Hello, how did you check the coils. They are very common misfire problem on the 1.8t engine in the A4. The fuel pump seems to be operating normally. Has it started since you replaced the battery or is it still not starting? Thanks, Josh.
Also, what is your VIN number? Thanks again, Josh.
no it has not started. i replaced a couple just for fun. but no change.
vin # XXXXX
How I checked was when it was running I pulled one at a time seeing if it made a differance. I replaced one coil about a month ago and bought a new one just in case. I put it in also. The check eng. lite was flashing my Girlfriend said I didn't see it. She didn't count the flashes. The timing belt was changed about 10,ooo miles ago and the car has 61 k miles on it now.
Okay. Let me do a little research. It could still be the other two coils (I have personally seen one coil cause a no start and not seem to test bad). I also need to check Service Bulletins, there are a few relating to your concern. I will try to get back to you later on today with a direction we can take. Thank you for your patience, Josh.
Is there any way you can get the DTC's from the Engine Computer? If you don't have a code reader, most "chain" parts stores will check your codes for free. If you can get these codes that would be a lot of help. Thanks again, Josh.
Hello, after doing some research, we are going to need the codes from the computer. You may have to purchase a code reader from the parts store or even online. Look for one that can do global ODB2 codes. Let me know how this goes. Thank you, Josh.
Thanks josh I just got a code of 444 but will try back later. I also checked and there is spark at all cylinders and pulled plugs...2 wet; 2 dry? They should all be the same if we have good spark...right?
Hello, Thanks for the update. Is that code P0444? Yes I would think that they should all either be wet or dry, but not some of each. This is another clue in the puzzle. As far as the codes go, if your using a code reader we are looking for codes that start with a P and have 4 digits after that. Thanks again, Josh.
Ok the 444 code came up because I unpluged the canister and tried to start the car. The good news is The car started and ran for almost 10 seconds last night. it ran rough but it only did that once. I also pulled the coils and grounded each one the check for spark. All had spark. Could it be possable the 2 wet cyl are Not getting a Good Spark?
Hello. It could be that the two wet cylinders are the two that are misfiring, and that could be due to a bad spark, but it could also be some other things. Which 2 cylinders were wet and do we have misfire codes? Did the car start while the canister was unpluged? Also, check for power to the ignition coils with the key on. Thanks for your patience, we are getting close to having all the pieces to this puzzle. Josh.
Hello. I was also wondering, what is the general condition of the engine bay (fluid leaks, belts, hoses, vacuum hoses, etc...) We do really need to know if there are any other OBD2 DTC's stored in the computer. Thanks again, Josh.
We do not have a misfire code and no it didn't make any differance when I unpluged the canister. The 2 cyl that where wet wher the ones that didnt have new coils funny enough. The code reader I have shows no other codes at this time. I think I'm kind of leaming towards the ECM I was thinking crank sensor but I can hear the fuel pump and from what I've read thats a clue it's ok.
This is the odd thing about this problem. My girlfriend told me she couldn't turn off the A/C the bottons where stuck. She spilled a drink on the consol a few months ago and the bottons would stick. So I took out the control and cleaned it with electronics cleaner. All of the bottons are free now and are working. Is there anything is the area around that area of the dash that could be this problem were having? Thanks Josh
I don't think there is anything near the HVAC controls that would be part of our problem, but i'm not going to rule it out. I'm going to due so research on that. In the mean time, swap the coils around so the 2 "wet" cylinders now have the new coils an dry off all the plugs.. Try starting it again like you have in the past and see if they are still wet, or if the other 2 become the "wet" cylinders. If the "wet" cylinders move with the 2 coils that you haven't replaced, then I believe those 2 coils would be our culprit. Let me know how this goes, Josh.
Well replaced all the plugs and 2 new coils and it started right up and then died 5 seconds later. seams like it was part of the problem. I'm leaning for fuel. Relay or pump. I get fuel to the motor when the key is first turned then stops Normal but not sure if it comes back on or might be just weak and not able to provide correct pressure? don't know alot about Relays.
So just to be clear, now the car has 4 new plugs and 4 new coils?
I missed some of you questions because they went into my spam? Well the belts are in goo shape the only leak is power stearing very slow leak. Nothing is on the ground where the car is parked every night and has been sense she has owned the car 5 years. No codes come up now no check eng. light... So?
Todays a different day. I looked around the car and dicided to take off the intake hose to the motor bypassing mas airflow and the car started. I have to give it gas or not to keep it running but it will run as long as I play with the peddel. Odd! But I'm thinking it's a sensor of somekind. Oh only for a few seconds was the intake line off. it runs either way the same. I also cleaned the mass air again with cleaner. One of these things made a difference. And I kept it running long enough to try and get a code. But all lights are off. Epc and check eng. How long does the car need to run for codes to come up?
Geez, this one is getting interesting. Depending on the code, It could take one or two consecutive drivecycles to set a code, unless its a bad misfire, then it should set fairly quickly. So it started with the MAF disconnected? With MAF disconnected, the ECM doesn't know how much air is coming into the engine, so it can't meter the fuel correctly. That is why with you playing with the throttle it was able to run (you were doing the fuel metering). This is leading more and more towards the fuel system. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge and/ or a multimeter? Don't get discouraged, we are getting closer, Josh.
I don't have a pressure gauge but do have a multimeter. I get a lot of fuel if I disconect the line and turn the key. There is also pressure in the line I get a little squirt when I first undo the line. My girlfriend has been riding her bike to work and has been with out a car for a week now. So it might be getting picked up tomorrow to have someone figure this out. This drive by wire boggels my mind all the sensors it must take to do it.
Ok, well we need to get her back into a vehicle, and if that means someone else needs to look at it, then thats what needs to happen. I'm still surprised that there aren't any codes stored, but it really seems like something in the fuel control system. With the multimeter, turn the key on (engine off) and test for voltage at each injector connector (with them disconnected). Next check each one while someone cranks the engine. The multimeter should fluctuate showing a voltage "pulse" to the injector (this one may work better with a test light). Let me know how this goes. One other test I want to check at this time. Find the engine coolant temp sensor (at the back of the cylinder head in the water outlet housing). With the key on, unplug it and check the temp reading on the dash. Then using a paper clip, jump the terminals in the ECT sensor connector and recheck the dash gauge. Let me know what this test reveals also. Thanks, Josh.
Has this car been taken to the shop? Just wondering how its going? Thanks, Josh.
Hey josh The tow truck driver showed up and asked would you like me to take a look at it? Sure ! He said it sounded like it was not getting enough Air! Wow same conclusion I had. He found a vacum line undone. I saw it near the throtlebody I think? He hooked it up and the motor started right up smooth as a baby's butt. Now it's my turn to take it for a ride tonight. You know Blow out anything that might be in there haha. A code has popped up so we will see.
Well the carruns like a top. Smooth it had just a little jump in RPMs but didn't have any leaks last I checked. But now it runs great. Now hesatation it does have a little noise when you turn I'm thinking thats the CV joint so can live with that But all is good Hvac works great and every thing else to The GF is a happy woman and really happy didn't have to take to a Shop. We got off easy the count is Fuel filter that was never changed, All New coils over the past couple months and plugs and a new Battery. She was in need of everything I just need to get her to take it out on the road and put more then 5 miles a day on the car,
Well thats excellent. Something simple that saves a trip to the shop is always nice. What vacuum line was it? Thanks for getting back to me about it. I would like to know the final conclusion after it is all said and done. Thanks, Josh.
I'm not sure what line it was. I say something that looked like it might of been a line. It had a 90 and I couldn't see anything loose so I knew the truck was picking it up in the morning so I just closed the hood. it runs better then it has in a long time. A code did come up I just haven't check to see if it was a old one or what I will saturday.
Hello, was the line at the back of the intake manifold? Thanks, Josh.
HI josh Here's one for you, We just got back from a little trip in my truck and she went to start the car. It didn't go the first time but did the second. running fine then all of the sudden started running bad almost to the point of dieing then it came back and she went home about a half hour away with no problems no codes the codes the other day were po171 and 300 codes same as before now with the ride home no codes. this thing has a mind of its own. Any idea of why it just started running bad?
Hello, the codes you have indicate a lean random cylinder misfire. The cars ecm could still be relearning itself and causing some erratic condition (normally at the dealer we would "relearn" the computer after repairs you wouldn't have and issues). More than likely though is that there is still another vacuum leak. This vehicle has alot of vacuum lines. There are some under the intake manifold, some running behind the engine some running in front of the engine and a few over near the air filter. Some are very thin while some are about 1/2" thick. If its running ok now, I would take a good amount of time and visually inspect every single vacuum line in the engine bay. Make sure none are cracked or rotted. Otherwise, just drive the car normally to help the computer relearn all of its values. Thanks and let me know how this goes, Josh.