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JOE AUDI
JOE AUDI, MASTER TECHNICIAN
Category: Audi
Satisfied Customers: 551
Experience:  25 PLUS YEARS AS TECHNICIAN, AUDI MASTER TECHNICIAN
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My 2000 Audi A4 Quattro cranks but will not start. Everything

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My 2000 Audi A4 Quattro cranks but will not start. Everything but the radio and cigarette lighter will work when the key is in the on position. I have found forums that mention the coolant sensor and O2 sensors, however, this doesn't sound right to me. Can you help me?
Hi my name isXXXXX most certainly is NOT the coolant sensor and/or the O2 sensor. If the coolant sensor was bad you would have a HARD time starting you car hot. But it would still start. O2 sensor is just a corrector and will not inhibit a car from starting.
So there is something else wrong.
Can you tell me anything about when it began giving you this non-starting problem?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Hi Joe. I am Mike. It just kind of came on, to be honest. The check engine light came on, and my clutch was starting to slip. I parked it for about a week. I went out to start it to take it to my mechanic but the battery was completely drained. I disconnected the battery to charge it using a portable charger. When the battery was fully charged it would crank but wouldn't start. I was thinking maybe it's the anti theft system but I cannot find enough info online to figure it out or test the theory. Hope this helps.
Yes, that is a good place to start. We can't do anything without a good battery. All tests will be INVALID with a poor performing battery. Replace the battery and try to start it again. I believe that you will find that the battery will take care of it. If a battery is shorted or open, internally then it may take a surface charge but not enough to power the car and turn the starter at the same time.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks Joe. That fix seems relatively simple but if I buy a battery and that doesn't fix the problem then I've spent $100 on a new battery and still have an Audi that doesn't run. Would someone that can text batteries be able to charge it and run a load test to see if that's the issue? I even tried jump starting it and that didn't work. I also towed it to Meineke to run a diagnostic on it and their equipment wouldn't scan. I trust your experience and judgement but I have already spent $300.00 towing it around. I just want to know your opinion with this information.
Assuming that you jumped the battery correctly ( cables on the correct terminals), then all the info that you are giving me tells me that the first thing you need to do is replace the battery. At the very least you need a new battery, no matter what else is, or will be, wrong with your car. The first thing Meineke should have done is test your battery. You can remove your battery and have any autoparts store test it for free. Autozone, Pepboys, Advanced Auto...... Remember, all tests are invalid with a poor performing battery. We can't test any system with low voltage and/or low amps.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks for the info, Joe. I tried jumping the battery the correct way. Positive to Positive and negative to negative. Also, positive to positive and negative to ground. I do not accept Meineke as the experts. In my experience, they are usually clods. I was just hoping their equipment would give me a code I could run with. I have one more question regarding the trouble-shooting of my vehicle's issue. Isn't strange that all dash lights, blowers, AC, and everything seems to work accept the radio and cig lighter when the key is in the on position?
Yes....that did strike me as odd. But, in my experience, batteries can cause multitude of problems with the electronics on cars today. Mainly, cars work on specific voltages as messages on what and what not to do. If the voltage reading is off, even by a few volts the modules get confused. Even in cars with no electronic modules, relays will react in very erratic and often unpredictable ways. That is why, when I have a car with a know bad battery, I go no further until it is replaced.
Having said all that. There is a possibility that a fuse or fuses are blown. Only check them by using a test light to check both sides of the fuse. It is most likely that the radio and lighter are coincidence.
JOE AUDI and other Audi Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Hi Joe. I pulled my battery from the A4 and took it to Advance Auto Parts to be charged and tested. They said the battery is good. I stopped by Autozone for a second opinion and they also said the battery was good... Any other suggestions?
Hi Mike, I was just logging off. I am sorry. I need to get my kids to bed. I will get back to first thing tommorrow. If that is not OK. Let someone else help.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Tomorrow is just fine, Joe. Have a good night and thanks.

 

Michael

Hi Mike, sorry about last night, you caught me just as I was signing off.
I would like to continue with you, but I will need you to accept the previous thread.
Joe
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Hi Joe,

If I accept the previous thread do I have to pay again for the next answer? This my first time ever using this system so I am not sure how it works.

Thanks.

Michael
You only pay when you Accept. The way that it works for me is that I only recieve $ from JA when a customer clicks the Accept button.
1) customer asks question
2) expert answers
3) customer either accepts, rejects or never returns.

I will only be paid ( a fraction) of the dollar amount you specified when you click accept. And a larger fraction of a bonus.

I believe the JA rules state that I am not allowed to solicite payment or bonus. But I have answered questions that have been accepted and that customer come back with a follow up in either a new question or added a bonus.
You may want to check the rules on the customer side though.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
So, when I accept will we be cut off until I set up another payment?
No, this thread will still exist and You and I can still work through it.
Or if you perfer, I can opt out (without you accepting) and someone else can help you.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Nah... I will accept. I just didn't know if this would go away once accepted.

Thanks Joe.
Thanks for the bonus!
1) How long did Autozone charge your battery before they tested it? and did you get the read out from them?
2) Did you install the battery and try to start again?
3) Do you have a test light?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Advanced auto had a charger. Full charge was about 45 minutes. They gave me the read out but I am at work and do not have it with me.

I have not reinstalled the battery yet to test it.

I do not have a test light... (I assume this is for testing fuses) I checked the fuses and didn't see any burned filaments.
OK..............write me when you get home. The only sure way to check fuses is with a test light. You can't always see the break (they don't always burn). We are starting with basics so we don't miss something. Good diagnosis is a logical, linear process.
Buy a test light. Only about $15.00 for a good one.
Put the battery in and try it.
Then if it still doesn't start....check the fuses, and then get back to me with the print out.
Joe.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Will do... Thanks Joe.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

I will see about picking up a light tomorrow. I put the battery back. I cranks very strong but will not start. Do you have suggestions of fuses I should try first?

 

I mentioned the 3 high pitched beeps in an earlier question but you have yet to mention it. There is the usual tone that beeps when the key is turned on. It is followed by 3 very high beeps that resemble the one beep warning you get when the wiper fluid or fuel is low.

 

Unfortunately, I can never see it on the diagnostic screen because it requires the car to be started for the display to change.

Customer: replied 7 years ago.

I will see about picking up a light tomorrow. I put the battery back. It cranks very strong but will not start. Do you have suggestions of fuses I should try first?

 

I mentioned the 3 high pitched beeps in an earlier question but you have yet to mention it. There is the usual tone that beeps when the key is turned on. It is followed by 3 very high beeps that resemble the one beep warning you get when the wiper fluid or fuel is low.

 

Unfortunately, I can never see it on the diagnostic screen because it requires the car to be started for the display to change.

Hi Mike, I am online but I need a little time.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
No problem, Joe...
I didn't want to tackle the beeps till we got the battery squared away. That is good news that the battery test good and that it is cranking strong. I will get back to you in about an hour or so.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Ok... I have the print out if you need it.
OK, give me the numbers when you can. The beeps sound like the normal chimes that occur when the key is first turned on.
I think we are missing something though. If I ask you a duplicate question...that is OK, it is not that I forgot, sometimes it jogs our memory of something we overlooked.
We need to move on to the next step.
1) Do we have spark?
2) Do we have fuel?
3) Do we have compression?

The first two you will not need any tools. The 3rd will require a compression tester and a leak down tester. About $300. I don't think you should buy these. There probably will never be a time when you will use them again. You may be able to rent them from a parts store.
As to the fuses. I want you to check all of them with the test light. It will only take an additional 3 mins. and it will rule out the fuses as the potential problem.
I want to re-emphasize that diagnostics is a logical, linear process.
This is going to be very time consuming for you. Mainly, due to the nature of our corrospondense.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

ok.. The compression tester is available at autozone. He said they do not have a leak down tester. Would it have another name? He didn't seem to know anything about it.

 

How do I test for the first 2?

 

Battery results. V - 12.92, Measured - 769 CCA, Rated - 700 CCA, Temp - 73 Degrees

 

The 3 sharp chimes after the initial chimes could be normal but it seems to be new to me.

 

Look forward to hearing from you.

 

Thanks Joe.

Those numbers look OK...although there is some info missing. But I am comfortable with the battery being OK.
There is no other name for a leakdown tester. Basically, what you do is put compressed air into the cylinder and read the amount of air escaping.
As for the first 2 test:
1) To check for spark....We need to remove all the ignition coils and then plug them into there respective wire harness. Lay them on the cam cover (metal) and crank the engine. Just a couple of revolutions should do it. It would also be better if someone else cranked the engine so you can get a good look at the coils sparking. They all should spark blue.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Hi Joe... Sorry it's been awhile since I typed. I had to take a week off of working on the car for other issues. I am ready to jump back in. I have not run the recent tests you told me too, yet. I have the compression tester but have been unable to find a leak down tester.

 

Are you still able to help me out by answering questios?

 

Let me know.

 

Thanks Joe.

 

Michael

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