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Whrlp Master Tech
Whrlp Master Tech, Whirlpool Master Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 9224
Experience:  30 years Appliance Field 15 yr with Whirlpool Corp. 9 yrs Whirlpool Technical Assistance Line
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I have a Whirlpool GS475LEMS1 free-standing gas range/oven.

Customer Question

I have a Whirlpool GS475LEMS1 free-standing gas range/oven.
Intermittently when the oven is in use, it will give an error and shut off. The error is either -F3- E0 or -F3- E4. According to the tech sheet, that's an open temp sensor on either the top or the bottom.
I purchased a replacement sensor and replaced the top. I still got the error messages, so I put the old top sensor in and replaced the bottom sensor with the new one. I still have the same problem.. It's not consistent -- sometimes it says the problem is the top sensor and sometimes the bottom. Sometimes the oven works fine and sometimes it doesn't..
I have tested all the sensors and nothing is open.. I get an appropriate (around 1KOhm) reading at room temp..
If I remove the connector from either sensor for a few minutes, the oven detects the open sensor and appropriately gives the error.
The oven maintains the temperature appropriately during cooking.
I have traced all of the wiring, particularly the common (tan) wire and connections to the control unit.. no loose, burned/damaged wires or visibly oxidized connections at the sensor or the board.. My unit has a warming drawer sensor (which is oddly screwed in from the inside and also has the opposite gender connector from the other two sensor). If I disconnect that, I get the -F3- E6 error I expect but I never get the E6 code when the oven fails.
It doesn't seem like it would be a damaged control board since it's definitely reading temperature and works most of the time. Besides that, the cost of a new control board + the replacement sensor + my time is probably beyond the value of the oven which is 10+ years old.. Is there something I'm missing or something else I can try?
Submitted: 7 days ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

My name is Woody.
I will be glad to assist you today.
I have been servicing ALL Major Brands of Appliances for 36 Years, I own my own Appliance repair Company
And I teach appliance repair at a local Community College.
I have over 100,000 plus in home repairs and over 80,000 internet repairs under my belt.
You will be paying me for my ANSWER to your Appliance Question,, Not for the repair of your appliance hence the name of this site Just Answer.
I will do my best to take the information that you provide to me and make a Diagnosis for you to be able to repair your own Appliance.

Do you have a Volt-Ohm meter and know how to use it? to be able to do any component or voltage testing.

If so then you can test the resistance of both sensors they will ohm out at 1080-1100 ohms at room temperature.

Let me know please.

Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

Are you there?

Customer: replied 6 days ago.
I'm here. I sent my note last night and I'm just getting to my e-mails this morning.I do have an Volt-Ohm meter and have tested the components. Not sure if you got a chance to read through the entire question I posted, but this was included: "I have tested all the sensors and nothing is open.. I get an appropriate (around 1KOhm) reading at room temp.."Thanks for your reply. Looking forward to any help you can provide!
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

No your entire post did not come thru on the first posting because it was rather lengthy.

Ok was the reading over 1,000 ohms or less then 1,000 ohms?

Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

And when you tested the sensors are you just testing the senors or are you testing the sensor wire harness back to the control board?

Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

if your just testing the sensor ,let now test the sensor and the harness the upper test on P4-8 violet to the P4-1 tan and for the lower test it at P4-1 tan to the P4-7 brown .

Let me know what you have tested please.

Customer: replied 6 days ago.
Sorry for the long post -- I tried to include a bunch of details to help out. Were you able to get the rest of it and/or do you need to re-send any of it?I did test just the sensors themselves. Close to 1080 ohms at room temperature. Resistance did drop and come back when I put them in the freezer and let them warm up again. I tested both the lower and upper sensor plus I tested the brand new sensor that I bought. I can take new measurements today and give you exact numbers if you want.You also mentioned testing toward the control board. I can do that today -- just wanted to confirm.. Do you want me to test the resistance at the harness connectors where the sensors plug in or do you want me to test the resistance at the pins themselves on the control board? (Resistance between P4-8 and P4-1 for upper) (Resistance between P4-7 and P4-1 for lower)? Let me know and I'll get those measurements.J
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 6 days ago.

you will be testing the harness with the sensor plugged in as usual .

That way you will test the sensor and the wire harness from the control board .

so we can the say if the harness and sensors read the same reading it is not the sensors or the harness but then an other issue.

Yes you are correct on the connections for the readings

Customer: replied 6 days ago.
Okay -- I'm at work now but will take the measurements tonight when I get home and post them. Thx.
Customer: replied 5 days ago.
Hi Woody. Here's what I found when I tested tonight:
Bottom sensor:
Not connected to harness: Reads 1073 Ohms at room temp. 1425 when oven at 200 degrees.
Connected to harness (range not plugged into wall): 866 Ohms
Connected to harness with range plugged in to power: 0 Ohms.Top Sensor:
Not connected to harness: Reads 1074 Ohms at room temp, 1424 Ohms when oven at 200 degrees.
Connected to harness (range not plugged into wall): 950 Ohms
Connected to harness with range plugged in: OL (my digital multi meter reads this on an open circuit)I did some more experimenting.. I operated the oven and heated it to 200 degrees. Worked fine.
1. I removed the bottom sensor.. in 1 minute I get the expected -F3- E4 error. I reconnected the sensor, canceled and restarted the oven to 200 degrees with no problem.
2. I then removed the top sensor. In 1 minute I got the expected -F3- E0 error. I reconnected the sensor, canceled and was able to restart the oven to 200 degrees with no problem.
3. I have operated the oven at various temperatures from 200 - 350 for the past couple hours. It held temperatures like it's supposed to for a while but then failed with -F3- E4. It happens like this.. sometimes the code will be the E0 and sometimes E4.
I felt around and the metal cover over the back of the range is cool to the touch. The heat from the oven venting does create quite bit of heat just under the front of the control panel. This seems normal as the hot air from the oven seems to vent up that way. I wasn't able to get the oven to restart right away but i did get it going again and it's been working for the last 30 minutes..
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 days ago.

Ok Then I do not think that your issue is actually the sensor themselves .

I have to suspect that the issue is actually within the electronic control board /clock assembly.

But the bad part !!

The control board part number(###) ###-####is no longer available from the manufacture .

But there is a good part.

I did fine a place that will take your old control board and rebuild it and they even give you a better warranty then the manufacture did with a new control board .

Here is a link to the site ,I have already put your board info into the site.

http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/4453608.html

And of course if you have any questions just let me know.

Customer: replied 5 days ago.
Up until last night I would have disagreed that the module is broken because the connections are all fine and the system works 95% of the time. My experience with electronics and control boards is that the computer parts either work or they don't. A microprocessor reading a thermistor wouldn't be a part I ever expected to fail..
BUT.. After putting my hands on the front of the clock/keypad part of the control board last night and seeing how hot it gets, I can see the thing expands and contracts a tiny bit every time the oven is used. Do that over and over for 10+ years (that's how old the oven is) and an internal connection in the controller board could certainly break.
I tested my theory by running the oven at 170 degrees for a long time -- no problem. I run it up to 450 degrees and within 20 minutes it seems to fail. Seems like the heat expansion causes the issue.
Do you have experience with the control board refurbishing company you mentioned? I'm wondering what their success rate is and how long I'll have to live without an oven while they fix the control board.
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 days ago.

Yes I use Fixyourboard.com with my own company when the electronic parts are no longer available and I have NEVER had to send one back to them yet.

And I have probably sent 60-70 boards to them in the last few years .

And even the heat can start to corrupt the software also.

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