Need Appliance Repair Help? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
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My name is ***** ***** I have been repairing appliances for over 40 yrs and I will be assisting you tonight in trying to find out why your appliance is not working. Sometimes, there will be lapses in my replies back to your because of the volume of questions I am answering. But, please be assured that I will be giving you my best effort to help solve your problem.Give me a few minutes to check out the info you have provided.Thanks
Is the breaker tripping immediately or do you have to try to start the oven or burners before it trips?
Just to make sure, the breaker will not trip if the oven is unplugged, correct?
If the oven is the problem, the only way to figure out the trouble short of stumbling across the problem is to remove the back to access the controls and start to systematically unplug components and resetting the breaker. Usually you will see a spark on a bad part, unless there is a wire welded to the oven causing the short. Start at the power lead going into the range . If the breaker trips like you said, it should be a wire. Look them all over carefully.
Then start unplugging things one at a time. Don"t get wild and unplug more things than you can keep track of to reassemble.
Ok, then the next thing to do would be to start operating the range one thing at a time, on then off until the breaker trip as again. At that point you will know where to look for the short circuit.
Give me a few minutes to check
You access the clock panel by removing the two little screws located under the bottom edge of the console on each lower corner. Once you get the screws out the console comes forward from the bottom and pivots up like the hood on a car.
Have you been able to isolate the problem that was tripping the breaker?
Sorry, as you type it, I thought the range did not trip the breaker after you plugged it back in, so you are back to what I said before. You need to isolate the issue by unplugging components as I explained before.
Thats why I thought a phone call might be a better option. Then I could tell you what to do.
I did tell you previously how to access the control behind the clock. This is a step by step process. You remove one plug and reset the breaker, if it trips , you put the plug or wire back into place and go on to the next one. Sooner or later you will find that the breaker stays on and that is where your problem is.
It is not your range, but the procedure is the same. Yours will look different.
I said that previously, but typing sometimes is confusing.
Quote from Me previously :
ok good luck
If there is anything else I can help you with today or just an additional question about your issue, just let me know.
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No, usually replacing the clock is a fairly simple job. Normally four screws hold it in and you just swap out the wires. If you have an plastic overlay for the buttons, you can take a pocket knife and slowly peel it off the old clock and stick back on the new one.
The igniter usually last for 5-7 yrs with normal usage. Clocks not very often,
I am sure you appreciate my efforts on your behalf,and all I ask it that you take a few moments to "Accept" my answer and rate my efforts with 3-5 Stars on your screen for
JA before you leave today. You can still come back anytime for a follow up question if you still need help.
OK , I see you have just a mechanical thermostat. I thought you were referring to a electronic thermostat.
You just have two mounting screws to deal with and then you will have to route the capillary tube to the inside of the oven and attach it to the little hanger(s) on the back of the oven wall.
Hopefully the terminals are numbered on the new one. Then just swap the wires one by one from the old to the new.
There should be something on your screen that has the accept button. I
I cant see what your screen looks like.
Did you want to rate my help as positive?
There must be a difference in the wiring on the new t-stat or you have mis-wired something on the new part.
Send me a pic of the of the wires the way you put them on the new one.
You 're back!
I need a photo with the wires attached to the new t-stat
It all looks the same.
If you unplug the yellow wire does the breaker trip?
Do you have a wiring diagram that shows a wider view?
If you unplug the yellow wire and the breaker doesn't trip, you have a problem downstream of the thermostat. The diagram is cut off on your photo. If you can take a wider shot that brings in the whole thing. Also, you should have another diagram that shows another view of the wiring. You should have that on the same page. It is easier to read.
Also, are you waiting for an email to notify you of my responses? If so, if you stay in the chat, it may work faster.
got it let me look it over
does the breaker trip is youremove the yellow wire off the t-stat ?
ok, then you need to go down by the oven valve behind the drawer and unplug the bake igniter and see if the breaker trips. It will have the yellow wires going to it. Hopefully there is a plug on it. If you have replaced it before, you may have wire nuts. If so, unplug the range and remove the wire nuts and separate the wire and test it.
The indicator lamp may come on if the thermostat is set to heat. If the lamp comes on with the oven set to off, you may have a problem with the new thermostat. A short circuit such as what you had with the breaker tripping, can burn the contacts in the new thermostat and keep it on even though it should be off. For now you need to check the igniter to see if it is broken causing the short circuit. The oven igniter should glow.
If the circuit trips with the igniter plugged in, it is shorted out and you need to replace it. You can look at it and you may see a crack or someplace that is arced, but it is easier just to replace it.
Does the lamp go out when you turn the oven to off?
You may have shorted out your new t-stat. But I would get the igniter and at least make sure the oven lights. Then you can go back the t-stat. Maybe your old one still works.