubt that without them, you will have a forever check engine light related to 1 or more cam position sensors
I do trusts you're using all new parts? Belt, rollers, tensioner, cam sprocket caps, and so on?
so best thing now is to just close out session & resume another when tools arrive. How do I go about insuring I reach you when we resume the procedure.
yep, that sounds like a plan. I'll give you my direct link. There is a question box on that page. I'm alerted via my phone when you post there.
yes, rollers & tensioners seem fine. Still nice & tight. The time belt & water pump were replaced only because I was changing out thermostat in order to get heat back in the vehicle. With 118K on it why not do it all at once. I was contemplating replacing alternator also.
with 118k on it, if the belt job has never been done, replace all rollers and hydraulic damper.
Also, the heat problem is likely due to a partially clogged heater core
I blew out heater core a week ago. 1st symptom was no heat at all after several minutes of commuter driving. Temp guage reading normal. After I blew out heater core then the engine was overheating within minutes of driving. Next thing was thermostat.
Hmmmm....we'll touch on this if it's still a problem after the thermostat. They usually fail in the open position (thermostat).
Thats when I decided to just do water pump & timing belt
yeah, I usually recommend 75k intervals due to the tightness of the belt stressing out the water pump....
OK I will contact you directly when I get parts
sounds good. Take care