yep, they all have 1.8 turbos, but there are two different versions, the 180hp, with a single tailpipe, and the 225 with dual exhaust
it is a 01 quattro, AWD, 225hp. Secondary fuel pump is working, has just shy of 1/2 tank of fuel. I have the factory manual and suspect the problem is within the emergency fuel shutdown or the ECM. There is no power getting to the fuel pump. Also appears that the ECM relay under the hood is also not getting power as the relay is not moving in response to the key, but when I moved the relay to secondary air position in bus, it moved in response to the key. Have not checked the injectors yet or done a fuel pressure check yet as the fuel pump no worky. OK lite on the trouble panel, no MIL's, but have not yet had a code dump on it. Continuity checks on the fuel pump, and the pump ran with a 12V, 15AMP jumper. When I disconnect the harness from the primary pump, I get the fuel warning lite on the trouble panel.
Very thorough, thank you. Do you also have power on the 30 terminal, panel side of the relay? Also, plesae check that fuse 13 has power to it, key off. I know these seem like simplistic questions, but I just need to cover every base before getting into more complex questions. I'm sure we've all been through tech support calls related to internet outtages, where the support person asks if your modem is plugged in.
However, don't worry, we'll get to the bottom of this.
13 has no power
30 has 12.4, same as battery.
Very odd that you're getting power one spot and not the other, and here's why:
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That 30 terminal is a common supply. Either you've got a problem behind your relay panel, or.....and this wouldn't make any sense, but please check all of the fuse strips on top of the battery. 2 of them supply power to the 30 terminal
Now, I need you to check this thoroughly, since I've seen a lot of these fuse blocks melt internally. So, while the fuse strip still looks good, power isn't being transferred out through the large red wires. Or if it is, there's enough resistance inside the partially melted fuse block to keep "enough" amperage from going through the circuit. Since you're not seeing a voltage drop from true battery voltage to the 30 terminal. I'm curious if voltage is dropping off while the relay is trying to energize.
Does your meter go to 100ths of a volt? I'm still suspecting a break or voltage drop somewhere between S132/S134 and the fuse panel. I'm using fuse 13 as a test to determine when that 30 circuit is powered at the fuse panel and relay panel. If you can set your meter to 100ths of a volt (12.xx), please attach your negative lead to the negative post of the battery, and check one of the fuse strips with positive. Take note of that number. Then move the positive meter lead to the 30 threaded stud under the dash. Let me know what both numbers are.
As I mentioned before, the fuse strips can show power on both sides of the strip, but still not have continuity through the plastic fuse panel there, and going out through the large red wires, and to the panels inside the car.
12.27 between battery and fusible link
12.27 between 30 threaded stud and ground
Strange to me as well. Would think there would be some voltage drop. Used both of my meters and both gave the same numbers.
Voltage on #10 fuse, 10.66. Battery at 12.27. Steep drop.
This is my son's car. He is running around mountains of Afghan and shipped the car to me inop to try to get it running. I just got more info out of him. He and his buddies chipped the car, and they put an aftermarket adjustable Mass Airflow Sensor on it. They did not chop into any wiring, but...My kid ran the car over the factory settings of 130 MPH which may have engaged the fuel kill which is how the car protects itself from a dumba## XXXXX my kid trying to blow it up. According to manual, the car has a 130 MPH kill system in it which shuts down fuel. Wonder if the aftermarket chip bypassed some of this system, but another part of it is engaged? Car died on him in traffic a couple weeks after his high speed run. Can find no mention anywhere on the nuts/bolts of this system, but with the voltage all over the place, no obvious damage or broken wires, gotta be a computer or sensor somewhere that is unhappy. Any way to get some info on this? Audi dealer here in Phoenix are horse's patooeys.
Well, I do a lot of go-fast aftermarket stuff on Audis, but if the software/chip is one of the reputable ones (GIAC/APR/O.CT), then that's not going to have any effect at all on regular, everyday drivability. Yes, the stock car/ECU does have a fuel cut, but that is very temporary, meaning it kicks in at that preprogrammed speed, and once you drop under it, injectors are firing again. Most chip tuners do tune out this limiter.
The aftermarket adjustable MAF is a new one to me. I do a lot of Audi performance work and have never even heard of that.
So, the eye opener is that massive voltage drop to #10. Have you pulled the rear covers off of either the relay or fuse panel?